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significant repeats (Read 4235149 times)

Fiend

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#8550 Re: significant repeats
June 21, 2019, 12:31:09 pm
With some of these fucking scrawnomorphs, who knows?? Not Ned tho.

I think it's more about radically improving conditions on "never in optimum condition" problems. Obviously portable air con unit AND de-humidifier hooked up to a generator would be ideal too.

Doylo

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#8551 Re: significant repeats
June 21, 2019, 12:36:35 pm
Future guidebooks will have fan grades. Bordello Sit 8C (8B/+ F)

teestub

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#8552 Re: significant repeats
June 21, 2019, 01:07:14 pm

Still no repeats of Mike's Mixed Emotions at Kay Nest. Seven years and counting...

I know a few people who have been for a look and haven’t gone back again!

Will Hunt

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#8553 Re: significant repeats
June 21, 2019, 01:07:39 pm
With some of these fucking scrawnomorphs, who knows?? Not Ned tho.

I think it's more about radically improving conditions on "never in optimum condition" problems. Obviously portable air con unit AND de-humidifier hooked up to a generator would be ideal too.

You've jokingly stumbled upon the future. Plastic tent (like the police have at outdoor forensics scenes), preferably of clear-ish plastic like in E.T., with a fan and portable de-humidifier and air-conditioner. Entirely feasible, fairly easy to set up, and you could climate control it to very low humidities and temperatures.

cheque

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#8554 Re: significant repeats
June 21, 2019, 01:16:22 pm
If the reaction to Fiend’s throwaway “800 8As” comment is anything to go by there are at least a few people driving generators out to the crags as we speak.

petejh

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#8555 Re: significant repeats
June 21, 2019, 01:19:47 pm

You've jokingly stumbled upon the future. Plastic tent (like the police have at outdoor forensics scenes), preferably of clear-ish plastic like in E.T., with a fan and portable de-humidifier and air-conditioner. Entirely feasible, fairly easy to set up, and you could climate control it to very low humidities and temperatures.

Black-out version available for lamp sessions. Royalties payable to Petejh Industries.

lagerstarfish

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#8556 Re: significant repeats
June 21, 2019, 01:41:00 pm
looking forward to the "what's the lowest grade you've seen someone use a fan on?" thread

followed by the usual "well why shouldn't us punters use the same tactics as Wad X?"

r-man

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#8557 Re: significant repeats
June 21, 2019, 01:55:00 pm
I think it's more about radically improving conditions on "never in optimum condition" problems.

Exactly. Some beta changes probably made a difference too on this one. But if you can have some control over the conditions, it stands to reason that with low percentage moves on smeggy rock, fans will help.

And "game changer" is a phrase I borrowed from another wad who was raving about his new fan.

(I was sold. I bought one. I have a specific project in mind, but haven't properly tested it yet...)

DAVETHOMAS90

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#8558 Re: significant repeats
June 21, 2019, 01:55:51 pm
looking forward to the "what's the lowest grade you've seen someone use a fan on?" thread

followed by the usual "well why shouldn't us punters use the same tactics as Wad X?"

Fantastic.

This looks suspiciously fan assisted to me:  :-\


r-man

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#8559 Re: significant repeats
June 21, 2019, 02:15:06 pm

Still no repeats of Mike's Mixed Emotions at Kay Nest. Seven years and counting...

I know a few people who have been for a look and haven’t gone back again!

Translation... I've heard some beasts have tried it and got shut down.  ;)

Plattsy

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#8560 Re: significant repeats
June 21, 2019, 02:28:00 pm

You've jokingly stumbled upon the future. Plastic tent (like the police have at outdoor forensics scenes), preferably of clear-ish plastic like in E.T., with a fan and portable de-humidifier and air-conditioner. Entirely feasible, fairly easy to set up, and you could climate control it to very low humidities and temperatures.

Black-out version available for lamp sessions. Royalties payable to Petejh Industries.
The Boycotts of the bouldering world chuttering on about covered boulders being easier to play on than the uncovered boulders they used to play on back in the day.

tomtom

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#8561 Re: significant repeats
June 21, 2019, 03:08:10 pm
looking forward to the "what's the lowest grade you've seen someone use a fan on?" thread

followed by the usual "well why shouldn't us punters use the same tactics as Wad X?"

