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significant repeats (Read 4243319 times)

sidewinder

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#8025 Re: significant repeats
August 17, 2018, 01:51:08 pm
Is that tick list for real?
Yes, a dark horse indeed, also at ~90kgs and over 6 foot one of the best spotters going!

jwi

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#8026 Re: significant repeats
August 17, 2018, 02:57:16 pm
Is that tick list for real? If so he's 100% the best ever British boulderer, and I've never even heard his name mentioned! Waddage

As my old mate Laplace liked to say... The weight of evidence for an extraordinary claim must be proportioned to its strangeness.

Teaboy

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#8027 Re: significant repeats
August 17, 2018, 03:44:54 pm
Yes I brought him on this thread previously assuming some people would know him or have climbed with him but nothing. Seems strange you could be so good and so under the radar. Presumably Finnish line is only attempted with a ton of spotters?

I should add, I'm not doubting as I find the idea that someone would publicly make a claim more when they've not climbed a problem more unlikely than them actually having climbed it.

cheque

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#8028 Re: significant repeats
August 17, 2018, 07:24:18 pm
Yes I brought him on this thread previously assuming some people would know him or have climbed with him but nothing.

:cough:

I’ve heard of him. I won’t be the only UKB poster who knows his UK-resident brother, Loz.

Danny

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#8029 Re: significant repeats
August 17, 2018, 09:08:08 pm
Is that tick list for real?
Yes, a dark horse indeed, also at ~90kgs and over 6 foot one of the best spotters going!

Wow. Quite the outlier on the height/weight front. Even Hojer (who is positively massive by pro standards) doesn't tip 80 kg.

sidewinder

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#8030 Re: significant repeats
August 18, 2018, 08:05:58 pm
Yes I brought him on this thread previously assuming some people would know him or have climbed with him but nothing. Seems strange you could be so good and so under the radar. Presumably Finnish line is only attempted with a ton of spotters?
I know him (so does old cheese) lives in Austria, climbs a lot with the Zangerl's, no interest in publicity, though did get picked up by 8a.spew as he was getting back into climbing after an extended kayaking break https://www.8a.nu/forum/news/8b+-by-toby-saxton-193-cm-93-kg

b3n99

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#8031 Re: significant repeats
August 26, 2018, 02:38:41 pm
No doubting it on my part, just surprised and impressed in equal measure! The Finnish Line is definitely the most impressive line I've ever seen, looked like a totally different level in terms of difficulty and commitment! A minimum of 8 pads and 2 tied down spotters for sure!

Kingy

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#8032 Re: significant repeats
August 26, 2018, 02:47:25 pm
Emma Twyford has climbed the Big Issue E9 6c in Pembroke placing the gear on lead according to her Instagram  :great:

monkey boy

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#8033 Re: significant repeats
August 28, 2018, 06:53:17 am
Mina climbed Nordic Flower part 1 (8b+) at Flatanger the other day.

Teaboy

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#8034 Re: significant repeats
August 31, 2018, 01:14:12 pm
14 year old girl repeats 9a
https://www.instagram.com/p/BnIHTtIlsWk/?utm_source=ig_share_sheet&igshid=1v6xmvu6vmvog

According to his UKC logbook Craig Matheson has made the second ascent of Welcome to the Cruel World on Scafell
https://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/c.php?i=497958

spidermonkey09

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#8035 Re: significant repeats
August 31, 2018, 01:45:41 pm

According to his UKC logbook Craig Matheson has made the second ascent of Welcome to the Cruel World on Scafell
https://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/c.php?i=497958

Good effort that. He was top roping it back in mid May when I was there. Not sure I'd fancy having a project up there!

Durbs

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#8036 Re: significant repeats
September 05, 2018, 11:50:23 am
Possibly significant only as it's such an iconic route; Jimmy Webb's ticked Dreamcatcher:

https://www.instagram.com/p/BnT_rV0jIpo/?utm_source=ig_web_copy_link

jwi

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#8037 Re: significant repeats
September 07, 2018, 11:13:20 am
Gerome Pouvreau has repeated Rhapsody, Muy caliente, El Chupacabra and The big issue. Florence Pinet has repeated El Chupacabra and The big issue. Both also did the Quarryman.

Source: Fanatic Climbing, gerome-pouvreau.blogspot.com and pinetflorence.blogspot.com

duncan

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#8038 Re: significant repeats
September 07, 2018, 01:43:22 pm
Gerome Pouvreau has repeated Rhapsody, Muy caliente, El Chupacabra and The big issue. Florence Pinet has repeated El Chupacabra and The big issue. Both also did the Quarryman.

That's impressive and I'm not sure why this has not attracted more attention (can hazard a guess...). Interesting they imply Chupacabra was one of the harder of the Pembroke bunch.

dunnyg

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#8039 Re: significant repeats
September 07, 2018, 02:19:53 pm
That is a pretty solid tick list.

SA Chris

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#8040 Re: significant repeats
September 07, 2018, 03:16:53 pm
Yep, nice variety too, and lack of hard grit that foreign wads are normally attracted to.

(Although that might just be connies).

jwi

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#8041 Re: significant repeats
September 07, 2018, 03:55:09 pm
Helas! According to the interview in Grimper, they are on their way to Peak District to try some gritstone bouldering + trad.

Wood FT

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#8042 Re: significant repeats
September 07, 2018, 04:48:37 pm
Gerome Pouvreau has repeated Rhapsody, Muy caliente, El Chupacabra and The big issue. Florence Pinet has repeated El Chupacabra and The big issue. Both also did the Quarryman.

That's impressive and I'm not sure why this has not attracted more attention (can hazard a guess...). Interesting they imply Chupacabra was one of the harder of the Pembroke bunch.

Euro trad Wad Alex Luger said similar, harder than Muy Caliente to be precise

jwi

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#8043 Re: significant repeats
September 07, 2018, 05:02:04 pm
Florence calls The Big Issue “completely ‘new school’ without any big run-outs” and Chupacabra “less hard on paper, but in reality the opposite to us [...] one could think of [it] as an old-school 8a+”

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#8044 Re: significant repeats
September 07, 2018, 08:20:05 pm
That’s interesting. I’d heard Muy Caliente had settled to 8a+/E9. I had the impression that Chupacabra was easier than that, hence E8. Great that Pembs has got so much international attention in recent years.

jwi

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#8045 Re: significant repeats
September 07, 2018, 08:35:01 pm
That’s interesting. I’d heard Muy Caliente had settled to 8a+/E9.
Gerome writes about Muy Caliente that the level of climbing is surely 8a+.

Johnny Brown

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#8046 Re: significant repeats
September 07, 2018, 09:40:47 pm
Seem to remember hearing there is some runner on Chupa that not everyone has used, takes the sting out of the runout. Not sure if BB didn't see it or couldn't place it mid crux?

Ru

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#8047 Re: significant repeats
September 08, 2018, 12:00:56 am
Seem to remember hearing there is some runner on Chupa that not everyone has used, takes the sting out of the runout. Not sure if BB didn't see it or couldn't place it mid crux?

I remember the news article in OTE said that BB tried to place it but got too pumped (or similar), threw the piece over his shoulder and carried on without it.

ali k

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#8048 Re: significant repeats
September 08, 2018, 07:38:51 am
You can get a cam in an undercut pocket out to the right after you leave the Witch Hunt niche but it’s quite pumpy to place, so I guess that must be the one as I’m pretty sure there’s nothing else. Babsi and Jacopo et al all placed that too IIRC. And I agree with their comments - E8 is a bit mean for Chupa. Even after the runout there’s droppable moves on the top vert wall. 8a+ at least I thought.

cheque

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