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significant repeats (Read 4237577 times)

Duncan campbell

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#8725 Re: significant repeats
November 26, 2019, 05:33:01 am
Just spoke to her. She did indeed do it! Mega effort!! Especially as she basically did it in a season and placed the gear on lead.  :strongbench:

teestub

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#8726 Re: significant repeats
November 26, 2019, 09:06:23 am
https://www.instagram.com/p/B5UdQjRHVtt/?igshid=1vx0186h9flzl Bit more info here, and some interesting goss in the comments about it not being filmed, for those who like that sort of thing  :popcorn:

SA Chris

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#8727 Re: significant repeats
November 26, 2019, 09:38:52 am
Nice. Meltdown next season.

T_B

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#8728 Re: significant repeats
November 26, 2019, 10:35:40 am
Jesus F Christ, that has to be one of the most impressive trad ascents by a British climber. Ever? 8c+ putting the gear in :weakbench:


Duma

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#8729 Re: significant repeats
November 26, 2019, 11:00:28 am
What an amazing looking climb! And pretty mental how hard it is - as per the R&I link 5.14b (8c) with the gear pre placed or 5.14c (8c+) placing it? That makes it harder than her hardest sport routes, and she says in the post that teestub linked that the lower crux is the hardest boulder problem shes done too!

duncan

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#8730 Re: significant repeats
November 26, 2019, 11:21:51 am
Incredibly impressive.

https://www.instagram.com/p/B5UdQjRHVtt/?igshid=1vx0186h9flzl Bit more info here, and some interesting goss in the comments about it not being filmed, for those who like that sort of thing  :popcorn:

HF: "reelrock were going to film but they didn't believe I could do it"  Austin Saidak (who has worked for ReelRock) says much the same thing, with a slightly different wording. This is a business decision: how much time and money do you commit to a project that might not yield any reward? A relatively small company can't back many losers. Unfortunately this is reflected in recent ReelRock output: outcomes are totally predictable from conception and the uncertainty faked in the editing is completely formulaic.     

See also: Rab dropping Emma Twyford shortly before her run of trail-blazing ascents.




remus

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#8731 Re: significant repeats
November 26, 2019, 11:23:30 am
What an amazing looking climb! And pretty mental how hard it is - as per the R&I link 5.14b (8c) with the gear pre placed or 5.14c (8c+) placing it? That makes it harder than her hardest sport routes, and she says in the post that teestub linked that the lower crux is the hardest boulder problem shes done too!

Makes her the only British woman to have climbed 8c+! (Emma T having skipped straight to 9a)

Doylo

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#8732 Re: significant repeats
November 26, 2019, 11:33:41 am
She’s proper talented. Far more so than her physical attributes.

Doylo

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#8733 Re: significant repeats
November 26, 2019, 11:36:20 am
Incredibly impressive.

https://www.instagram.com/p/B5UdQjRHVtt/?igshid=1vx0186h9flzl Bit more info here, and some interesting goss in the comments about it not being filmed, for those who like that sort of thing  :popcorn:

HF: "reelrock were going to film but they didn't believe I could do it"  Austin Saidak (who has worked for ReelRock) says much the same thing, with a slightly different wording. This is a business decision: how much time and money do you commit to a project that might not yield any reward? A relatively small company can't back many losers. Unfortunately this is reflected in recent ReelRock output: outcomes are totally predictable from conception and the uncertainty faked in the editing is completely formulaic.     

See also: Rab dropping Emma Twyford shortly before her run of trail-blazing ascents.

Is a risk filming limit climbing projects. Very high degree of uncertainty obviously so can see how it might not fit into releasing 6 films a year model.

teestub

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#8734 Re: significant repeats
November 26, 2019, 11:51:49 am
I’m surprised Hazel couldn’t find anyone knocking around Camp 4 with a DSLR, there seems to be a lot of self facilitating media nodes around there these days!

