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significant repeats (Read 4231838 times)

petejh

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#8575 Re: significant repeats
July 08, 2019, 08:39:22 am
Wow! Must be up there with the hardest trad onsights in the UK?

Duncan campbell

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#8576 Re: significant repeats
July 08, 2019, 11:07:52 am
Yeah must be up there as Nightmayer seems like it’s top end E8?

Seems weird that nothing about it on UKC/Instagram/other media outlets... Saw Sir Livingstone of Latok over the weekend and he was there. In fact he gave it an audacious flash attempt after, which ended in a big whipper I think.

spidermonkey09

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#8577 Re: significant repeats
July 08, 2019, 11:34:02 am
Probably because Natalie Berry was at the BBCs over the weekend I'd have thought. Solid effort from McClure, as ever. Amazing he's still the best despite being older than everyone else.

T_B

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#8578 Re: significant repeats
July 08, 2019, 12:13:52 pm
Why is that amazing?

It's funny that people go on about Ste's age. He's not THAT old and, well, with age comes experience.

On-sighting Nightmayer would require anyone to be more than just young/bold/strong.

Wrt to his high-end sport climbing performance, his single-mindedness, focus etc is perhaps because of his age.

Anyway, great effort going on-sight above that #1 Rock.

#tenacity

spidermonkey09

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#8579 Re: significant repeats
July 08, 2019, 12:18:45 pm
Why is that amazing?

It's funny that people go on about Ste's age. He's not THAT old and, well, with age comes experience.

On-sighting Nightmayer would require anyone to be more than just young/bold/strong.

Wrt to his high-end sport climbing performance, his single-mindedness, focus etc is perhaps because of his age.

Anyway, great effort going on-sight above that #1 Rock.

#tenacity

Agree with all that! I think his (relative) age comes up because of the amount of strong young guns who are yet to challenge him. Take the point that the experience he has probably allowed to make a far more informed judgement about the quality of the #1 Rock before committing.

shark

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#8580 Re: significant repeats
July 08, 2019, 12:19:02 pm
Seems weird that nothing about it on UKC/Instagram/other media outlets...

That’s what I thought. Not sure what’s going on. Do you know for sure it was onsight? Maybe he had gear beta. He’s not talking to me.

andy popp

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#8581 Re: significant repeats
July 08, 2019, 12:24:01 pm
Ed Booth's comments on UKC (in the logbook) say it was onsight.

shark

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#8582 Re: significant repeats
July 08, 2019, 12:27:32 pm
Good sleuthing though it was Tom Livingstone that posted that

andy popp

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#8583 Re: significant repeats
July 08, 2019, 12:41:21 pm
You're right, though Ed was there too. Ed has clearly been on it quite a bit so must have had to keep very quiet at the crag on the day.

Duncan campbell

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#8584 Re: significant repeats
July 08, 2019, 12:51:56 pm
Don’t know 100% that it was a pure onsight but Tom did say it was so I’m taking his word for it... what you done to upset him shark?  :worms:

andy_e

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#8585 Re: significant repeats
July 08, 2019, 01:18:24 pm
Accused Steve of short-roping you shark?

shark

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#8586 Re: significant repeats
July 08, 2019, 03:27:54 pm
Seems like Keith wanted to keep it under wraps for the big reveal  :lol:

Quote from: Steve Mac
Funny seeing comments about keeping it together above the rock 1... I never found it... so felt very spicy. Was onsight I'd say. Only guide book knowledge plus I'd heard there was a skyhook but didn't know where, so I took one and very glad I did..

Duncan campbell

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#8587 Re: significant repeats
July 08, 2019, 04:22:16 pm
Ha  :oops:. Had a feeling it might be something like that but this was after posting on here and Tom didn’t say to keep it quiet so  :shrug:

sharpholds

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#8588 Re: significant repeats
July 08, 2019, 04:29:54 pm
all will be revealed shortly...

Will Hunt

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#8589 Re: significant repeats
July 08, 2019, 04:42:03 pm
Did someone describe it in the logbooks as E8.9? If it's a proper onsight (bar any quibbles about gear knowledge), does that make it the hardest onsight in the UK?

Doylo

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#8590 Re: significant repeats
July 08, 2019, 04:54:39 pm
Hardest onsight by a non-trad climber?

Fiend

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#8591 Re: significant repeats
July 08, 2019, 05:35:30 pm
LOL!!

Anyone know the rough proportion of interviews / films / articles with Steve Mac where he claims to not be a trad climber, versus the number where he claims that everyone knows him as a sport climber but really he's always been a trad climber?? Probably pretty equal.

At the end of the day he's a world class climber with trad skills and 8b/+ onsighting ability. Good on him for applying it to stuff like this.

cheque

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#8592 Re: significant repeats
July 08, 2019, 05:51:55 pm
LOL!!

Anyone know the rough proportion of interviews / films / articles with Steve Mac where he claims to not be a trad climber, versus the number where he claims that everyone knows him as a sport climber but really he's always been a trad climber?? Probably pretty equal.

Up there with the number of films where Daniel Woods pretends he’s never been sport climbing before.

petejh

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#8593 Re: significant repeats
July 08, 2019, 05:59:05 pm
And probably similar to the proportion of films where John Redhead chases old ladies while wearing a giant paper-mache erect cock. Versus films where he masturbates at the top of a cathedral spire after soloing it.
:smartass:
« Last Edit: July 08, 2019, 06:11:14 pm by petejh »

Doylo

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#8594 Re: significant repeats
July 08, 2019, 06:25:09 pm
And Steve’s weak but I guess you can get away with that a bit more on trad.

abarro81

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#8595 Re: significant repeats
July 08, 2019, 06:44:36 pm
LOL!!

Anyone know the rough proportion of interviews / films / articles with Steve Mac where he claims to not be a trad climber, versus the number where he claims that everyone knows him as a sport climber but really he's always been a trad climber?? Probably pretty equal.

Up there with the number of films where Daniel Woods pretends he’s never been sport climbing before.

Beat me to it. There's nothing like chatting bollocks to make you sound humble whilst simultaneously effectively claiming to be even better than people think you are.

gme

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#8596 Re: significant repeats
July 08, 2019, 10:25:39 pm
And Steve’s weak but I guess you can get away with that a bit more on trad.
He’s only weak because he doesn’t train.

duncan

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#8597 Re: significant repeats
July 10, 2019, 11:16:23 am

Fiend

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#8598 Re: significant repeats
July 10, 2019, 11:30:45 am
Great stuff.

Onsighting is goooood mmmmkay  :w00t:

T_B

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#8599 Re: significant repeats
July 10, 2019, 02:22:52 pm
I guess it depends whatever floats your boat, but for me this is the most inspiring bit of news in a long time. Vert 8a on that rock means pulling on some utter toss holds and standing on some v tenuous feet. Making it up as you go. Looking for the gear. Taking a hand off to fiddle with yer rack whilst hanging onto some bag o shite. Jaysuz!

 

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