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significant repeats (Read 3494646 times)

beast

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#8375 Re: significant repeats
March 16, 2019, 07:28:21 pm
Mayby second ascent to "No Kpote Only" wasn't a mistake or luck at all...

"ryohei_kame: Today, I send "La Révolutionnaire" (8c+/v16 ) ! 2nd ascent. I'm really happy!"

https://www.instagram.com/p/BvFHwMLB05c/?utm_source=ig_web_copy_link

Doylo

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#8376 Re: significant repeats
March 16, 2019, 07:31:39 pm
Who said it was a mistake or lucky?

jwi

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#8377 Re: significant repeats
March 16, 2019, 07:47:32 pm
The 9A grade seems to have been a mistake, non?

In slightly less significant news, Gonzalo Larrocha just did the 26th recorded ascent of La Ramla. La Ramla is his second 9a+. (https://www.instagram.com/p/BvEHQYxl9AU/)

finbarrr

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#8378 Re: significant repeats
March 17, 2019, 10:28:34 am
The 9A grade seems to have been a mistake, non?

In slightly less significant news, Gonzalo Larrocha just did the 26th recorded ascent of La Ramla. La Ramla is his second 9a+. (https://www.instagram.com/p/BvEHQYxl9AU/)

the 9a+ seems to be a mistake too ,no?
 ;)

sorry to say i'm still reading 8a.nooo
and jens knows la rambla should be 9a, but for grade inflation

edited to reflect jens' statement better

Doylo

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#8379 Re: significant repeats
March 17, 2019, 10:31:28 am
Pretty funny they try and make a 50m route up a massive wall an eliminate.

jwi

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#8380 Re: significant repeats
March 17, 2019, 03:38:27 pm
It's a shambles.

Duma

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Duma

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#8383 Re: significant repeats
March 22, 2019, 05:26:34 pm
Ha! Oops.


monkoffunk

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#8385 Re: significant repeats
March 23, 2019, 08:20:22 am
Ryohei Kameyama has repeated Délire Onirique assis. Most significant for being the first ascent wearing a whole pair of shoes and without the figure four it appears.

https://www.instagram.com/p/BvU17ueBjgi/?utm_source=ig_share_sheet&igshid=9bdg4z15isc1

i_a_coops

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#8386 Re: significant repeats
March 25, 2019, 10:08:31 am
Rhoslyn Frugtniet did The Death Star 8c at Cheddar yesterday :strongbench:

Duma

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#8387 Re: significant repeats
March 25, 2019, 10:30:15 am
Excellent news! Though from watching her lap the lower half repeatedly the other day not that surprising

Even if it is blinkered nonsense

T_B

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andy popp

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#8389 Re: significant repeats
March 25, 2019, 06:13:36 pm
Great write up about the 3rd ascent of Transcendence:

https://www.ukclimbing.com/news/2019/03/dan_varian_makes_the_third_ascent_of_transcendence_e8_6c-71896

Robin was/is such a beast. Good to see him getting proper acknowledgement.

Falling Down

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#8390 Re: significant repeats
March 25, 2019, 10:12:58 pm
Great write up about the 3rd ascent of Transcendence:

https://www.ukclimbing.com/news/2019/03/dan_varian_makes_the_third_ascent_of_transcendence_e8_6c-71896

Robin was/is such a beast. Good to see him getting proper acknowledgement.

I held Robin’s ropes when he repeated it.  I’ll always remember because he was mid crux and then slapping for the break when a RAF Tornado roared past the crag a few meters away with a body shaking, terrifying, ear splitting boom just as he grabbed the break with one hand just as I clamped both of mine over my ears with the ropes held lightly in one hand. I was mightily relieved that he didn’t fall off.  Great days 😳
« Last Edit: March 25, 2019, 10:23:34 pm by Falling Down »

Will Hunt

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#8391 Re: significant repeats
March 25, 2019, 10:15:02 pm
I clamped both hands over my ears with the ropes held lightly in one hand. I was mightily relieved that he didn’t fall off.  Great days 😳

E10!

andy popp

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#8392 Re: significant repeats
March 25, 2019, 10:17:15 pm

tomtom

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#8393 Re: significant repeats
March 25, 2019, 10:21:12 pm
Amazing story Ben!

SA Chris

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#8394 Re: significant repeats
March 26, 2019, 09:33:32 am
RAF Tornado roared past the crag a few meters away with a body shaking, terrifying, ear splitting boom

I've had that at Bowden, though leading a lowly VS (The Scoop IIRC). Shat me up good and proper.

RobinB

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#8395 Re: significant repeats
March 26, 2019, 09:40:30 am
Quote
I clamped both hands over my ears with the ropes held lightly in one hand. I was mightily relieved that he didn’t fall off.
Thanks for the belay Ben - sorry I faffed around for so long you couldn't try Overhanging crack at Bowden that day.
In terms of the grade, I suspect I was a bit over-zealous with suggesting 6c and 7a is likely the correct grade. In previous discussions with Malcolm I think we agreed something like E8 / 7a / 8b / 7C+.
Regardless of the grade, Transcendence is a very fine line with superb climbing and a might good effort from Malcolm at the time. Well done to Dan for repeating it and the kind words on UKC - hopefully the route will now see a few more repeats.

Cheers

Robin Barker

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#8396 Re: significant repeats
March 26, 2019, 09:49:37 am
Thanks for the belay Ben - sorry I faffed around for so long you couldn't try Overhanging crack at Bowden that day.
In terms of the grade

Quite possibly a relief for FD!!

Incidentally I was hanging out at Marble Wall the other night and fuck me I can see why Marbellous / Mother Of Pearl have held out for so long, very imposingly blank.

El Mocho

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#8397 Re: significant repeats
March 26, 2019, 02:01:13 pm
Incidentally I was hanging out at Marble Wall the other night and fuck me I can see why Marbellous / Mother Of Pearl have held out for so long, very imposingly blank.

Quite. Some beta/full training schedule/talent transfer would be appreciated  ;)

Johnny Brown

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#8398 Re: significant repeats
March 26, 2019, 02:20:32 pm
I thought it was just a case of making a little wooden step?

shark

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#8399 Re: significant repeats
March 26, 2019, 06:20:04 pm
I've split out discussion of Franco's ascent of the Young to a new topic here

 

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