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significant repeats (Read 4244085 times)

Anti

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#9700 Re: significant repeats
June 10, 2021, 09:27:45 am
Rebekah Drummond has repeated Skye Wall, Dave birketts tasty looking E7 on Skye.

Lattice post says she’s recently had a second child as well as training to be a midwife!

“Newborn on the boob constantly, belly a squishy pile of jelly...”

www.instagram.com/p/CP5viyqowVe

Personally think this is one of the more impressive pieces of climbing news in a while, should overshadow a lot of recent ascents imo!

Duma

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#9701 Re: significant repeats
June 10, 2021, 09:30:36 am
For anyone who wondered whether Empath could be jammed, the answer appears to be yes and it makes it more like 8c+/9a https://www.instagram.com/p/CP6qnd3D3wO/?utm_source=ig_web_copy_link

Cheers - I did wonder this, and indeed about the grade irrespective of jamming, given the speed and number of repeats.

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#9702 Re: significant repeats
June 10, 2021, 09:44:56 am
For anyone who wondered whether Empath could be jammed, the answer appears to be yes and it makes it more like 8c+/9a https://www.instagram.com/p/CP6qnd3D3wO/?utm_source=ig_web_copy_link

Cheers - I did wonder this, and indeed about the grade irrespective of jamming, given the speed and number of repeats.

Vid here of Connor Herson making it look like something on El Cap

https://www.instagram.com/tv/CPzuLoYj8e-/?utm_medium=copy_link

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#9703 Re: significant repeats
June 10, 2021, 09:58:30 am

Vid here of Connor Herson making it look like something on El Cap

https://www.instagram.com/tv/CPzuLoYj8e-/?utm_medium=copy_link

should be done on gear and the bolts cleaned if the jams are that good

Edit - ah just saw Ethan's "100% natural" bit.

SA Chris

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#9704 Re: significant repeats
June 10, 2021, 11:05:15 am
For anyone who wondered whether Empath could be jammed, the answer appears to be yes and it makes it more like 8c+/9a https://www.instagram.com/p/CP6qnd3D3wO/?utm_source=ig_web_copy_link

Note he edited out comment about having PTSD on it after the fall.

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#9705 Re: significant repeats
June 10, 2021, 11:22:32 am

should be done on gear and the bolts cleaned if the jams are that good

Edit - ah just saw Ethan's "100% natural" bit.

In Carlo’s original post about it he noted that the top section was too flared to take any gear.

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#9706 Re: significant repeats
June 10, 2021, 11:35:12 am
ah. fair enough. nice to improve on style, but not worth ptsd...

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#9707 Re: significant repeats
June 11, 2021, 07:09:50 pm
Northern Lights today for Will Bosi and Molly TS flashed Urgent Action.

Strong sending day.

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#9708 Re: significant repeats
June 11, 2021, 09:07:49 pm
Northern Lights today for Will Bosi and Molly TS flashed Urgent Action.

Strong sending day.

And Will was belayed by Ben Moon for the send, great stuff!

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#9709 Re: significant repeats
June 11, 2021, 09:11:21 pm
Two sessions for Will  :o
First UK Female flash of an 8a+ on home turf

What a day

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#9710 Re: significant repeats
June 11, 2021, 09:38:48 pm
Two sessions for Will  :o
First UK Female flash of an 8a+ on home turf

What a day

That was going to be my next question about Will's ascent. Incredible. The grade on Mutation is surely going up on a daily basis!  :lol:

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#9711 Re: significant repeats
June 11, 2021, 09:45:51 pm
Until someone contrives a kneebar rest on Evolution and then Ste Mac never climbed 9a+/9b...  ::)  ::) ::)

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#9712 Re: significant repeats
June 11, 2021, 11:23:30 pm
Was this an official Olympic training trip, or a fun intra training break?!

