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significant repeats (Read 4237624 times)

jwi

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#8750 Re: significant repeats
December 18, 2019, 08:54:13 am
According to planetgrimpe.com Vadim Timonov did The Kingdom (8C) in a day. On the same day he also did Vecchio leone (8B) 2nd try, Amber (8A+) flash, and Ponk (8A) 2nd go. Not a bad day, eh?

Bradders

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#8751 Re: significant repeats
December 18, 2019, 09:05:14 am
According to planetgrimpe.com Vadim Timonov did The Kingdom (8C) in a day. On the same day he also did Vecchio leone (8B) 2nd try, Amber (8A+) flash, and Ponk (8A) 2nd go. Not a bad day, eh?

Also done Dreamtime on the quick and Off the Wagon 2nd go...

I thought climbing was supposed to be challenging?

highrepute

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#8752 Re: significant repeats
December 18, 2019, 09:39:14 am


This video is linked in the article. Shows some of those things

SA Chris

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#8753 Re: significant repeats
December 18, 2019, 10:19:31 am
I thought climbing was supposed to be challenging?

Maybe he just needs to get on something hard?

Doylo

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#8754 Re: significant repeats
December 18, 2019, 10:53:22 am
According to planetgrimpe.com Vadim Timonov did The Kingdom (8C) in a day. On the same day he also did Vecchio leone (8B) 2nd try, Amber (8A+) flash, and Ponk (8A) 2nd go. Not a bad day, eh?

Also done Dreamtime on the quick and Off the Wagon 2nd go...

I thought climbing was supposed to be challenging?

I remember watching the old Dosage with Sharma and Graham trying Off the Wagon when it was a proj. Neither did it but Sharma made Graham look like a punt. Watched the vid of this guy absolutely pissing it 2nd go and making them both looks weak as wee wee.

Ged

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#8755 Re: significant repeats
December 18, 2019, 01:54:15 pm
To be fair, it does look like an extremely strength specific/basic problem.  I'd imagine there's problems out there where DG could make this chap look a bit less good.

jwi

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#8756 Re: significant repeats
January 08, 2020, 11:21:17 am
Apparently Jacob Schubert did give Off the wagon the Flash treatment. Or did he? Not sure I understood his Instagram post. If it was flash it would be his second 8b+ flash.

gme

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#8757 Re: significant repeats
January 08, 2020, 11:56:14 am
Not the case. The top out was a flash and took him ages hence him mentioning flash/onsight in his post.

jwi

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#8758 Re: significant repeats
January 08, 2020, 02:29:58 pm
thx!

andy popp

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#8759 Re: significant repeats
January 08, 2020, 03:03:22 pm
Apparently Jacob Schubert did give Off the wagon the Flash treatment. Or did he? Not sure I understood his Instagram post. If it was flash it would be his second 8b+ flash.

I'm liking your work there JWI.

Jimmy Webb has done Lucid Dreaming. I know 8C ascents are two-a-penny nowadays but this problem still seems like a significant tick.
« Last Edit: January 08, 2020, 03:32:22 pm by andy popp »

Duma

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#8760 Re: significant repeats
January 08, 2020, 03:16:44 pm
Esp given the size ratio between him and the holds!

Doylo

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#8761 Re: significant repeats
January 08, 2020, 07:41:39 pm
Apparently Jacob Schubert did give Off the wagon the Flash treatment. Or did he? Not sure I understood his Instagram post. If it was flash it would be his second 8b+ flash.

I'm liking your work there JWI.

Jimmy Webb has done Lucid Dreaming. I know 8C ascents are two-a-penny nowadays but this problem still seems like a significant tick.

About 4 stone heavier than the others and did it quicker  :punk: :punk:

Doylo

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#8762 Re: significant repeats
January 08, 2020, 07:43:11 pm
Apparently Jacob Schubert did give Off the wagon the Flash treatment. Or did he? Not sure I understood his Instagram post. If it was flash it would be his second 8b+ flash.


Good basic test of strength for the freaks/wads. The strongest keep foot on and glide up. Low start holding out for a repeat though

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#8763 Re: significant repeats
January 08, 2020, 07:52:13 pm
Apparently Jacob Schubert did give Off the wagon the Flash treatment. Or did he? Not sure I understood his Instagram post. If it was flash it would be his second 8b+ flash.


