UKBouldering.com

significant repeats (Read 4237632 times)

DAVETHOMAS90

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Dave Thomas is an annual climber to 1.7m, with strongly fragrant flowers
  • Posts: 1726
  • Karma: +166/-6
  • Don't die with your music still inside you ;)
#8675 Re: significant repeats
September 30, 2019, 10:37:24 am
Hajj 8c at the Tor, also received a very fine ascent yesterday, again at the hands on Matt Wright:



#onetowatch etc  :clap2: :2thumbsup:

Duma

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 5751
  • Karma: +226/-4
#8676 Re: significant repeats
October 06, 2019, 06:05:21 pm
Not sure if this has just happened? Shaun Raboutou, Livin Large

https://www.instagram.com/p/B3SI6aGjNV9/?igshid=xpumdnenbhv2

yetix

Offline
  • ****
  • forum abuser
  • Posts: 610
  • Karma: +33/-0
#8677 Re: significant repeats
October 09, 2019, 08:37:33 am
Sounds like The Wizard aka Dave Graham has sent Hypnotised Minds

https://www.instagram.com/p/B3Y22_Hj8AA/?igshid=1e6zex1cdl1yz

Duma

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 5751
  • Karma: +226/-4
#8678 Re: significant repeats
October 09, 2019, 09:30:38 am
Ace. With la Rambla and this done, he's not going to know what to do with himself!

andy popp

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 5525
  • Karma: +347/-5
#8679 Re: significant repeats
October 09, 2019, 04:15:57 pm
The instagram post is going to be epic!

Bradders

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 2785
  • Karma: +135/-3
#8680 Re: significant repeats
October 16, 2019, 08:12:10 pm
Not a repeat (yet, wasn't sure where else to put this) but some intriguing next level things happening in pursuit of the 2nd ascent of Burden of Dreams!

https://www.instagram.com/p/B3kOZzJBFOm/?igshid=1ubv6j1sagztc

Footwork

Offline
  • ****
  • forum abuser
  • Posts: 634
  • Karma: +63/-0
  • Living With Wads
    • Living With Wads
#8681 Re: significant repeats
October 16, 2019, 09:13:01 pm
Not a repeat (yet, wasn't sure where else to put this) but some intriguing next level things happening in pursuit of the 2nd ascent of Burden of Dreams!

https://www.instagram.com/p/B3kOZzJBFOm/?igshid=1ubv6j1sagztc

That just reminds me on Nibile asking for a replica of Malc's one armer  ;D

Fiend

Offline
  • *
  • _
  • forum hero
  • Abominable sex magick practitioner and climbing heathen
  • Posts: 13413
  • Karma: +676/-67
  • Whut
#8682 Re: significant repeats
October 16, 2019, 09:27:44 pm
Yup that IG post is pretty cool.

kingholmesy

Offline
  • ****
  • forum abuser
  • Posts: 564
  • Karma: +47/-0
#8683 Re: significant repeats
October 16, 2019, 10:31:43 pm
... although I’m glad that I’m sufficiently shit at climbing for there to be no danger of ever having a film crew like that filming me at the crag.

36chambers

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 1678
  • Karma: +154/-4
#8684 Re: significant repeats
October 16, 2019, 10:45:26 pm
I wonder if there's a worthwhile business venture for selling replica holds of famous problems. If I had a big woodie and more money than sense I'd love to have an exact replica of Burden of Dreams set up. You need to warm up somehow right?

moose

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Lankenstein's Monster
  • Posts: 2931
  • Karma: +228/-1
  • el flaco lento
#8685 Re: significant repeats
October 16, 2019, 11:05:16 pm
I wonder if there's a worthwhile business venture for selling replica holds of famous problems. If I had a big woodie and more money than sense I'd love to have an exact replica of Burden of Dreams set up. You need to warm up somehow right?

Count me out as a buyer. I'm a bit uncertain of the ethics of exact replicas - I wouldn't want to risk invalidating my flash.

Danny

Offline
  • ****
  • junky
  • Posts: 855
  • Karma: +43/-3
#8686 Re: significant repeats
October 16, 2019, 11:21:54 pm
You probably shouldn't watch those age of Ondra vids Moose. Surely sieging something in your mind over and over invalidates the flash.

Ballsofcottonwool

Offline
  • **
  • player
  • Posts: 102
  • Karma: +5/-0
#8687 Re: significant repeats
October 17, 2019, 09:41:38 am
I wonder if there's a worthwhile business venture for selling replica holds of famous problems. If I had a big woodie and more money than sense I'd love to have an exact replica of Burden of Dreams set up. You need to warm up somehow right?

I was surprised to see that the replicas of the "boulder problem" from Freerider which were set at bouldering walls around the world as part of the promotion for Free Solo, were set with standard holds rather than casts of the original rock.


