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significant repeats (Read 4233470 times)

Doylo

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#9050 Re: significant repeats
July 06, 2020, 07:43:52 am
North Wales local Kieran Forrest has done Liquid Ambar in very quick time. 1 sesh last year and 4 this year matching Moon’s 5 days in the early 90s. He’s primarily trained indoors for comps for years - no surprise he’s so strong then. I used to see him down there years ago when he was a tiny boy trying to top rope 8a’s. Almost 30 years to the day after Jerrys FA, crazy it’s not been done more given how classic/historic/good it is. 

gme

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#9051 Re: significant repeats
July 06, 2020, 10:50:01 am
Good effort. About time this got some more repeats.

I would have thought the good youngsters would demolish it pretty quickly. Not heard of this lad before.

petejh

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#9052 Re: significant repeats
July 06, 2020, 11:45:57 am
Watched him do it yesterday belayed by his dad, pretty cool. Low key crusher. Hadn't realised he was trying it until the other day, hardly the siege. He also got high on the flash of Walking Muscle 8b+ falling just below the crack of OTM. Pilgrimage in sight..
« Last Edit: July 06, 2020, 12:05:57 pm by petejh »

Duma

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#9053 Re: significant repeats
July 09, 2020, 08:45:43 am
Alex Waterhouse did Superskunk 8c in the frankenjura 2nd go on Tues. (from 8a.nu)

remus

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#9054 Re: significant repeats
July 11, 2020, 11:34:51 pm
Rhos Frugniet did Poppy at ansteys cove today.

monkey boy

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#9055 Re: significant repeats
July 14, 2020, 06:58:57 am
Alex Waterhouse has done The Last Rites (8c+) in Frankenjura.

Ged

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#9056 Re: significant repeats
July 14, 2020, 09:05:42 am
Rhos Frugniet did Poppy at ansteys cove today.

Nice one Roz. 

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#9057 Re: significant repeats
July 18, 2020, 11:25:59 pm
Drew Ruana with the 2nd ascent of Box Therapy 8C+
https://www.instagram.com/p/CCyeC_9j-7u/?igshid=1xfi0ju44s1e4

jwi

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#9058 Re: significant repeats
July 25, 2020, 08:02:08 pm
Laura Rogora has repeated Ali Hulk sit extension total, 9b, in Rodellar, making her the second woman to have climbed 9b. Ali Hulk sit extension total is one of the twelve or thirteen different Ali/Hulk links and is basically a short extension of Dani Andradas Ali Hulk extension sit start, also 9b. If I understand what I read.

Laura Rogora has previously done one 9a+, Pure dreaming Plus, in Massone. She has also done four 9as and eight 8c+/9a

Bradders

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#9059 Re: significant repeats
July 25, 2020, 08:11:07 pm
Is that a route with a sit start?

Duma

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#9060 Re: significant repeats
July 25, 2020, 08:16:22 pm
Amazing achievement, but what a terrible route. Hope you're not lowering your standards jwi!

Bradders, as I understand it, it's a sit start, to a boulder extention, to route in a 20ft high grotty cave. Worse it's in the bottom of Rodellar, so you're surrounded by soaring world class lines.

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#9061 Re: significant repeats
July 25, 2020, 08:32:59 pm
Ali Hulk sit extension total ... is basically a short extension of Dani Andradas Ali Hulk extension sit start, also 9b. If I understand what I read.
:-\ :lol: it sounds like something at the Tor ffs.

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#9062 Re: significant repeats
July 29, 2020, 09:08:23 pm
Whilst i'm on I thought i'd add a few bits i caught wind of over the last few weeks or so.

Bosi completed the stuff at Badger cove.

Aidan broke Little Women making the 7B stand pretty damn tricky imo now, much much harder than 7B, he still went on to do the full thing that session, 8B now he says  :lol: . I went and had a look and deleted it from my list of things to try, stand is too hard for me now, never mind the full thing.

He then added a link going rightwards into Kylie which is also "8B". He also made an ascent of Texas hold em sit, not sure what the crack is with this, be interested for anyone who knows the background of the problem better than me. For sure it's hard and probably a FA, unless Gaskin's actually did it. He also did the Wave project at Biblins, I can only guess it's quite hard since Squire has tried and not done and he's a mutant.

