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significant repeats (Read 2132751 times)

jwi

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#8325 Re: significant repeats
December 07, 2018, 04:39:55 pm
I don't doubt that he's done this. However, given that he's claiming an 8C+, presumably climbed by doing a massive move off precisely fuck all, why is nobody giving him shit for not producing a video?

Grimper is kind-of giving him a slight censure
Quote from: Lucien M
Comme à son habitude, Charles a probablement une vidéo de l'ascension mais il préfère cultiver le mystère en ne divulguant qu'une misérable photo du bloc nu. Ne nous méprenons pas, comme toutes celles signées Charles Albert, cette ascension doit être prise très au sérieux ; sa crédibilité n'est plus à démontrer.
« Last Edit: December 07, 2018, 04:46:22 pm by jwi »

36chambers

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#8326 Re: significant repeats
December 07, 2018, 04:48:16 pm
Grimper is kind-of giving him a slight censure
Quote from: Lucien M
Comme à son habitude, Charles a probablement une vidéo de l'ascension mais il préfère cultiver le mystère en ne divulguant qu'une misérable photo du bloc nu. Ne nous méprenons pas, comme toutes celles signées Charles Albert, cette ascension doit être prise très au sérieux ; sa crédibilité n'est plus à démontrer.

Quote from: Google translate
As usual, Charles probably has a video of the climb but he prefers to cultivate the mystery by only revealing a miserable photo of the nude block. Do not misunderstand, like all those signed Charles Albert, this climb must be taken very seriously; its credibility is well established.

:)

jwi

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#8327 Re: significant repeats
December 07, 2018, 04:56:40 pm
Yeah machine translation has gotten so good I can no longer be bothered to translate. Only five small errors (and a very French sentence structure in the second paragraph, that the machine couldn't really handle).

As usual, Charles probably has a video of the climb but he prefers to cultivate the mystery by only revealing a miserable photo of the nude block bare boulder. Do not misunderstand [us], like all those signed done by Charles Albert, this climb ascent must be taken very seriously; its his credibility is well established.

36chambers

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#8328 Re: significant repeats
December 07, 2018, 05:11:53 pm
Cheers for that. Although it's a shame "nude block" isn't the correct translation.

Doylo

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#8329 Re: significant repeats
December 07, 2018, 06:30:28 pm
Sick hard obviously but doesn’t look like a classic line.

mr chaz

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#8330 Re: significant repeats
December 08, 2018, 09:07:19 am
Hard 8a with shoes

Nibile

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#8331 Re: significant repeats
December 08, 2018, 05:58:09 pm
Stefano Ghisolfi climbed Perfecto Mundo 9b+ in Margalef.

jwi

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#8332 Re: significant repeats
December 08, 2018, 08:35:17 pm
Stefano Ghisolfi has done the 1st repeat of Perfecto Mundo, becoming the 4th human to climb 9b+.

https://www.instagram.com/p/BrF3P7uHccg/

(And Grimper magazine has just declared 9a+ to be unremarkable)

Stefano Ghisolfi climbed Perfecto Mundo 9b+ in Margalef.

Too late ;)

Nibile

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#8333 Re: significant repeats
December 09, 2018, 12:59:13 pm
I'm Italian so my post count more.
 ;)

SA Chris

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#8334 Re: significant repeats
December 10, 2018, 10:19:38 am
been useful to benchmark how high the ground is so that once a few inches of erosion have happened in the future we'll know where your arse needs to be to repeat it.

Surely it's time to start doing that shit with lasers and all.

Orrincoley

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#8335 Re: significant repeats
December 13, 2018, 05:41:53 pm
Nathan Phillips did Gecko Assis 8B+ today. Along with countless other 8Bs and an 8B/+ in the last 2 weeks across Switzerland and France...

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bendavison

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#8337 Re: significant repeats
January 05, 2019, 06:36:54 pm
Jakob Schubert's done Neanderthal 9b

https://www.instagram.com/p/Br8ZYCPBEet/?utm_source=ig_share_sheet&igshid=16ftdp2ubu6ji

:strongbench: :strongbench: beast!


