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significant repeats (Read 4240369 times)

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#5425 Re: significant repeats
January 28, 2015, 10:16:15 am
FWIW the stand start is V12.

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#5426 Re: significant repeats
January 28, 2015, 10:37:39 am
Hehe I lv the net, how does that work if it's an 8b into an 8b+ into a 7c? Not saying you're wrong standard

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#5427 Re: significant repeats
January 28, 2015, 10:49:30 am
FWIW the stand start is V12.

Well that's not going to stop many 8C-climbers in their tracks?

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#5428 Re: significant repeats
January 28, 2015, 10:57:56 am
Hehe I lv the net, how does that work if it's an 8b into an 8b+ into a 7c? Not saying you're wrong standard

I'm talking Lucid Dreaming, not The Process.

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#5429 Re: significant repeats
January 28, 2015, 10:59:53 am
FWIW the stand start is V12.

Well that's not going to stop many 8C-climbers in their tracks?

There is a nice move by move description here:

http://www.rockandice.com/lates-news/q-a-daniel-woods-gets-obsessed-to-send-lucid-dreaming-v15
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Start matched on a half-pad crescent shaped edge, paste your left foot on a glass smear as well as the right, pull on and do a left hand move to a quarter-pad, rounded, slick crimp. Bite down hard on this hold and move your right foot high and right onto a decent edge, then isolate the left arm and come right hand into the shark's tooth. This hold is so cool yet loco! How you grab this hold determines if you do the next move or not. For me, I place my ring finger on the left side of the spike and middle finger on the right side (the hold size is less than a quarter-pad and bites like no other). I then load my two fingers and wrap my thumb around the side of the tooth. When you get this, you make a fist with the wall and can feel the edge cut through a couple layers of skin, which is what holds you onto the wall. I then bring my left foot high on this knob right below the starting hold and explode to the left hand mini-pinch. This hold is slick, quarter-pad, and has an OK thumb catch, which makes it positive. It is hard to have the right accuracy to get this hold perfect. Now you are in the stand of Rastaman Vibration (V12). From here you switch your right foot onto the knob and place your left foot on a smear out left. You eye up the final half pad, rounded crimp and jump to it. Your feet go nearly horizontal while your fingers are squeezing these two holds. Once controlled, you do the remaining 30-foot slab to the top of the boulder.

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#5430 Re: significant repeats
January 28, 2015, 11:06:11 am
Dark horse Martin Keller did "Insanity of Grandeur" 8c.

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#5431 Re: significant repeats
January 28, 2015, 11:13:16 am
You're quite right standard, I'm a raving idiot!!!

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#5432 Re: significant repeats
January 28, 2015, 11:15:31 am
I'm a raving idiot!!!
:clap2:

Dunno if R&I allow image posting but:


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#5433 Re: significant repeats
January 28, 2015, 11:17:26 am
Whys he looking at me like that? It's unnerving

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#5434 Re: significant repeats
January 28, 2015, 11:21:03 am
Cos you're a raving idiot, obviously  :-*

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#5435 Re: significant repeats
January 28, 2015, 11:43:08 am
Whys he looking at me like that?

It's pity you see in his eyes.

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#5436 Re: significant repeats
January 28, 2015, 11:59:25 am

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#5437 Re: significant repeats
January 28, 2015, 06:26:55 pm
Woods blog re: The Process.

He definitely calls it v16.

http://neverstopexploring.com/2015/01/28/daniel-woods-sends-process/

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#5438 Re: significant repeats
January 28, 2015, 06:49:47 pm

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#5439 Re: significant repeats
January 28, 2015, 10:08:11 pm
Just watched the first two chapters of Exposure 2, which has turned out much better than I thought it would. I've had to turn off Alex's bit til tomos, I can't face it it's been a long day as it is. However watching Lucid Dreaming and what was to become The Process, fuck me they're a pair of fantastic lines and no mistake! I'm glad he stuck his neck out and gave it V16, it's obviously harder than the V15.
Hypnotised Minds looks mental as does The Reckoning!

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#5440 Re: significant repeats
January 28, 2015, 10:30:32 pm
Yeah.  That face of the prandpa peabody is truly stunning.  And if there's a place in the US that deserves to house a couple of the hardest in the US, that's it. 

I played on the top half of the reckoning, and came close but it was a bit moist (as in drizzling) which made it a bit of a mare.  Anywho, the sitter looked nails, but seemed way more likely than the singularity :)

And yes hypnotized looks insane in person.  Seeing the video certainly didn't do it justice. In person the holds are so small, and so far apart. 

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#5441 Re: significant repeats
January 28, 2015, 11:16:22 pm
Is exposure 2 worth the money guys?  :off:

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#5442 Re: significant repeats
January 28, 2015, 11:54:48 pm
I think so, but I live in "no climbing for 6-8 months land" so anything with people climbing is worth it to me :)


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#5443 Re: significant repeats
January 29, 2015, 08:35:45 am
Is exposure 2 worth the money guys?  :off:
I thought it was pretty dull,  lots of brooding looks straight at the camera and pundits discussing the relative strengths of people.   I did not think the climbing was shot very well either, especially the indoor sections feature dimitri thingy, the actual climbing footage was akin to watching a world cup stream

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#5444 Re: significant repeats
January 29, 2015, 12:20:01 pm
Is exposure 2 worth the money guys?  :off:
I thought it was pretty dull,  lots of brooding looks straight at the camera and pundits discussing the relative strengths of people.   I did not think the climbing was shot very well either, especially the indoor sections feature dimitri thingy, the actual climbing footage was akin to watching a world cup stream

I agree with all Tim's points but I still enjoyed watching it.

I can't decide if that demitri section was a piss take?

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#5445 Re: significant repeats
February 02, 2015, 07:32:25 am
Sachi Amma has done Fight or Flight 9b(!) at Oliana.

"Oh my god... It happened finally. I spend 4 trips, more than 25 tries. Long time project was done today. I spend very good time with this route. I will never forget today!!!"

Shortly after he did Joe-Cita 9a which was his third route 9a and harder in four days.

8a.

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#5446 Re: significant repeats
February 02, 2015, 09:28:37 am
Which one is Fight Or Flight? Good effort. 9b is still hard, right?

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#5447 Re: significant repeats
February 02, 2015, 09:39:14 am
This one:


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#5448 Re: significant repeats
February 02, 2015, 04:10:09 pm
Boom! I saw him getting very close in November.

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#5449 Re: significant repeats
February 02, 2015, 05:50:32 pm
Which one is Fight Or Flight? Good effort. 9b is still hard, right?

 :lol:



 

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