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significant repeats (Read 4443632 times)

Johnny Brown

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#6625 Re: significant repeats
February 05, 2016, 12:01:59 pm
Are there any other classic hard problems that just climb the footholds of another?

turnipturned

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#6626 Re: significant repeats
February 05, 2016, 01:53:12 pm
Is the sit to Voyager really only 7B into the 8B stand?! Considering the sit has seen so few ascents and the stand has been done a fair bit, 7B doesn't seem much to add?

I personally think its 7c+/8a however I can't keep my foot on the horn at the start so have to do quite a hard move into the crimp at the start.

I think it's more a case of how many split tips you want to throw at a problem. I guess the start is enough to raise the probability from might split to will split.

I don't think its very sharp any more, since I first tried it to now, its seen a lot of action and brushing (a shame but I guess is inevitable especially as we are seeing more people operate at that grade). I had four hours on it last Saturday and was no where near splitting.


dave

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#6627 Re: significant repeats
February 05, 2016, 01:55:25 pm
Just out of interest Dan when folk are on about it chewing your skin are they on about a particular hold on the standup? The one you frenchstart to maybe?

turnipturned

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#6628 Re: significant repeats
February 05, 2016, 02:02:32 pm
Just out of interest Dan when folk are on about it chewing your skin are they on about a particular hold on the standup? The one you frenchstart to maybe?

The only one I think is sharp is the pinch you cross to with your left hand once you have your heel up on the new method. If cold, the the crimp you jump to isn't  mega sharp, just a bit painful/ shock to the system on the first couple of goes.


Wood FT

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#6629 Re: significant repeats
February 05, 2016, 07:10:12 pm
on the voyager tip James Noble climbed the stand today, happy birthday to him.

Fiend

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#6630 Re: significant repeats
February 06, 2016, 11:20:25 am


N.E.D.

Fiend

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#6631 Re: significant repeats
February 06, 2016, 11:50:49 am
Great stuff. How can you say that isn't a good line, dense????????

Nibile

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#6632 Re: significant repeats
February 06, 2016, 12:56:26 pm
Every line becomes a good line after you've done it.
That's how it works for me.
 ;D

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#6633 Re: significant repeats
February 06, 2016, 12:59:51 pm
Every line becomes a good line if it's a clean cut arete / prow :)

JackAus

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#6634 Re: significant repeats
February 07, 2016, 12:15:52 am
Jimmy Webb has done The Big Island and La Toupie Carnivore Assis.

36chambers

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#6635 Re: significant repeats
February 07, 2016, 10:51:54 am
Every line becomes a good line if it's a clean cut arete / prow :)

In this case, I think the line looks far better than the moves do.

Jimmy Webb has done The Big Island and La Toupie Carnivore Assis.

On 8a.nu he mentions going back for the assis, I didn't even know there was an assis for The Big Island. 

masonwoods101

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#6636 Re: significant repeats
February 07, 2016, 11:04:40 am
Not yet there int...

ghisino

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#6637 Re: significant repeats
February 09, 2016, 09:13:28 pm
I didn't even know there was an assis for The Big Island.

it is supposed to be the ultimate font project.
Obvious, proud line, the holds are there, every move is clearly doable yet clearly hard. Should add more than a couple of moves to the original line, too...

36chambers

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#6638 Re: significant repeats
February 16, 2016, 09:44:57 pm
Nathan Phillips sent Voyager 8B yesterday :strongbench:

Link to video:

https://www.facebook.com/TheCircuitClimbingMagazine/videos/603237206494388


How many ascents has it had now?

a dense loner

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#6639 Re: significant repeats
February 16, 2016, 09:49:06 pm
Is he American? Upwards of 20. Good stuff

36chambers

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#6640 Re: significant repeats
February 16, 2016, 10:36:38 pm
I didn't realise it was so many, not that significant then.

Is he American? Upwards of 20. Good stuff

not sure if this is a joke or I'm missing something :-\

Nibile

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#6641 Re: significant repeats
February 16, 2016, 10:47:25 pm
"C'mon! C'mon!"

Duma

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#6642 Re: significant repeats
February 16, 2016, 11:51:40 pm
I didn't realise it was so many, not that significant then.

Is he American? Upwards of 20. Good stuff

not sure if this is a joke or I'm missing something :-\
"sent"

Mumra

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#6643 Re: significant repeats
February 17, 2016, 09:19:46 am
Sick

36chambers

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#6644 Re: significant repeats
February 17, 2016, 09:32:19 am
You're going to have to spell it out for me guys

andy_e

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#6645 Re: significant repeats
February 17, 2016, 09:37:38 am
Like, he sent the rad rig like UPS bro.

36chambers

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#6646 Re: significant repeats
February 17, 2016, 09:40:22 am
Like, he sent the rad rig like UPS bro.

I was hoping for "S E N T", but thanks anyway :)

dave

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#6647 Re: significant repeats
February 17, 2016, 09:53:28 am
Like, he sent the rad rig like UPS bro.

I was hoping for "S E N T", but thanks anyway :)


I was so close to posting "I T".

andy_e

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#6648 Re: significant repeats
February 17, 2016, 09:59:45 am
Sorry to ruin your fun. It's within your power to edit it all to your taste though...

Doylo

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#6649 Re: significant repeats
February 17, 2016, 12:40:56 pm
Johnny Argue did Voyager too.

 

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