[Three Nine]

Doesnt look that hard to me!

[Doylo]

That was when it had holds.

[a dense loner]

That's not the first ascent of Fatman either. That's Johnny brown with muscle, Fatman is a godoffe problem

[dave]

CRAZY DONKEYLIGNE!!!!

[Oldmanmatt]

That's not the first ascent of Fatman either. That's Johnny brown with muscle, Fatman is a godoffe problem

Yeah, I was hoping to find it on the Godoffe/Ondra (Black Diamond) vid.
My French being terrible, did they leave it out because of breakage?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[rodma]

Vid of the FA of Fatman for anyone interested.

http://youtu.be/HIreNKro7QU?t=2482

Christophe basically does gourmandise in that clip. His rh is on the short version of gourmandise start hold and doesn't move from there until he has the lip in his lh. That is not fatman as far as I can tell. You can go straight to the lip with the lh without the intermediates used in that clip, which is how you do gourmandise if you are not too short (I'm too short so jump out rh a la uncle quiche Bradbury in his font film ).

Gourmandise is a christophe laumone problem so I wouldn't be surprised if it came about by him thinking he had repeated fatman, but had actually climbed a new line.

It would be cool if ebb has done gourmandise anyway and awesome if he's done fatman.

[Three Nine]

sounds like some wank peak eliminates to me!

[rodma]

sounds like some wank peak eliminates to me!

Haha. You nailed it. But the original non eliminate is gone.

Basically the holds christophe moves his lh between should be in his rh for fatman, he should just be further left on the roof. Fatman and gourmandise both cross a similar depth of the roof, but fatman was the original (and easier graded before Fred did the ss) line. Gourmandise is a Grade harder (prior to the hold smashage) than the original fatman.

It's still my long term project and will probably remain that way until I lower my expectations

Edit: typos

[a dense loner]

Just lie about doing it?

[Sasquatch]

Just lie about doing it?

That only works if your goal is acclaim/notoriety

Doesn't help if your goal is to actually climb something.

[a dense loner]

Shit!

[Fiend]

Don't worry dense, you never have the goal to climb anything right? Apart from wood...

[rodma]

Just lie about doing it?

Haha. Class :D

[Ru]

Gourmandise is a christophe laumone problem so I wouldn't be surprised if it came about by him thinking he had repeated fatman, but had actually climbed a new line.

FA of Gourmandise was someone called Vincent Cantrelle.

[rodma]

What is this, a fact finding mission?

Haha. Well corrected ru

In that case it's just that christophe, or the film maker is confused. The holds christophe uses on the roof in that video are still there after all, I use them for my left hand once my right hand is on the lip.

[Nibile]

image by Nibile, on Flickr
From Bloc en Stock guidebook from back in the day, when those punters of 7+8 were still using diapers.

[rodma]

image by Nibile, on Flickr
From Bloc en Stock guidebook from back in the day, when those punters of 7+8 were still using diapers.

Good photo

I'm still surprised the 7+8 boys haven't dropped gourmandise from their book, since it doesn't meet the correct up/sideways ratio

[Wood FT]

Heard back from EBB, he should be along shortly to put this shit to rest.

any more on this? would be good to draw a line under it

[Three Nine]

Heard back from EBB, he should be along shortly to put this shit to rest.

any more on this? would be good to draw a line under it

nada

[turnipturned]

 

I think the issue in the EBB case is not "young relatively new climber doing something significant e.g. 8B", but "y r n c doing something very significant indeed i.e. first ascent of fatman after holds have broken rendering it desperate", if I understand right?

He has a very impressive ticklist in the last 18-24 months
ROUTES: second ascent of the hardest route in the SW-8c+, 5 8c's, numerous 8b+ and 5 8b O/S/flashes!
BOULDERS: 8B+, 5 8B's including FA and lots of 8 grade boulders

Making Ellis probably the best combined climber in the country and he is only what 18??? Very impressive, seems strange he doesn't get more coverage/ publicity, he could be the future of British climbing.

If you like 8a.nu ranking game, he is top of the world junior combined ranking game and 5th overall!

Good stuff!

[scottygillery]

If you like 8a.nu ranking game, he is top of the world junior combined ranking game and 5th overall!

Dob him in to Jens. 

[petejh]

I think the issue in the EBB case is not "young relatively new climber doing something significant e.g. 8B", but "y r n c doing something very significant indeed i.e. first ascent of fatman after holds have broken rendering it desperate", if I understand right?

He has a very impressive ticklist in the last 18-24 months
ROUTES: second ascent of the hardest route in the SW-8c+, 5 8c's, numerous 8b+ and 5 8b O/S/flashes!
BOULDERS: 8B+, 5 8B's including FA and lots of 8 grade boulders

Making Ellis probably the best combined climber in the country and he is only what 18??? Very impressive, seems strange he doesn't get more coverage/ publicity, he could be the future of British climbing.

If you like 8a.nu ranking game, he is top of the world junior combined ranking game and 5th overall!

Good stuff!

As always it isn't difficult to prove stuff if you're the real thing.

[Johnny Brown]

Exactly. All that needs to be said.

[cha1n]

Making Ellis probably the best combined climber in the country and he is only what 18??? Very impressive, seems strange he doesn't get more coverage/ publicity, he could be the future of British climbing.

Plus, he's not been climbing long, something like 4 years isn't it? Impressive as most of the strong climbers, even the youths having been climbing since very young. I remember talking to him at Cheddar once and he said that he think's he's improved quickly because he comes from a gymnastics background.

I'm not getting involved in the credibility side of things, he comes across more lazy than a fake to me but when you're sponsored you've got the put the effort in and put the videos out, else every strong Brit would get sponsored if there was no effort involved.

[Three Nine]

Transcript of FB convo with Ellis' belayer for his ascent of Brian (posted with her permission):

hi Charlotte,

please would you be able to confirm whether or not you saw, with your own eyes, Ellis Butler-Barker climb Brian from start to finish without sitting on the rope? It would really help. Cheers, Mark

Hiya:)) yeah I did I belayed him on it! He climbed it flawlessly and didn't sit on the rope no. Thanks Charlotte x
thanks Charlotte!

mind if i quote you on that?

That's alright! I understand there has been some controversy to do with some of Ellis  ascents... However I want you to understand that I am no longer in a relationship with Ellis and therefore do not take a bias viewpoint!
Yeah ofc

smile emoticon

cheers! that's very helpful