(I don't own a fan but have considered it)
I think for the most part using fans makes a session in crap conditions / zero wind / condensy day feasible rather than having to go home. Probably better for the world to use a bit of energy to blow air on a crag than have to make the same journey there and back again...

cheque

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#8562 Re: significant repeats
June 21, 2019, 03:26:12 pm
I can’t believe you dinosaurs aren’t already climbing with these



taped to your wrists and ankles. Marginal gains innit.

cowboyhat

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#8563 Re: significant repeats
June 21, 2019, 08:52:52 pm
I can't pull on to Shadowplay anywhere meaningful, neither could Aidan on Shadowplay, like i say it's a slight issue it either not getting sorted or other people not putting the time in on his problems to show just how unbelievably amazing he was. God only knows i tried, 2008 i loved the G and did little Women after John, Si O'connors slight sandbag 8A remember (another unbelievable athlete who's problems john made the only repeats of in kentmere if you all remember rightly), i trained and trained and fucking trained and i still couldn't pull on in 2013 when i was going like a tank. kind of lost the will after that a bit when i still couldn't pull on but could do some pretty impressive deadhangs etc. All hail the G, strength beyond compare. He crimped off all his hairs, he used them for one armers until there was nothing there.

Just wondering how to collectively refer to these true believers;

Jonnies?
Gastons?
Christians?

How do you refer to yourselves at the annual Pill Box meet Doyle?

Doylo

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#8564 Re: significant repeats
June 21, 2019, 10:43:29 pm
The G-lievers.  Talking of Pill Box there’s a unrepeated 8a+/b there that’s really 8c.

jwi

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#8565 Re: significant repeats
June 22, 2019, 11:14:53 pm

jwi

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#8566 Re: significant repeats
June 24, 2019, 12:08:18 pm
Chiara Hanke has repeated Markus Bock's "Sever the wicked hand" becoming the first woman to have done a 9a in the Frankenjura. Source: https://www.planetmountain.com/en/news/climbing/chiara-hanke-frankenjura-becomes-first-german-woman-to-climb-9a.html

Previously Angela Eiter, Lena Herrmann, Kajsa Rosén, Gabriela Vrablíková and Sarah Kampf have all done Battle Cat 8c+* in Frankenjura.



SA Chris

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#8567 Re: significant repeats
June 27, 2019, 10:30:48 pm
I can’t believe you dinosaurs aren’t already climbing with these



taped to your wrists and ankles. Marginal gains innit.

Sorry, not a big fan.

shurt

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#8568 Re: significant repeats
June 28, 2019, 07:47:26 am
I can’t believe you dinosaurs aren’t already climbing with these



taped to your wrists and ankles. Marginal gains innit.

Sorry, not a big fan.

You're a big something...

davej

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#8569 Re: significant repeats
June 28, 2019, 07:08:54 pm
any fan recommendations  ;D

tomtom

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#8570 Re: significant repeats
June 28, 2019, 07:45:28 pm
36Chambers? His stalking skills seem on point 😃

Teaboy

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#8571 Re: significant repeats
July 07, 2019, 09:17:08 am
I'm not sure what grade this settled at but a fantastic effort by Lucy again regardless.

https://www.instagram.com/p/Bzl9r0Qjfdf/?igshid=17l1h6oeypk8c
« Last Edit: July 07, 2019, 09:31:51 am by Teaboy »

Wood FT

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#8572 Re: significant repeats
July 07, 2019, 10:12:54 am
Agreed

Duma

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#8573 Re: significant repeats
July 07, 2019, 10:13:22 am
Brilliant!

Duncan campbell

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#8574 Re: significant repeats
July 08, 2019, 08:03:49 am
Don’t know if this got posted elsewhere but haven’t seen it. Steve McClure onsighted Nightmayer up on the cromlech on Friday/at some point last week.

Pretty impressive ascent that. Obvs 8a is piss for him but it still sounds pretty bold and hard to read/find the gear. In the jam crack with Emma Twyford she said an onsight would be hard/unlikely


 

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