Nibile

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 7991
  • Karma: +743/-4
  • Part Animal Part Machine
    • TOTOLORE
#8688 Re: significant repeats
October 17, 2019, 09:42:56 am
Not a repeat (yet, wasn't sure where else to put this) but some intriguing next level things happening in pursuit of the 2nd ascent of Burden of Dreams!

https://www.instagram.com/p/B3kOZzJBFOm/?igshid=1ubv6j1sagztc

That just reminds me on Nibile asking for a replica of Malc's one armer  ;D

Almost ten years on, it's still there.
image by Nibile, on Flickr

jwi

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 4219
  • Karma: +331/-1
    • On Steep Ground
#8689 Re: significant repeats
October 17, 2019, 09:52:01 pm
Matilda Söderlund has repeated Elder Statesman in Frankenjura, becoming the 2nd woman after Chiara Hanke  to have climbed 9a in Frankenjura (I think).

mark20

Offline
  • ****
  • junky
  • Posts: 874
  • Karma: +128/-0
#8690 Re: significant repeats
October 20, 2019, 01:05:50 pm
Nick Dixon has made the second ascent of Franco’s death route Sky Burial E9 6c at Maidens Bluff in the North Yorkshire Moors  :bow:

andy popp

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 5525
  • Karma: +347/-5
#8691 Re: significant repeats
October 20, 2019, 01:36:09 pm
Nick Dixon has made the second ascent of Franco’s death route Sky Burial E9 6c at Maidens Bluff in the North Yorkshire Moors  :bow:

I was going to post this too. Back to his roots.

Teaboy

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 1176
  • Karma: +72/-2
#8692 Re: significant repeats
October 20, 2019, 01:47:33 pm
That's astonishing! Has he spent a long time on it? IIRC from the time it was put up this is one of the most intense of Franco's routes isn't it?

andy popp

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 5525
  • Karma: +347/-5
#8693 Re: significant repeats
October 20, 2019, 02:10:43 pm
Has he spent a long time on it?

Reading between the lines on FB, two days: the 10th and then Friday. I suppose there might have been a day in between he didn't post about but I think its unlikely.

MischaHY

Offline
  • ***
  • obsessive maniac
  • Posts: 496
  • Karma: +64/-1
#8694 Re: significant repeats
October 20, 2019, 05:41:13 pm
Matilda Söderlund has repeated Elder Statesman in Frankenjura, becoming the 2nd woman after Chiara Hanke  to have climbed 9a in Frankenjura (I think).

Actually Gabriela Vrablikova climbed Sever the Wicked Hand this year so Matilda is 3rd as far as I know.

Wood FT

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 2951
  • Karma: +162/-8
#8695 Re: significant repeats
October 20, 2019, 08:28:01 pm
Nick Dixon has made the second ascent of Franco’s death route Sky Burial E9 6c at Maidens Bluff in the North Yorkshire Moors  :bow:

Blimey. That one looks like a real chop route.

Will Hunt

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Superworm is super-long
  • Posts: 7976
  • Karma: +631/-115
    • Unknown Stones
#8696 Re: significant repeats
October 20, 2019, 08:43:49 pm
Nick Dixon has made the second ascent of Franco’s death route Sky Burial E9 6c at Maidens Bluff in the North Yorkshire Moors  :bow:

Blimey. That one looks like a real chop route.

Word on the street is it might be, like, H8 6b. Piss, as far as hard routes are piss, but you really have to want to lead it!

Franco

Offline
  • **
  • menacing presence
  • Posts: 175
  • Karma: +63/-42
#8697 Re: significant repeats
October 20, 2019, 09:47:30 pm
Nick Dixon has made the second ascent of Franco’s death route Sky Burial E9 6c at Maidens Bluff in the North Yorkshire Moors  :bow:

It was an amazing effort from Nick over just two days. Quite a few people have been trying this line recently and can do it, but it's unlike any other route (in the Moors) in terms of commitment I suppose. He decided to lead it rather than solo it, as he found a skyhook. Nick's in a class of his own when it comes to mental strength and he climbed it superbly. Absolute magic seeing your childhood hero doing the second ascent like that. So cool!  It was fairly scary watching him mind.

I think the grade's settling at H8 6b ish (the only 6c move was on the start, which Nick climbed via a lower line). The route's pretty easy to top rope, but it has to be one of the worst falls on grit/sandstone and obviously committing etc. I would be amazed if it's ever climbed ground up without beta, so I think giving it an E grade is a bit silly, but I suppose it would be disproportionate to the difficulty of its moves.  Incredible that such a perfect line of holds up an arete on something like that formed though. Moors psyche is high!
« Last Edit: October 20, 2019, 10:00:00 pm by Franco »

jwi

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 4219
  • Karma: +331/-1
    • On Steep Ground
#8698 Re: significant repeats
October 20, 2019, 10:06:42 pm
Matilda Söderlund has repeated Elder Statesman in Frankenjura, becoming the 2nd woman after Chiara Hanke  to have climbed 9a in Frankenjura (I think).

Actually Gabriela Vrablikova climbed Sever the Wicked Hand this year so Matilda is 3rd as far as I know.


Thanks! I somehow forgot/missed that

Duma

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 5751
  • Karma: +226/-4
#8699 Re: significant repeats
October 23, 2019, 07:24:34 pm
Matilda Söderlund has repeated Elder Statesman in Frankenjura, becoming the 2nd woman after Chiara Hanke  to have climbed 9a in Frankenjura (I think).

nice little vid:

 

SimplePortal 2.3.7 © 2008-2024, SimplePortal