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significant repeats (Read 4235132 times)

Fiend

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#9575 Re: significant repeats
May 06, 2021, 09:17:14 am
Superb BGFBB dedication. Seriously tho respect to everyone involved irrespective of method. Apart from the Ondra who didn't flash it, the punt.

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#9576 Re: significant repeats
May 06, 2021, 10:03:11 am
I think those were the details! He brushed his spotter with his  foot and never redid it (don’t think he tried). Like heel hooks, foot dabs had not been discovered back then.

Strikes a chord, only about a million grades easier.

56 year old duffer trying to embrace the heelhook. Found a new traverse I was trying last night (third session). Lost the feet at one point and very gently brushed the mat ...with about the same force as a deep breath from a large moth. Stepped off: "You won't be happy finishing it that way and the whole of ukb will be silently judging."

Next go a move later, finding a hidden foothold in the roof my hip popped and pulled a hamstring. You b*stards!
 :lol:

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#9577 Re: significant repeats
May 06, 2021, 11:11:53 am
Quote
I can’t say the crux of The Dominator is the most difficult move I’ve ever done, but it’s certainly required the most patience.  Sticking with the original method was a conscious decision made years ago in an effort to better appreciate an important step in the progression of bouldering.  What Jerry accomplished in 1993, with this move, was a big step forward.  I’ve given this move more attempts than any other in my nearly 20 years of climbing.  Easily over 1000 tries.  I could have switched to the newer heel hook method and been done in a day, but I resolved to take the long road.  Now, having finally arrived on the other side of a long battle, I can honestly say that this move taught me more about how to move proficiently as a climber than anything else I’ve encountered.  In the age of the “quick send” it’s important to find opportunities for abiding effort, especially when the result is modest on paper.  Therein lies growth.

Superb. Absolutely.

This is antithetical to how I view climbing. It is about finding the best methods to do the moves, not getting strong enough to do it with daft methods. If I wasn't such a relaxed dude I would get worked up about this nonsens.

(EDIT It is of course OK that Moffat did it with a daft sequence. But that was thirty years ago)

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#9578 Re: significant repeats
May 06, 2021, 11:17:19 am
If I'd just done something as awesome as Géminis I'd be pretty relaxed too jwi!

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#9579 Re: significant repeats
May 06, 2021, 11:38:33 am
If I'd just done something as awesome as Géminis I'd be pretty relaxed too jwi!

haha. FB 6B but forever is not very relaxing for me!

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#9580 Re: significant repeats
May 06, 2021, 01:25:18 pm
This is antithetical to how I view climbing. It is about finding the best methods to do the moves, not getting strong enough to do it with daft methods. If I wasn't such a relaxed dude I would get worked up about this nonsens.

(EDIT It is of course OK that Moffat did it with a daft sequence. But that was thirty years ago)

I hear what you're saying, but I'd be a much better climber relative to my peers if only the front end of the foot was allowed - I'm good at toe-hooks/shit at heels. Anything posterior to the mid-sole would be 'back around' if I was world king.

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#9581 Re: significant repeats
May 06, 2021, 01:52:39 pm
or you could just get stronger hamstrings maybe?

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#9582 Re: significant repeats
May 06, 2021, 03:27:40 pm
Looks like Jim Pope repeated Mal Smith's Transformer (8c) at Malham yesterday.

Question for the locals: is this the second ascent? Steve Mc would be the obvious candidate but I can't find anything in the news about him having done it.

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#9583 Re: significant repeats
May 06, 2021, 03:33:18 pm
This is antithetical to how I view climbing. It is about finding the best methods to do the moves, not getting strong enough to do it with daft methods. If I wasn't such a relaxed dude I would get worked up about this nonsens.

(EDIT It is of course OK that Moffat did it with a daft sequence. But that was thirty years ago)

I hear what you're saying, but I'd be a much better climber relative to my peers if only the front end of the foot was allowed - I'm good at toe-hooks/shit at heels. Anything posterior to the mid-sole would be 'back around' if I was world king.

Interesting - I’m alright at heels (but not a strength) but rubbish at toe hooks. To the point I was thinking about how to train for them! (Apart from practice toe hooks)

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#9585 Re: significant repeats
May 06, 2021, 03:49:41 pm

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#9586 Re: significant repeats
May 06, 2021, 03:51:07 pm
Will Bosi did Transformer in 2015.
Thought it was called Transform? Certainly was in the last definitive guide.

