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significant repeats (Read 2884850 times)

Doylo

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#5425 Re: significant repeats
January 07, 2015, 04:57:57 pm
Dave Parry- the first 'humble' man with a 8a scorecard  :lol:

gme

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#5426 Re: significant repeats
January 07, 2015, 05:00:06 pm
And so you should Dave. Us mortals need to have small victories once in a while.

I schooled Moony on yman sit start years ago but if i close my eyes i can see it like it was yesterday.

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#5427 Re: significant repeats
January 07, 2015, 05:12:26 pm

Dave Parry- the first 'humble' man with a 8a scorecard  :lol:

Look, I don't own a selfie stick, what more do you want?

tomtom

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#5428 Re: significant repeats
January 07, 2015, 05:12:47 pm
Dave Parry- the first 'humble' man with a 8a scorecard  :lol:

He set himself up for the subtle self promotion about 50 posts back... ;)

Doylo

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#5429 Re: significant repeats
January 07, 2015, 05:20:32 pm

Dave Parry- the first 'humble' man with a 8a scorecard  :lol:

Look, I don't own a selfie stick, what more do you want?


Didn't get one for Xmas? Seriously though, nice one for putting the Milky Bar Kid in his place. He had it coming...

willackers

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#5430 Re: significant repeats
January 07, 2015, 09:22:57 pm

Doylo

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#5431 Re: significant repeats
January 07, 2015, 09:29:16 pm
Shame it broke, that move was amazing. Glad it still goes though.

fatdoc

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#5432 Re: significant repeats
January 07, 2015, 09:33:11 pm
That film was brilliant.

turnipturned

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#5433 Re: significant repeats
January 08, 2015, 08:16:37 am
That was good that Vid

frasermcilwraith

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#5434 Re: significant repeats
January 08, 2015, 08:38:26 pm
Amazing video, what a hero. Strong heel hooking too.

youngy

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#5435 Re: significant repeats
January 09, 2015, 09:11:19 am
nothing like a bit of 'subtle' advertising there on that vid  ;)

JackAus

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#5436 Re: significant repeats
January 15, 2015, 05:11:49 am
Megoswad is back in Bishop and has done Direct North V14 one day one...

JMB

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#5437 Re: significant repeats
January 15, 2015, 05:21:37 am
Tommy Caldwell and Kevin Jorgeson just finished repeating sections of the Mescalito and Wall of Early Morning Light climbs on El Capitan.

turnipturned

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#5438 Re: significant repeats
January 24, 2015, 07:42:49 pm
Mr Katz did Voyager today very quickly (think he had a session on it before the the sit was done)! Pretty impressive, considering he has been at the top of the UK game for the last 10 years and always held down a full time job.. RESPECT!

joble

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#5439 Re: significant repeats
January 24, 2015, 07:50:41 pm
I've never seen 8b look so easy!  Literally looked 7b - legend

Doylo

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#5440 Re: significant repeats
January 24, 2015, 08:15:42 pm
He's always been a wad. Tiny little legs swinging about.

Will Hunt

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#5441 Re: significant repeats
January 24, 2015, 08:50:55 pm
That's awesome. The Mighty Atom strikes  :bow:

PipeSmoke

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a dense loner

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#5443 Re: significant repeats
January 28, 2015, 07:53:33 am
Beast!

jwi

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#5444 Re: significant repeats
January 28, 2015, 10:05:39 am
Basically a 2 move 8C if I understand correctly. The mind boggles.

I heard it's easy if your short.

standard

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#5445 Re: significant repeats
January 28, 2015, 10:16:15 am
FWIW the stand start is V12.

a dense loner

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#5446 Re: significant repeats
January 28, 2015, 10:37:39 am
Hehe I lv the net, how does that work if it's an 8b into an 8b+ into a 7c? Not saying you're wrong standard

jwi

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#5447 Re: significant repeats
January 28, 2015, 10:49:30 am
FWIW the stand start is V12.

Well that's not going to stop many 8C-climbers in their tracks?

standard

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#5448 Re: significant repeats
January 28, 2015, 10:57:56 am
Hehe I lv the net, how does that work if it's an 8b into an 8b+ into a 7c? Not saying you're wrong standard

I'm talking Lucid Dreaming, not The Process.

standard

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#5449 Re: significant repeats
January 28, 2015, 10:59:53 am
FWIW the stand start is V12.

Well that's not going to stop many 8C-climbers in their tracks?

There is a nice move by move description here:

http://www.rockandice.com/lates-news/q-a-daniel-woods-gets-obsessed-to-send-lucid-dreaming-v15
Quote
Start matched on a half-pad crescent shaped edge, paste your left foot on a glass smear as well as the right, pull on and do a left hand move to a quarter-pad, rounded, slick crimp. Bite down hard on this hold and move your right foot high and right onto a decent edge, then isolate the left arm and come right hand into the shark's tooth. This hold is so cool yet loco! How you grab this hold determines if you do the next move or not. For me, I place my ring finger on the left side of the spike and middle finger on the right side (the hold size is less than a quarter-pad and bites like no other). I then load my two fingers and wrap my thumb around the side of the tooth. When you get this, you make a fist with the wall and can feel the edge cut through a couple layers of skin, which is what holds you onto the wall. I then bring my left foot high on this knob right below the starting hold and explode to the left hand mini-pinch. This hold is slick, quarter-pad, and has an OK thumb catch, which makes it positive. It is hard to have the right accuracy to get this hold perfect. Now you are in the stand of Rastaman Vibration (V12). From here you switch your right foot onto the knob and place your left foot on a smear out left. You eye up the final half pad, rounded crimp and jump to it. Your feet go nearly horizontal while your fingers are squeezing these two holds. Once controlled, you do the remaining 30-foot slab to the top of the boulder.

 

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