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significant repeats (Read 2419509 times)

Doylo

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#8825 Re: significant repeats
January 17, 2020, 07:19:57 pm
Entree at two tier, 7bish boulder to a very steady top

Is this a joke?! Or does the "7bish" boulder grade extend quite a way!

Iíve always heard 7c

tim palmer

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#8826 Re: significant repeats
January 17, 2020, 08:37:13 pm
Well I said 7b-ish. 

JackPal

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#8827 Re: significant repeats
January 17, 2020, 10:12:40 pm

I think Jason's is generally considered 7C+

Can't comment on the grade of Jason's (yet) but Pope has flashed at least a few 8th grade boulders, just too lazy to do anything harder. At home he's flashed up to 8A and I think 8A+ abroad.


Pretty sure Caff hasn't flashed 8A. Imagine Robbins has done 8a and E8 and has the ability to have done an 8A but might have spent all his time developing new things instead. Agree Jordan, Ryan or Dave Mac could well have, it's just the 8A I'm not sure about. Could also be someone like Varian or Micky P could slip on if one of the highballs gets E8.


As for Caff i'd be surpirsed if he has done 8A at all! #weak  :jab:




Fiend

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#8828 Re: significant repeats
January 17, 2020, 10:57:32 pm
Isn't he on the FA of some 8A highball in the Ogwen section of the NWBible, or is that just some 7B+ with 8A's worth of highball terror?

JackPal

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#8829 Re: significant repeats
January 18, 2020, 08:47:37 am
He is yeah, I was merely poking fun. Couple of highball 8s he put up in the guide yeah, think only one has seen a repeat. And a load of 8th grade repeats.

fatneck

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#8830 Re: significant repeats
January 30, 2020, 03:31:10 pm
Jack, did I see you had repeated Isles of Wonder? Effort and, I assume, noteworthy!

JackPal

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#8831 Re: significant repeats
February 22, 2020, 06:02:08 pm
Jack, did I see you had repeated Isles of Wonder? Effort and, I assume, noteworthy!

Sorry only just saw this. Yeah did Isles, not that significant really but a world class boulder none the less.

Only really came along to sing Eliotís praises. He did From the Dirt Grows Flowers a couple of days ago, what a wad!

teestub

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#8832 Re: significant repeats
February 26, 2020, 10:33:37 pm

Duma

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#8833 Re: significant repeats
February 26, 2020, 10:37:03 pm
Why do people think its OK to play music at the crag.




Wankers.

macca7

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#8834 Re: significant repeats
February 26, 2020, 10:54:19 pm
 :agree:

lukeyboy

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#8835 Re: significant repeats
February 27, 2020, 08:33:15 am
Why do people think its OK to play music at the crag.




Wankers.

Couldn't agree more. Must be because they're so Mellow  :wank:

jwi

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#8836 Re: significant repeats
February 27, 2020, 09:27:10 am
Where is Ralf HŁtter when you need him? (He famously used to bring a screw-driver wherever he went in order to unconnect loudspeakers that played music he had not asked for, like for example in hotel lifts.)

Nibile

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#8837 Re: significant repeats
February 27, 2020, 10:16:36 am
Pas le genoux.

JamieG

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#8838 Re: significant repeats
February 27, 2020, 01:37:51 pm
Music issue aside (which I also can't stand). That is super impressive! I really like watching Jimmy climb.

(Although I'm not a fan of all the tick marks you see in these videos, not setting a great example)

abarro81

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#8839 Re: significant repeats
February 27, 2020, 01:46:46 pm
I think expecting people not to use ticks on a stab into a slot, on something at their limit, is rather unrealistic.

T_B

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#8840 Re: significant repeats
February 27, 2020, 02:31:21 pm
I can cope with the chunes, it's the incessant 'c'mons' on all the vids with Jimmy in that make me want to remove my eardrums with a blunt stick. I get that people are syked for him etc but FFS shut the f*ck up!

erm, sam

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#8841 Re: significant repeats
February 27, 2020, 02:42:56 pm
I watched it with the sound off and my first thought was "Oh Jimmy you are such a wad I love you".

cheque

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#8842 Re: significant repeats
February 27, 2020, 03:05:58 pm
Cool video. Really makes me wish that the weather would let me finish my bouldering film.  :'(

I'm probably diplaying my ignorance of nails Swiss boulder problems here but what's the story with the wagon?!


AMorris

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#8843 Re: significant repeats
February 27, 2020, 03:25:34 pm
Great bit of footage for an uncut ascent that, and amazing climbing. But yes, I agree with the music being  :wank:, particularly since (as far as I recall) off the wagon is basically in the middle of a village...

JamieG

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#8844 Re: significant repeats
February 27, 2020, 08:48:20 pm
I think expecting people not to use ticks on a stab into a slot, on something at their limit, is rather unrealistic.

I donít really understand. Do you think without the ticks he wouldnít be able to see the hold? Itís not like itís a blind move. To be fair they arenít big tick marks. But I think itís just a habit now. Iíve seen climbers walk up to a problem and tick mark every hold before even putting their shoes on.

abarro81

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#8845 Re: significant repeats
February 27, 2020, 09:31:59 pm
I think that stabbing into a slot at speed is always hard, and ticks can help - easier to zone in quickly when you look up at the last second... On a problem at your limit that's a stab to a slot I'd expect people to tick. Id also sometimes put ticks whilst brushing a boulder before putting my shoes on if I knew where I wanted them.. or I wanted to flash.. so there you go.

ferret

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#8846 Re: significant repeats
February 28, 2020, 06:30:24 am

(Although I'm not a fan of all the tick marks you see in these videos, not setting a great example)

Nothing wrong with using tick marks, it's not cleaning them off after that's the issue. Would be easy to set a good example if pro climbers included footage of them cleaning the ticks (and holds) off before leaving at the end of every video

Bradders

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#8847 Re: significant repeats
February 28, 2020, 09:51:49 am
I think that stabbing into a slot at speed is always hard, and ticks can help - easier to zone in quickly when you look up at the last second... On a problem at your limit that's a stab to a slot I'd expect people to tick. Id also sometimes put ticks whilst brushing a boulder before putting my shoes on if I knew where I wanted them.. or I wanted to flash.. so there you go.

Couldn't agree more. Just brush them off after.

I can cope with the chunes, it's the incessant 'c'mons' on all the vids with Jimmy in that make me want to remove my eardrums with a blunt stick. I get that people are syked for him etc but FFS shut the f*ck up!

Don't really get the problem here either; you have to wonder whether all the psych and encouragement is a pretty helpful factor in them getting all these things done. I personally like to have plenty of encouragement, it genuinely helps me try harder!

JamieG

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#8848 Re: significant repeats
February 28, 2020, 11:03:41 am
Fair enough. I obviously have used ticks marks before, usually just a small dot and typically only when a hold is hard to see. And I try to be conscientious about brushing them off afterwards. I'm just not the biggest fan of them because too often they aren't brushed off and the boulder looks a state.

That aside. Amazing effort by Jimmy. And I don't mind the cheering on, unsurprisingly it just sounds very American and a touch grating if you are British.

duncan

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#8849 Re: significant repeats
February 28, 2020, 11:37:43 am
Music: not my taste but I'm not the audience.

Verbal encouragement: not to my taste but I'm sure JW would have told them to STFU if it concerned him.

Making that much noise so close to other people's homes in a venue with sensitive access: idiotic and selfish.

 

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