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significant repeats (Read 2365451 times)

shark

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#8900 Re: significant repeats
May 21, 2020, 12:26:22 pm
Welease Wojer


Duma

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#8901 Re: significant repeats
May 21, 2020, 03:23:47 pm

remus

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#8902 Re: significant repeats
May 21, 2020, 03:40:42 pm
That's friggin sweet! Is that her first 9a? Good one to start with.

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#8903 Re: significant repeats
May 21, 2020, 04:03:41 pm
Beastliness! Of course it's easier if you have small fingers and can fit more in the pockets.

(Just kidding it's the standard excuse when a female does anything hard)

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#8904 Re: significant repeats
May 21, 2020, 04:22:53 pm
9a might not be that 'ard anymore but that route will always be savage.

Any other female ascents?

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#8905 Re: significant repeats
May 21, 2020, 04:41:39 pm
9a might not be that 'ard anymore but that route will always be savage.

Any other female ascents?

I think not!

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#8906 Re: significant repeats
May 21, 2020, 04:54:30 pm
Great stuff. Always a favourite in the comps.

mark20

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#8907 Re: significant repeats
May 21, 2020, 05:44:58 pm
Wojciech Szymanowicz has repeated Rewind (E10, 7a) at Carn Vellan.

So far as I know this is the second ascent, and the first placing all the gear on lead.

I don’t know what he thinks of the trad grade, but Wojciech commented to me previously that on bolts he thought it would be hard 8a+.

Social distancing was maintained as he rope soloed it.  :o

Wow that's brilliant. And to self belay on such a steep crag - amazing! Looks mega in that vid Ru posted


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#8909 Re: significant repeats
May 22, 2020, 11:29:29 am
The facial expression on her Instagram is friggin magic!

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#8910 Re: significant repeats
May 22, 2020, 11:34:57 am
The facial expression on her Instagram is friggin magic!

RE her Instagram, is it weird that I find this just as impressive as her ascent of AD?:

https://www.instagram.com/p/B91u7NjIs33/?igshid=8jpkkusliwwr

Anti

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#8911 Re: significant repeats
May 22, 2020, 02:39:22 pm
http://fanatic-climbing.com/premiere-feminine-daction-directe-9a-par-melissa-le-neve-first-female-ascent-of-action-directe-9a-by-melissa-le-neve/

9a, Action Directe, Melissa Le Nevé.  :great:

Awesome! Has anyone checked with the belayer? Hah, sorry. Is it too soon for jokes like that? This is rad. I'm so excited about how the gap between male and female top climbers is closing a lot faster than in other sports.

tim palmer

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#8912 Re: significant repeats
May 22, 2020, 04:27:32 pm
http://fanatic-climbing.com/premiere-feminine-daction-directe-9a-par-melissa-le-neve-first-female-ascent-of-action-directe-9a-by-melissa-le-neve/

9a, Action Directe, Melissa Le Nevé.  :great:

Awesome! Has anyone checked with the belayer? Hah, sorry. Is it too soon for jokes like that? This is rad. I'm so excited about how the gap between male and female top climbers is closing a lot faster than in other sports.

Other than the historic curiosity of the route is this significant? 

Did josune bereziartu not climb this grade almost 20 years ago?

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#8913 Re: significant repeats
May 22, 2020, 04:30:48 pm
First female ascent of iconic first 9a power route with massive dyno crux. It’s the route not the grade.

In the same way that any repeat of Hubble is still significant despite the raw numbers suggesting otherwise?

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#8914 Re: significant repeats
May 22, 2020, 04:48:15 pm
http://fanatic-climbing.com/premiere-feminine-daction-directe-9a-par-melissa-le-neve-first-female-ascent-of-action-directe-9a-by-melissa-le-neve/

9a, Action Directe, Melissa Le Nevé.  :great:

Awesome! Has anyone checked with the belayer? Hah, sorry. Is it too soon for jokes like that? This is rad. I'm so excited about how the gap between male and female top climbers is closing a lot faster than in other sports.

Other than the historic curiosity of the route is this significant? 

Did josune bereziartu not climb this grade almost 20 years ago?

Are you proposing we ought to not care about any ascents unless it's pushing grade boundaries?

tim palmer

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#8915 Re: significant repeats
May 22, 2020, 04:50:34 pm
http://fanatic-climbing.com/premiere-feminine-daction-directe-9a-par-melissa-le-neve-first-female-ascent-of-action-directe-9a-by-melissa-le-neve/

9a, Action Directe, Melissa Le Nevé.  :great:

Awesome! Has anyone checked with the belayer? Hah, sorry. Is it too soon for jokes like that? This is rad. I'm so excited about how the gap between male and female top climbers is closing a lot faster than in other sports.