Not sure if it's significant, but from 8a.spew Orrin Coley has done Voyager sit. Must have had quite a few repeats now? Clearly didn't eat enough turkey over Christmas.
Quote from: Orrin's 8a logbook
A dream. And a brilliant process of working it. Saw progress every session and it ended up being a really positive relaxed experience. No send pressure, no time stress or anxiety. Just progression and execution.
https://www.8a.nu/scorecard/orrin-coley/boulders/?AscentClass=0&AscentListTimeInterval=1&AscentListViewType=0&GID=fc29d1398aa1a267977e0ea36286dce7

Teaboy

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#8338 Re: significant repeats
January 06, 2019, 08:14:01 pm
IIRC unlike Wizard Ridge and the wall right of Ulysses it's actually been TRed by someone in a one'r (can't remember who) but is obviously total death.

I doubt anybody is still interested in who top roped the direct to Meshuga but Andy Brown did (this was before Meshuga had been climbed) as it seemed like the "true" line. Four full on slappy moves from where Seb starts to slap out right. 8b in retrospect he said.

36chambers

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#8339 Re: significant repeats
January 06, 2019, 08:20:31 pm
Not sure if it's significant, but from 8a.spew Orrin Coley has done Voyager sit. Must have had quite a few repeats now? Clearly didn't eat enough turkey over Christmas.

I'd say it's definitely significant. Isn't it the hardest problem on grit?

Kudos Orrin :strongbench:

shark

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#8340 Re: significant repeats
January 10, 2019, 12:56:13 pm
News piece on Orrin Coley’s ascent

https://www.climber.co.uk/news/latest-news/orrin-coley-repeats-voyager-sit.html


“The sit is certainly a step up..”

Can’t disagree with that

Wood FT

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#8341 Re: significant repeats
January 16, 2019, 08:04:01 pm
Are we moving in 8c+ being unnewsworthy?

Anyway, Luke Dawson of the prolific Dawson brothers has repeated 'Joe Blau', Oliana. The Lee brothers of a new generation.

Duma

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#8342 Re: significant repeats
February 02, 2019, 06:18:00 am
Nalle's done Sleepwalker (source Daniel Woods insta story)

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#8343 Re: significant repeats
February 02, 2019, 09:04:37 am
Are we moving in 8c+ being unnewsworthy?

Anyway, Luke Dawson of the prolific Dawson brothers has repeated 'Joe Blau', Oliana. The Lee brothers of a new generation.

I would say 8c+ is still significant if it's a Brit + I like to know who's cranking hard in the UK :)

Well done luke :punk:

shark

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#8344 Re: significant repeats
February 02, 2019, 09:11:51 am
Nalle's done Sleepwalker (source Daniel Woods insta story)

Charles passes on his apologies. He's got a puncture

jwi

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#8345 Re: significant repeats
February 02, 2019, 09:43:05 am
Nalle's done Sleepwalker (source Daniel Woods insta story)

Charles passes on his apologies. He's got a puncture
haha. Someone is trying to avoid typing Hukkataival

36chambers

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#8346 Re: significant repeats
February 02, 2019, 09:50:12 am
Nalle's done Sleepwalker (source Daniel Woods insta story)

According to a lil interview with Woods on 8a.nu, Woods has been working the sitter to it...

"Currently I am working to link a three moves 8A+ Sit Sleepwalker. The Sit is logical and completes the whole block and this was Nalle's (Hukkatiaval) original vision. It definitively levels it up."

Exciting times for top end bouldering recently. Footage of the FA of the low start to Off The Wagon V16 will come out on Monday too!

jwi

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#8347 Re: significant repeats
February 02, 2019, 12:36:42 pm

haha. Someone is trying to avoid typing Hukkataival

Quote from: Mr Woods
"Currently I am working to link a three moves 8A+ Sit Sleepwalker. The Sit is logical and completes the whole block and this was Nalle's (Hukkatiaval) original vision. It definitively levels it up."


Woods is clearly not afraid of giving it a shot...

(

andy_e

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#8348 Re: significant repeats
February 05, 2019, 12:23:54 pm
Exciting times for top end bouldering recently.

Very much so. Isn't Jimmy close to the sit to the Island?

gme

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#8349 Re: significant repeats
February 05, 2019, 12:42:29 pm
Both off the wagon and sleepwalker look amazing. What boulder problems in your dreams look like. Ditto Lappnor thing.

Cant say the same about the font new thing unfortunately.

I think bouldering is going to be pushed the next few years as the main protagonists seem to work together and none are interested in the Olympics. Where as route climbing is not going anywhere for a few years due to the Olympics, but hopefully the training they all do for that sets it up for a big jump in 2021.