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#9587 Re: significant repeats
May 06, 2021, 04:04:31 pm
Also been done by a euro with a mohawk IIRC - Sebastian Halenke or something like that?

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#9588 Re: significant repeats
May 06, 2021, 04:12:25 pm
Interesting - I’m alright at heels (but not a strength) but rubbish at toe hooks. To the point I was thinking about how to train for them! (Apart from practice toe hooks)
I'm terrible at them too. I tired doing toe lifts with a kettlebell on my toes for a bit. Didn't seem to make much difference, so scratch that from potential regimes.

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#9589 Re: significant repeats
May 06, 2021, 04:13:27 pm
Bat hang off stuff seems like the obvious way?

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#9590 Re: significant repeats
May 06, 2021, 04:39:07 pm
This is antithetical to how I view climbing. It is about finding the best methods to do the moves, not getting strong enough to do it with daft methods. If I wasn't such a relaxed dude I would get worked up about this nonsens.

(EDIT It is of course OK that Moffat did it with a daft sequence. But that was thirty years ago)

I hear what you're saying, but I'd be a much better climber relative to my peers if only the front end of the foot was allowed - I'm good at toe-hooks/shit at heels. Anything posterior to the mid-sole would be 'back around' if I was world king.

Interesting - I’m alright at heels (but not a strength) but rubbish at toe hooks. To the point I was thinking about how to train for them! (Apart from practice toe hooks)

I use them loads to hold myself in to the rock when bolting new routes. Whether that's nature or nurture I couldn't say.. quite possible I always had strong muscles in that orientation. But pulling in with the toe-hooks while drilling on steep ground can't be bad for them. It's less natural a position to use heels I think, maybe I should try next time!

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#9591 Re: significant repeats
May 06, 2021, 04:40:01 pm
Bat hang off stuff seems like the obvious way?

Not even close to doing one on a massive jug or even a ladder rung

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#9592 Re: significant repeats
May 06, 2021, 04:53:58 pm
On a side note, what is a guppy?

Imagine you are trying to climb a blunt arete direct. If you cup the arete with your thumbs pointing down (same side of hold as fingers) and squeeze, sort of with the back of you hand, that is a guppy. Kind of the opposite to a layback.

In the video of Katie Lamb on Dominator it is how she takes the first right hand hold. Thumb down and cupping it with the back of her hand.

what a gaston is to a layaway, a guppy is to a slopey pinch.

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#9593 Re: significant repeats
May 06, 2021, 04:54:40 pm
Bat hang off stuff seems like the obvious way?

Not even close to doing one on a massive jug or even a ladder rung

Me neither. Starts assisted bat hangs thread 😂

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#9594 Re: significant repeats
May 06, 2021, 05:57:22 pm
Bat hang off stuff seems like the obvious way?

Not even close to doing one on a massive jug or even a ladder rung

Me neither. Starts assisted bat hangs thread

Yeah, this seems to be something people can just do and I'm nowhere near. Equally pathetic trying to hands off whilst kneebarring. I must have a seriously weak link in the chain somwhere!

I tell myself I'm better off this way

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#9595 Re: significant repeats
May 06, 2021, 09:04:26 pm
Also been done by a euro with a mohawk IIRC - Sebastian Halenke or something like that?

Correct. Jim confirmed this yesterday.

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#9596 Re: significant repeats
May 06, 2021, 09:49:52 pm
Will Bosi did Transformer in 2015.
Thought it was called Transform? Certainly was in the last definitive guide.

Malc called it Transform. After what Power Rangers do.


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#9597 Re: significant repeats
May 06, 2021, 09:54:21 pm
Question for the locals: is this the second ascent? Steve Mc would be the obvious candidate but I can't find anything in the news about him having done it.

Malc was under the impression Steve did second ascent.

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#9598 Re: significant repeats
May 06, 2021, 10:34:30 pm
Question for the locals: is this the second ascent? Steve Mc would be the obvious candidate but I can't find anything in the news about him having done it.

Malc was under the impression Steve did second ascent.

He may well have done, I just had a quick google and couldn't find any mention of it and had assumed it would have been in the news at the time.

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#9599 Re: significant repeats
May 07, 2021, 08:52:59 am
My recolllection is that Steve has done it, I don't have any documentary source for this though

 

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