Good basic test of strength for the freaks/wads. The strongest keep foot on and glide up. Low start holding out for a repeat though
Giuliano Cameroni was looking close on his IG stories...

Doylo

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#8764 Re: significant repeats
January 08, 2020, 07:55:25 pm
Obvs a fuck load harder as VadimBot did the original 2nd go and hasn’t managed it yet.

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#8765 Re: significant repeats
January 15, 2020, 10:32:58 pm
According to Instagram Jim Pope has flashed his first E8, Nah’han at Gardoms. The last true samurai climber continuing his sterling work.

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#8766 Re: significant repeats
January 16, 2020, 09:31:34 pm
According to Instagram Jim Pope has flashed his first E8, Nah’han at Gardoms. The last true samurai climber continuing his sterling work.

So this along with Jason's Roof means he's flashed E8 and 8A. Has he flashed 8a?

Has anyone else flashed the triple crown of E8, 8A and 8a?

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#8767 Re: significant repeats
January 16, 2020, 10:54:36 pm
According to Instagram Jim Pope has flashed his first E8, Nah’han at Gardoms. The last true samurai climber continuing his sterling work.

So this along with Jason's Roof means he's flashed E8 and 8A. Has he flashed 8a?

Has anyone else flashed the triple crown of E8, 8A and 8a?

I think Jason's is generally considered 7C+

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#8768 Re: significant repeats
January 16, 2020, 11:04:57 pm
He onsighted Kale Borroka couple of years ago.  Imagine he doesn't tend to fall off 8a's.   Nah'han sounds like it's close to the E7/8 boundary - Pope suggests E7 on his ukc log.  Great effort and presumably first time it's been flashed.  headtorch headpoint of 3 blind mice later on, from ukc log again.  Not a bad day out.   
Has anyone else flashed the triple crown of E8, 8A and 8a?
Pearson deffo
Pasquill?
can't think of many contenders

Steve R

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#8769 Re: significant repeats
January 16, 2020, 11:05:54 pm
Bransby?
Caff?

Buys
« Last Edit: January 16, 2020, 11:13:47 pm by Steve R »

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#8770 Re: significant repeats
January 17, 2020, 08:32:32 am
Nice one Pope, great to see how enthusiastic he is. Just think what he could do if he got a car...

I think I've done all the 8s onsight. Def onsighted 8A and 8a although any E8 I've done may only be flash or GU. The only time I os an 8A in the UK I got excited about doing all the 8s (also VIII) in 12 months, os or GU and all in the UK. I managed to get a sport 8a done (something at Kilnsey) but then that winter I didn't even pick up my ice axes... Think the chances of me flashing an 8A again are getting slimmer and slimmer.

Pretty sure Caff hasn't flashed 8A. Imagine Robbins has done 8a and E8 and has the ability to have done an 8A but might have spent all his time developing new things instead. Agree Jordan, Ryan or Dave Mac could well have, it's just the 8A I'm not sure about. Could also be someone like Varian or Micky P could slip on if one of the highballs gets E8.

Obv Pearsons has.

Pos Steve Mac?

On a slightly more off topic slant (and a bit more of a HALAM) I once had a pair of boots in which I had climbed 8A, 8a, E7 on grit and trad, freed El Cap in a day, and freed the 2300m (from Torre glacier) Eslovac on Fitz Roy. This was when 5.10 were good.

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#8771 Re: significant repeats
January 17, 2020, 08:56:25 am
If Robins flashed a 8A he’d downgrade it. He thinks 7C+ should take 3 sessions . .....

Bradders

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#8772 Re: significant repeats
January 17, 2020, 10:55:31 am
I think Jason's is generally considered 7C+

It's not though  :)

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#8773 Re: significant repeats
January 17, 2020, 11:02:58 am
I think Jason's is generally considered 7C+

It's not though  :)

Are you downgrading to 7C?!  :ohmy:

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#8774 Re: significant repeats
January 17, 2020, 12:53:45 pm
If Robins flashed a 8A he’d downgrade it. He thinks 7C+ should take 3 sessions . .....
Same for Jordan. He would be on the list no problems except all the 8A's he's flashed are not really 8A....

 

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