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significant repeats (Read 4236818 times)

Fiend

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#9500 Re: significant repeats
April 16, 2021, 09:13:53 am
I think Jim Pope has onsighted Nick Dixon's Une Jeune Fille Quatre Vingt Dix Ans (E8) at Nesscliffe. I think this is the first onsight of the route.

Is that the one in his recent video?

Nope. UJFQVDA is a fairly old route at Nesscliffe. Is the new one even Ness and not Grinshill??

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#9501 Re: significant repeats
April 16, 2021, 09:25:16 am
I think Jim Pope has onsighted Nick Dixon's Une Jeune Fille Quatre Vingt Dix Ans (E8) at Nesscliffe. I think this is the first onsight of the route.

Is that the one in his recent video?

Nope. UJFQVDA is a fairly old route at Nesscliffe. Is the new one even Ness and not Grinshill??

The new one is at Harmer Hill I think. Worth a look at the pics on UKC - looks brilliant.

Ally Smith

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#9502 Re: significant repeats
April 16, 2021, 09:58:31 am
I think Jim Pope has onsighted Nick Dixon's Une Jeune Fille Quatre Vingt Dix Ans (E8) at Nesscliffe. I think this is the first onsight of the route.

Is that the one in his recent video?

Just to save some confusion, Nick posted a video of Une Jeune Fille... to his facebook profile last week, this is a separate video to the one detailing his new Harmer Hill E8 from the week before.
« Last Edit: April 16, 2021, 10:05:13 am by Ally Smith »

Will Hunt

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#9503 Re: significant repeats
April 16, 2021, 10:44:14 pm
I think Jim Pope has onsighted Nick Dixon's Une Jeune Fille Quatre Vingt Dix Ans (E8) at Nesscliffe. I think this is the first onsight of the route.
A flash would be impressive, but if this is a proper onsight then that's amazing. IIRC it's really techy and easy to fluff at the top.

My sources have informed me that Jim was beta'd "to the hilt", so a flash I think.

Ed booth

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#9504 Re: significant repeats
April 19, 2021, 10:54:54 am
I know Steve McClure flashed this without too much drama. I think it was the afternoon after he had made the first ascent of Greatness wall in the morning.
Jeune Fille is a route where the E grade isn't perhaps as relevant as others. It's quite safe and mainly reliant on in situ pegs and an ice screw.
Wouldn't be surprised if others have flashed it too.
Good to see Jim has finally headed there, enough hard routes too last him at least a couple of days .

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#9505 Re: significant repeats
April 19, 2021, 11:07:12 am
Excellent Ness knowledge as per usual, thanks Ed.

Will Hunt

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#9506 Re: significant repeats
April 19, 2021, 12:34:45 pm
Do you have a view on what happens at Nesscliffe when the in-situ pegs start to rot and snap on people, Ed? I've never been but it looks like a popular venue because there's great climbing, inspiring lines, but also some relative clip-ups that let those with some vert fitness clock up big numbers in relative safety. What are the options? Let the routes become unpredictable chop routes? Replace the pegs if possible? Drill bolts where the pegs were? Is there enough good natural protection to not worry? The rock looks decent but not above exploding with a big fall.
The Gogarth locals have started to place glue-in pegs which has been controversial to some. Just wondering, as a local, what you might think is the best call?

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#9507 Re: significant repeats
April 19, 2021, 01:24:51 pm
Ever the stirrer Will!

I'm glad you called the gear placed at Gogarth (as well as Pen Trwyn and Craig y Forwyn) pegs and not bolts. Semantics are important when the goal is to deceive ourselves and others.

I suspect the approach will be for current Nesscliffe custodians to kick the fixed-gear can down the road for as long as possible until a new group of crag custodians have to think about kicking the can on a little further..


* The rules of the game preclude them being categorised as 'bolts' if they're on a route categorised as trad. They are 'glue-in stainless fixed gear placed into improved or drilled placements'.

Will Hunt

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#9508 Re: significant repeats
April 19, 2021, 01:34:10 pm
For what it's worth I have no strong opinion on the Gogarth stuff as I don't know the detail around it. I'm not really interested in discussing it here, nor am I ever likely to climb one of the affected routes. Pete's the stirrer.

I'm just interested in what might happen at Nesscliffe.