Other than the historic curiosity of the route is this significant? 

Did josune bereziartu not climb this grade almost 20 years ago?

Are you proposing we ought not to care about any ascents unless it's pushing grade boundaries?

were you not just suggesting it was significant because it was?

Anti

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#8916 Re: significant repeats
May 22, 2020, 04:58:48 pm
Well, it wasn't me who posted it but I'm more just excited that female climbers are climbing harder things more regularly.

There's an argument that some routes seem to have a reputation as more "significant" than others, Action Directe appears to be one of them, there always seems to be a bit of a social media storm around ascents of it, so I suppose this is important in that respect.

I don't know if I could argue that it was an insignificant ascent.

tim palmer

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#8917 Re: significant repeats
May 22, 2020, 05:26:19 pm
Well, it wasn't me who posted it but I'm more just excited that female climbers are climbing harder things more regularly.

There's an argument that some routes seem to have a reputation as more "significant" than others, Action Directe appears to be one of them, there always seems to be a bit of a social media storm around ascents of it, so I suppose this is important in that respect.

I don't know if I could argue that it was an insignificant ascent.

Yeah obviously all relative,  just it is a thirty year old route at a grade that was climbed almost 20 years ago.  Frankenjura has seen female 9a ascents before but nice that some one of both genders has climbed the first one I suppose.

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#8918 Re: significant repeats
May 22, 2020, 05:33:20 pm
A lot of women I know who climb really well find grade talk pretty tedious. Probably one of the reasons they avoid forums. Routes are generally graded for blokes by blokes. If you’re 5’1 most routes are harder than if you’re 6’1. Dynos are harder if you’re short. My understanding with Action Direct is the dyno is the crux. Maybe Melissa thought that was piss and the rest hard, dunno? No doubt she’ll be interviewed about it.

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#8919 Re: significant repeats
May 22, 2020, 05:49:53 pm
A lot of women I know who climb really well find grade talk pretty tedious. Probably one of the reasons they avoid forums. Routes are generally graded for blokes by blokes. If you’re 5’1 most routes are harder than if you’re 6’1. Dynos are harder if you’re short. My understanding with Action Direct is the dyno is the crux. Maybe Melissa thought that was piss and the rest hard, dunno? No doubt she’ll be interviewed about it.

No sounds like it gave her a lot of trouble. Is a 7C+ jump. Defo more factors than grade constitute significance. I find this more impressive than a female doing La Rambla.

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#8920 Re: significant repeats
May 22, 2020, 11:20:38 pm
The facial expression on her Instagram is friggin magic!

RE her Instagram, is it weird that I find this just as impressive as her ascent of AD?:

https://www.instagram.com/p/B91u7NjIs33/?igshid=8jpkkusliwwr

A bit weird I think.  I'm miles off being able to perform either feat but fairly certain there are significantly fewer miles between me and doing that on a bm2k then there are between me and an ascent of AD.

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#8921 Re: significant repeats
May 23, 2020, 08:50:02 am
The facial expression on her Instagram is friggin magic!

RE her Instagram, is it weird that I find this just as impressive as her ascent of AD?:

https://www.instagram.com/p/B91u7NjIs33/?igshid=8jpkkusliwwr

A bit weird I think.  I'm miles off being able to perform either feat but fairly certain there are significantly fewer miles between me and doing that on a bm2k then there are between me and an ascent of AD.

Physical miles maybe, but perhaps AD is steady away.

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#8922 Re: significant repeats
May 23, 2020, 06:29:59 pm
Saw on insta that Alex Waterhouse has repeated Randall’s 40 roof crack 8B at Hartland. Whilst obviously not impressive in the grand scheme of things grade wise it’s an amazing feature and must be up there in grade terms for cracks.

https://www.instagram.com/p/CAiZUiyDSUt/?igshid=12sor9k2a10xo

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#8923 Re: significant repeats
May 23, 2020, 09:52:17 pm
nice that some one of both genders has climbed the first one I suppose.

That reads like you're suggesting she's a hermaphrodite?

36chambers

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#8924 Re: significant repeats
May 23, 2020, 10:26:00 pm
Saw on insta that Alex Waterhouse has repeated Randall’s 40 roof crack 8B at Hartland. Whilst obviously not impressive in the grand scheme of things grade wise it’s an amazing feature and must be up there in grade terms for cracks.

https://www.instagram.com/p/CAiZUiyDSUt/?igshid=12sor9k2a10xo

In three sessions as well.

I remember looking at that cave last year and admiring how detailed the entire roof looked. Looked like there were holds everywhere, but they are probably all too shit to use.

 

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