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significant repeats (Read 2806154 times)

RobinB

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#8425 Re: significant repeats
March 26, 2019, 09:40:30 am
Quote
I clamped both hands over my ears with the ropes held lightly in one hand. I was mightily relieved that he didnt fall off.
Thanks for the belay Ben - sorry I faffed around for so long you couldn't try Overhanging crack at Bowden that day.
In terms of the grade, I suspect I was a bit over-zealous with suggesting 6c and 7a is likely the correct grade. In previous discussions with Malcolm I think we agreed something like E8 / 7a / 8b / 7C+.
Regardless of the grade, Transcendence is a very fine line with superb climbing and a might good effort from Malcolm at the time. Well done to Dan for repeating it and the kind words on UKC - hopefully the route will now see a few more repeats.

Cheers

Robin Barker

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#8426 Re: significant repeats
March 26, 2019, 09:49:37 am
Thanks for the belay Ben - sorry I faffed around for so long you couldn't try Overhanging crack at Bowden that day.
In terms of the grade

Quite possibly a relief for FD!!

Incidentally I was hanging out at Marble Wall the other night and fuck me I can see why Marbellous / Mother Of Pearl have held out for so long, very imposingly blank.

El Mocho

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#8427 Re: significant repeats
March 26, 2019, 02:01:13 pm
Incidentally I was hanging out at Marble Wall the other night and fuck me I can see why Marbellous / Mother Of Pearl have held out for so long, very imposingly blank.

Quite. Some beta/full training schedule/talent transfer would be appreciated  ;)

Johnny Brown

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#8428 Re: significant repeats
March 26, 2019, 02:20:32 pm
I thought it was just a case of making a little wooden step?

shark

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#8429 Re: significant repeats
March 26, 2019, 06:20:04 pm
I've split out discussion of Franco's ascent of the Young to a new topic here

jwi

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#8430 Re: significant repeats
March 26, 2019, 10:33:39 pm
Sachi Amma has repeated Chris Sharma's Stoking the Fire, 9b. https://www.instagram.com/p/BvfNgDFnEfw/

This was Amma's third 9b, and the third repeat of the route after Ondra and Shubert.


Falling Down

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#8431 Re: significant repeats
March 28, 2019, 04:44:48 pm
Thanks for the belay Ben - sorry I faffed around for so long you couldn't try Overhanging crack at Bowden that day.

Like Fiend said, you probably did me a favour Robin. Hope alls well with you and the family. 

monkey boy

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#8432 Re: significant repeats
March 30, 2019, 08:44:32 am
https://www.youtube.com/watch?time_continue=242&v=NTqfIcUq95Q

He makes the top out look harder than the 'hard' bit  :lol:

Duma

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#8433 Re: significant repeats
April 02, 2019, 08:14:19 am
Maddy Cope repeated Prinzip Hoffnung (8b+ trad) this morning.

From her Insta story
https://instagram.com/madeleine_cope?utm_source=ig_profile_share&igshid=1b1orx7wx7yqt

Wood FT

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#8434 Re: significant repeats
April 02, 2019, 10:20:29 am
Maddy Cope repeated Prinzip Hoffnung (8b+ trad) this morning.

From her Insta story
https://instagram.com/madeleine_cope?utm_source=ig_profile_share&igshid=1b1orx7wx7yqt

Thats ace news

Duncan campbell

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#8435 Re: significant repeats
April 02, 2019, 06:53:15 pm
Such an ace effort Mads! Apparently the Quill is going for a look from the ground tomorrow!

Also...

Some American dude called Jim Reynolds has just free soloed Fitz Roy soloing it both up and down (aka didnt abseil it!!!!)

Thought I read somewhere it might have been onsight too. The grade is a lot lower than freerider but not abbing it is pretty crazy.

Apparently he marked the slabs with chalk so he could downclimb them only to find them wet (!) and the chalk gone (!!) on his way down. Pretty crazy stuff.

andy_e

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#8436 Re: significant repeats
April 02, 2019, 06:59:39 pm
Strong by Maddie. That Jim Reynolds thing sounds seriously gnarly.

Doylo

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#8437 Re: significant repeats
April 03, 2019, 08:05:21 am
Pretty legendary ascent by Maddie. 8b+ on trad  :o

bendavison

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#8438 Re: significant repeats
April 03, 2019, 08:09:54 am
From 8a.nu:
Maddy Cope repeated Prinzip Hoffnung (8b+ trad) this morning.


From 8a.nu:
Quote from: Maddy
"The route is a dream line, one that you see pictures of your climbing hero's on but never think you will actually do it yourself. Great insecure moves with a safe but long fall. Coming from Oliana it was a nice change of angle! It has been hot so I first tried to lead the route by head torch, but today got up to try at first light which was better... I was just being lazy.

I had 3 sessions just on top rope and then had 4 lead tries over an evening/night and a morning so took some good falls.

jwi

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#8439 Re: significant repeats
April 04, 2019, 09:48:55 pm
Luicen Martinez has done the second repeat, after Adam Ondra, of Chris Sharma's "Three Degrees of Separation" 9a/a+ in Cse.

There is a fairly hilarious video of Martinez and Albert in Cse in the winter, showing some attempts

Wood FT

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#8440 Re: significant repeats
April 05, 2019, 07:35:57 am
Luicen Martinez has done the second repeat, after Adam Ondra, of Chris Sharma's "Three Degrees of Separation" 9a/a+ in Cse.

There is a fairly hilarious video of Martinez and Albert in Cse in the winter, showing some attempts


Ah sod the cons, that looked absolutely freezing. Good to see wads absolutely spoon their skin and get blood everywhere too.

spidermonkey09

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#8441 Re: significant repeats
April 05, 2019, 08:58:03 am
Luicen Martinez has done the second repeat, after Adam Ondra, of Chris Sharma's "Three Degrees of Separation" 9a/a+ in Cse.

There is a fairly hilarious video of Martinez and Albert in Cse in the winter, showing some attempts


Good to see this. Saw him trying it last summer and having an enormous paddy!

36chambers

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#8442 Re: significant repeats
April 05, 2019, 09:27:45 am
Really enjoyed that video, cheers for sharing

Duma

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#8443 Re: significant repeats
April 05, 2019, 09:34:17 am
That is hilarious, thanks jwi

grimer

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#8444 Re: significant repeats
April 05, 2019, 10:06:54 am
Barefoot Charles is such a gas!

petejh

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#8445 Re: significant repeats
April 05, 2019, 12:29:03 pm
Loved this film! A glimpse into the mad world of projecting.

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#8446 Re: significant repeats
April 05, 2019, 01:42:28 pm
Wheres the funny bit? Struggling to find it.

Duma

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#8447 Re: significant repeats
April 05, 2019, 02:51:14 pm
Thanks for your input dan

Duma

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#8448 Re: significant repeats
April 05, 2019, 04:04:42 pm
« Last Edit: April 05, 2019, 04:11:07 pm by Duma »

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#8449 Re: significant repeats
April 05, 2019, 04:39:28 pm
Hey cmon.... I was being serious. I couldnt find the funny bit.

 

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