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#9509 Re: significant repeats
April 19, 2021, 02:01:36 pm
Tricky issue. I have personally benefited from all of the pegged routes at ness at particular points in my own climbing. I have even placed a fair few pegs on Shropshire sandstone. I am now of the opinion that I don't think they are very sustainable and have turned down the opportunity in recent years to peg a couple of routes. One example in particular I can think of is a line which both myself and another local had top roped, it has some cool climbing but on natural pro was virtually impossible to protect leaving what would be an outrageous solo, and a fairly unbalanced route. Like many of the Ness routes, they have lots of breaks/pockets that take good pegs. On this occasion I turned down the pegging and decided I didn't really want to. I just personally feel now that rather than create routes at a created level of safety/danger without thinking about the future is possibly a little bit shortsighted. Whilst it might not be as fun as getting a lead in, I feel like now if I can't do it without using pegs, then I will just be content to settle for a clean top rope. IN this case the other climber pegged it and led it.
I almost feel like it would benefit from a cultural change where clean top ropes are more respected for one's own satisfaction/achievement. I'm not sure they need bolting because the aim of that would be to make them safe which a top rope would achieve. And they are all vert.
Waiting for fixed gear to rot and not replace it would undoubtedly  change the nature of many routes. Unfortunately many of the Nesscliffe routes would become quite shit lead prospects in particular. Many people visit and seem to be surprised at the look of a lot of the natural protection options, but in reality people seem to use that as encouragement to try stuff ground up and I have seen and heard of many occasions of the placements then just exploding all around the kit.
Not sure what the solution is  :-\

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#9510 Re: significant repeats
April 19, 2021, 02:45:28 pm
I almost feel like it would benefit from a cultural change where clean top ropes are more respected for one's own satisfaction/achievement. I'm not sure they need bolting because the aim of that would be to make them safe which a top rope would achieve. And they are all vert.

Agree with this. We get totally wrapped up in the culture of it - the only valid ascent is a lead, subject to local ethics on gear etc. Everything at Nesscliffe is pretty easy to drop a toprope down. It definitely feels unsatisfying and leading them is more fun, but it's also hard to decouple the sense of what you're expected to do in order to consider a project finished.

Then again, the rock is so soft that the routes aren't sustainable anyway... At least the cultural incentive to lead them probably keeps the visitor numbers low,

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#9511 Re: significant repeats
April 19, 2021, 07:45:22 pm
^^^ good posts.

jwi

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#9512 Re: significant repeats
April 21, 2021, 10:57:58 am
Eder (Sheffield's resident strong Basque) did Rainshadow today


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#9513 Re: significant repeats
April 21, 2021, 01:38:26 pm
I think this belongs here or in LFOS.

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#9515 Re: significant repeats
April 22, 2021, 07:21:56 pm
Super strong on the big move to the lip 💪💪💪 amazing!

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#9517 Re: significant repeats
April 22, 2021, 08:06:06 pm
Two sessions. No kneepad

Fiend

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#9518 Re: significant repeats
April 22, 2021, 10:24:04 pm
World class  :strongbench:

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#9519 Re: significant repeats
April 23, 2021, 08:54:00 am
Gotta be one.of the smoothest ascents! Am I right in thinking she's gone straight from 8A to 8B?!

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#9520 Re: significant repeats
April 23, 2021, 09:30:25 am
Gotta be one.of the smoothest ascents! Am I right in thinking she's gone straight from 8A to 8B?!

Plus grades are overrated right.
:strongbench: :strongbench: :strongbench:

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#9521 Re: significant repeats
April 23, 2021, 10:01:22 am
Am I right in thinking she's gone straight from 8A to 8B?!

Well, that depends doesn't it...  :fishing:

Jokes, what a monster!

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#9522 Re: significant repeats
April 23, 2021, 10:21:11 am
Grade has divided opinion as discussed on here several times. Seems some find it straightforward and others struggle. FWIW Steve Mac hasn’t done it and unsuccessfully put in some effort recently and injured himself in the process. Comments on ukc logbook suggest 8A+ if you lank it. Presumably kneepad helps if you can get it to work for you. Whatever the consensus - looks like an 8B performance for Molly from my armchair and Im sure other 8B’s or harder will be in the pipeline given how quick it went down, her comp performance and her feats of strength on the fingerboard.

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#9523 Re: significant repeats
April 23, 2021, 10:25:08 am
Man maybe I should take up fishing, too easy getting a bite  :lol:

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#9524 Re: significant repeats
April 23, 2021, 10:26:52 am
Man maybe I should take up fishing, too easy getting a bite  :lol:

Would be easy to dodge the issue but Remus has the important matter of a list to update

 

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