Hamish Potokar climbed Spaceship at Biblins too, his first 8B+.

Mickey Page climbed every hard lime problem in the peak but doesn't want everyone to know haha.


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#9063 Re: significant repeats
July 29, 2020, 09:33:29 pm
I heard Wil is getting close on Mutation. He got a couple of moves passed the crux cross through move yesterday morning

James Malloch

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#9064 Re: significant repeats
July 29, 2020, 09:43:49 pm
Whilst i'm on I thought i'd add a few bits i caught wind of over the last few weeks or so.

Bosi completed the stuff at Badger cove.

Aidan broke Little Women making the 7B stand pretty damn tricky imo now, much much harder than 7B, he still went on to do the full thing that session, 8B now he says  :lol: . I went and had a look and deleted it from my list of things to try, stand is too hard for me now, never mind the full thing.

Do you know what broke on the stand? I did it a few years back and can’t think what would have broken to massively change it - though it’s probably just my memory...

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#9065 Re: significant repeats
July 29, 2020, 10:24:50 pm
Yeah the high left hand sidepull, I did the moves on the stand but didn't link even from after the crux of LW to the end. Gutted, a proj gone.

Duma

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#9066 Re: significant repeats
July 29, 2020, 10:28:12 pm
Thanks for the update Jack, I'd seen Hamish had done Spaceship but the rest was news to me. Especially impressed with the biblins wave project, maybe cos its the only one I've seen in the flesh, seems incomprehensible to me!

Duma

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#9067 Re: significant repeats
July 29, 2020, 10:30:04 pm
also any idea if Aiden tried any of the other hard stuff at biblins?

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#9068 Re: significant repeats
July 29, 2020, 10:44:33 pm
Kierran Forrest strikes again, this time with Pilgrimage

https://www.instagram.com/p/CDPVMKTjsgc/

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#9069 Re: significant repeats
July 30, 2020, 09:41:28 am
Strong effort   :strongbench:

Any insight on how many kneebars used?

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#9070 Re: significant repeats
July 30, 2020, 09:50:39 am
Whilst i'm on I thought i'd add a few bits i caught wind of over the last few weeks or so.

He also made an ascent of Texas hold em sit, not sure what the crack is with this, be interested for anyone who knows the background of the problem better than me. For sure it's hard and probably a FA, unless Gaskin's actually did it.

Didnt sam do fa of this? Or was it just a repeat?

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#9071 Re: significant repeats
July 30, 2020, 11:13:57 am
Maybe, I remember reading at the time Sam did something and suggested 7C. Aidan says it’s 8B or so, so I very much doubt they are the same thing. Aidan is pretty conservative with his grades. I’m lucky to do the moves on his ‘8As’

James Malloch

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#9072 Re: significant repeats
July 30, 2020, 11:52:36 am
Yeah the high left hand sidepull, I did the moves on the stand but didn't link even from after the crux of LW to the end. Gutted, a proj gone.

I think I know the one you mean. You use it to then move your RH from the starting pocket. I used an intermediate LH crimp just below that to get to it, but it would be very hard to do a move of it.

Shame, but I guess holds break...

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#9073 Re: significant repeats
July 30, 2020, 12:22:58 pm
Maybe, I remember reading at the time Sam did something and suggested 7C. Aidan says it’s 8B or so, so I very much doubt they are the same thing. Aidan is pretty conservative with his grades. I’m lucky to do the moves on his ‘8As’

Aaaah good old South Lakes, clear as mud as usual!

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#9074 Re: significant repeats
July 30, 2020, 01:17:02 pm
Yeah the high left hand sidepull, I did the moves on the stand but didn't link even from after the crux of LW to the end. Gutted, a proj gone.

I think I know the one you mean. You use it to then move your RH from the starting pocket. I used an intermediate LH crimp just below that to get to it, but it would be very hard to do a move of it.

Shame, but I guess holds break...

Yeah they sure do.

That intermediate is what the problem revolves around now haha. You do a move off it and then a harder move off the undercut massive pocket.

 

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