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#9713 Re: significant repeats
June 12, 2021, 06:51:34 am
Two sessions for Will  :o
First UK Female flash of an 8a+ on home turf

What a day

That was going to be my next question about Will's ascent. Incredible. The grade on Mutation is surely going up on a daily basis!  :lol:

9b in 1998

shark

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#9714 Re: significant repeats
June 12, 2021, 07:36:52 am
Was this an official Olympic training trip, or a fun intra training break?!

Truancy 

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#9715 Re: significant repeats
June 12, 2021, 08:34:11 am
Was this an official Olympic training trip, or a fun intra training break?!

Truancy

Think Tim was asking about Molly and Will not you Shark 😁

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#9716 Re: significant repeats
June 12, 2021, 09:00:32 am
I'd wondered what was on the cards when Will posted a pic walking in to Kilnsey!

Two sessions for Will  :o
First UK Female flash of an 8a+ on home turf

What a day

Have any women, including non Brits, flashed 8a+ in the UK? I can't think of many contenders.

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#9717 Re: significant repeats
June 12, 2021, 11:49:54 am
I'd wondered what was on the cards when Will posted a pic walking in to Kilnsey!

Two sessions for Will  :o
First UK Female flash of an 8a+ on home turf

What a day

Have any women, including non Brits, flashed 8a+ in the UK? I can't think of many contenders.

Rhos Frugtniet with Face de Rat?

https://climbing-history.org/climber/343/rhoslyn-frugtniet

Edit: not on UK turf - sorry

James Malloch

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#9718 Re: significant repeats
June 27, 2021, 09:50:32 am
Aiden Will Bosi has got himself up Isles of Wonder, 8B, third go according to his Instagram. That guy is crazy strong!
« Last Edit: June 27, 2021, 10:04:52 am by James Malloch »

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#9719 Re: significant repeats
June 27, 2021, 09:57:11 am
Aiden has got himself up Isles of Wonder, 8B, third go according to his Instagram. That guy is crazy strong!

That’s the other one, think he’s called Will  ;)
Aidan did it too recently though.
Surely someone will do the sit soon.

James Malloch

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#9720 Re: significant repeats
June 27, 2021, 10:06:07 am
Aiden has got himself up Isles of Wonder, 8B, third go according to his Instagram. That guy is crazy strong!

That’s the other one, think he’s called Will  ;)
Aidan did it too recently though.
Surely someone will do the sit soon.

:chair:
Too early in the morning for me. Only halfway though my coffee…

remus

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#9721 Re: significant repeats
June 27, 2021, 11:37:09 pm
Hazel Findlay did Muy Caliente E9 in Pembroke today. There was a camera crew there so hopefully some footage will appear at some point.

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#9722 Re: significant repeats
June 28, 2021, 09:18:51 am
Sounds like there were a few sketchy moments due to damp pockets. Hazel was saying that due to being short she has to use some extra holds that Angus could avoid, hence him doing it a while back whilst Hazel decided not to go for it then. Surprised she went for it as she was saying it wasn’t justifiable if it was wet. We talked about the potential of using tin foil in some of the pockets so I wonder if she did that? Think she has been down a few times and I imagine this in addition to having a film crew might have pushed her to go for it, whether that is correct or not.

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#9723 Re: significant repeats
June 28, 2021, 12:38:53 pm
Sounds like there were a few sketchy moments due to damp pockets. Hazel was saying that due to being short she has to use some extra holds that Angus could avoid, hence him doing it a while back whilst Hazel decided not to go for it then. Surprised she went for it as she was saying it wasn’t justifiable if it was wet. We talked about the potential of using tin foil in some of the pockets so I wonder if she did that? Think she has been down a few times and I imagine this in addition to having a film crew might have pushed her to go for it, whether that is correct or not.
.

 Tin foil? 5g causing problems down there?

SA Chris

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#9724 Re: significant repeats
June 28, 2021, 01:12:58 pm
Tinfoil is aid anyway.

 

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