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significant repeats (Read 4292535 times)

jwi

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#8100 Re: significant repeats
October 09, 2018, 09:50:45 am
In other news, Jan Hojer has actually done Es Pontas. 3rd ascent after Chris Sharma and Jernej Kruder, I believe.
Source: Instagram @janhojer
Interview on Rock & Ice where Hojer confirm the grade (9a+, but hard to work).

Fiend

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#8101 Re: significant repeats
October 09, 2018, 10:11:10 am
Nice, good effort.

Ged

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#8102 Re: significant repeats
October 09, 2018, 01:49:51 pm
Interesting that it sounds like they both stuck a rope on the top, I seem to remember shama down climbed from the top to look holds, but never used a rope. Am I imagining that?

Never really sure what style he uses. From the (excellent) reel rock film, he never seems to be on a rope, but there's lots of tick marks around. Done by someone else?

Just out of interest really. Great efforts either way.

Fiend

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#8103 Re: significant repeats
October 09, 2018, 02:12:04 pm
In an interview / report about Alasha he said he eventually resorted to a rope as it was too hard to work.

monkey boy

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#8104 Re: significant repeats
October 15, 2018, 07:50:58 am
Mina did Raining Bats and Dogs at Malham yesterday. Seems to be considered top end 8c and might get a + elsewhere.

remus

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#8105 Re: significant repeats
October 15, 2018, 09:32:12 am
Mina did Raining Bats and Dogs at Malham yesterday. Seems to be considered top end 8c and might get a + elsewhere.

Wad. The strongest sport climbing lady the UK has ever seen! https://github.com/bourbonspecial/UKStrongPeople/blob/master/women_routes.md

Nibile

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#8106 Re: significant repeats
October 15, 2018, 01:53:03 pm
It's brilliant when, to prove a statement, you link to an external website that links back to UKB.
It's called "The Self-Sufficiency Principle of UKB".

Anyway, legend. Also for ticking UK nasty routes.

Wood FT

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#8107 Re: significant repeats
October 15, 2018, 05:50:27 pm
Mina did Raining Bats and Dogs at Malham yesterday. Seems to be considered top end 8c and might get a + elsewhere.

That’s awesome, Mawson 8c  :bow:

bigironhorse

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#8108 Re: significant repeats
October 24, 2018, 07:01:14 pm
Stu has done Evolution!  :beer2: :strongbench:

Andy F

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#8109 Re: significant repeats
October 24, 2018, 07:36:53 pm
Beast  :strongbench:

TobyD

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#8110 Re: significant repeats
October 24, 2018, 11:13:25 pm
Stu has done Evolution!  :beer2: :strongbench:

Nice one Stu.

grimer

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#8111 Re: significant repeats
October 25, 2018, 10:24:12 am
And Jim Pope did Meshuga wearing one of those helmets they wore in the 1980s.

andy_e

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#8112 Re: significant repeats
October 25, 2018, 10:25:25 am
Stu has done Evolution!  :beer2: :strongbench:

 :strongbench:

How many ascents has it had now?

duncan

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#8113 Re: significant repeats
October 25, 2018, 11:47:00 am
And Jim Pope did Meshuga wearing one of those helmets they wore in the 1980s.

No-one wore helmets in the 1980s*

The 70s however...

This photo from Andy Fielding on supertopo is me in 1977 (not literally but identically dressed).




*except Mick Fowler who was the exception in just about everything.

Doylo

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#8114 Re: significant repeats
October 25, 2018, 11:47:50 am
Stu has done Evolution!  :beer2: :strongbench:

 :strongbench:

How many ascents has it had now?
I’m guessing 8 but I don’t know.

andy popp

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#8115 Re: significant repeats
October 25, 2018, 11:58:27 am
And Jim Pope did Meshuga wearing one of those helmets they wore in the 1980s.

No-one wore helmets in the 1980s*

Beat me to it. I even did two seasons in the Alps without wearing a helmet.

Oldmanmatt

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#8116 Re: significant repeats
October 25, 2018, 12:10:47 pm
And Jim Pope did Meshuga wearing one of those helmets they wore in the 1980s.

No-one wore helmets in the 1980s*

Beat me to it. I even did two seasons in the Alps without wearing a helmet.

Yeah, but to be fair, the “Joe Brown” helmet (Troll?) they made me wear when I was instructing; almost broke every bone in my foot, when it slipped off my harness one day and weighed slightly more than a Morris Minor estate.

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#8117 Re: significant repeats
October 25, 2018, 01:27:27 pm
And Jim Pope did Meshuga wearing one of those helmets they wore in the 1980s.

No-one wore helmets in the 1980s*

Beat me to it. I even did two seasons in the Alps without wearing a helmet.

Judging by Jim's instagram I think that was Grimers point   ;D

teestub

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#8119 Re: significant repeats
October 25, 2018, 02:05:05 pm

Judging by Jim's instagram I think that was Grimers point   ;D

https://www.instagram.com/p/BpUsLdcHPBe/?utm_source=ig_web_copy_link

The second photo on that begs the question: are there any holds up the left arete?

duncan

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#8120 Re: significant repeats
October 25, 2018, 02:11:26 pm

grimer

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#8121 Re: significant repeats
October 25, 2018, 02:18:29 pm
 ;D

cheque

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#8122 Re: significant repeats
October 25, 2018, 03:33:34 pm

https://www.instagram.com/p/BpUsLdcHPBe/?utm_source=ig_web_copy_link

The second photo on that begs the question: are there any holds up the left arete?

Yes, but only in the broadest sense of the term and they’re a long way apart. I believe it’s “an old Johnny Dawes project”, like every other piece of unclimbed rock in the Peak. Unless I’m mistaken it’s shown in the little unclimbed lines section towards the end of Hard Grit as “The Scoop at Black Rocks” and is the only one left since Smiling Buttress got done. Carlisle Slapper or someone similar will probably be along soon with firsthand experience of it- I might be talking shit as I’ve only looked at it in the most literal sense.

T_B

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#8123 Re: significant repeats
October 25, 2018, 03:47:03 pm
IIRC unlike Wizard Ridge and the wall right of Ulysses it's actually been TRed by someone in a one'r (can't remember who) but is obviously total death.

kingholmesy

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#8124 Re: significant repeats
October 25, 2018, 10:40:37 pm
And Jim Pope did Meshuga wearing one of those helmets they wore in the 1980s.

No-one wore helmets in the 1980s*

Beat me to it. I even did two seasons in the Alps without wearing a helmet.

Judging by Jim's instagram I think that was Grimers point   ;D

Except that according to cocktalk he did wear a helmet, it’s just that the photo on insta isn’t of his actual lead ...

 

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