Duma

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#8735 Re: significant repeats
November 26, 2019, 11:56:47 am
self facilitating media nodes

ha! brilliant

Bradders

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#8736 Re: significant repeats
November 26, 2019, 12:00:53 pm
Fantastic achievement  :strongbench:

Incredibly impressive.

https://www.instagram.com/p/B5UdQjRHVtt/?igshid=1vx0186h9flzl Bit more info here, and some interesting goss in the comments about it not being filmed, for those who like that sort of thing  :popcorn:

HF: "reelrock were going to film but they didn't believe I could do it"  Austin Saidak (who has worked for ReelRock) says much the same thing, with a slightly different wording. This is a business decision: how much time and money do you commit to a project that might not yield any reward? A relatively small company can't back many losers. Unfortunately this is reflected in recent ReelRock output: outcomes are totally predictable from conception and the uncertainty faked in the editing is completely formulaic.     

See also: Rab dropping Emma Twyford shortly before her run of trail-blazing ascents.

Encapsulating why sponsorship and other commercial opportunities will always (and rightly so) go to people who will help companies sell their products, not just to those who climb the hardest things. Ideally those two things would always go hand in hand but that's not always the case.

Anyway, sounds to me like it's probably a certain amount of banter from Hazel being blown out of proportion. Similar thing on this post and the exchange between Caff and Hazel, which to any Brit is quite clearly friendly banter but is jumped on by the PC brigade.

https://www.instagram.com/p/B5BGNCOHQw7/?igshid=evtjt298qbf1

Bradders

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#8737 Re: significant repeats
November 26, 2019, 12:09:13 pm
Is a risk filming limit climbing projects. Very high degree of uncertainty obviously so can see how it might not fit into releasing 6 films a year model.

Then again, why should every film have a happy ending? The process and getting close etc. is surely just as riveting, or more so, than an eventual win.

SA Chris

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#8738 Re: significant repeats
November 26, 2019, 01:25:35 pm
Robin Barker on Marbellous from Hard Grit for example.

This isn't Hollywood or Disney.

shark

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#8739 Re: significant repeats
November 27, 2019, 08:23:46 am
Decent write up about Magic Line and Hazel’s ascent:

https://rockandice.com/climbing-news/hazel-findlay-does-magic-line-5-14c

Duma

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#8740 Re: significant repeats
November 27, 2019, 08:36:04 am
bmc have an item with some comment from Caff too

https://www.thebmc.co.uk/hazel-findlay-climbs-magic-line

abarro81

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#8741 Re: significant repeats
December 02, 2019, 09:29:25 am
Judging by Henning Wang's insta stories, Sindre (don't know his last name) from Norway has done Chillam Ballam


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#8743 Re: significant repeats
December 02, 2019, 11:30:16 am
Tomoa Narasaki flashes 8B+ strikes me as significant

https://www.instagram.com/p/B5iNrfEhFE2/

Orrincoley

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#8744 Re: significant repeats
December 04, 2019, 06:46:04 pm
Mat Wright did Serendipity 8B+ today

remus

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#8745 Re: significant repeats
December 04, 2019, 11:04:00 pm
Tomoa Narasaki flashes 8B+ strikes me as significant

https://www.instagram.com/p/B5iNrfEhFE2/

Didnt seem to struggle too much!


dunnyg

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#8746 Re: significant repeats
December 05, 2019, 09:59:26 am
I heard Will Hunt had a go a recons it is only 6C+

steveri

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#8747 Re: significant repeats
December 05, 2019, 03:26:10 pm
Funnily enough, I was just watching this extended (sit?) start yesterday -


Which just looks nuts.

Will Hunt

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#8748 Re: significant repeats
December 05, 2019, 03:28:57 pm
Tomoa Narasaki flashes 8B+ strikes me as significant

https://www.instagram.com/p/B5iNrfEhFE2/

Didnt seem to struggle too much!



He even does a French blow as he comes around the lip. Casual as fuck  :bow:

mr chaz

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#8749 Re: significant repeats
December 05, 2019, 08:49:59 pm
Love that United video  :strongbench:

 

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