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significant repeats (Read 3668749 times)

a dense loner

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#5325 Re: significant repeats
January 05, 2015, 03:36:20 pm
The holds on the joker have changed massively. I've enjoyed your posts today johnny

Johnny Brown

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#5326 Re: significant repeats
January 05, 2015, 03:42:27 pm
The only 'massive' change was when the jug fell off. To me a 'significant' change would be a grade change, a 'massive' change two or three grade change. Which we haven't seen. And they're still not enough for Alex Megos. Poor Dave though, you guys.

a dense loner

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#5327 Re: significant repeats
January 05, 2015, 03:57:23 pm
"The holds are there, the holds are big, the moves are small, it's easy. Why is it so hard!?"
Alex Megos

"I first tried it going right handed, that's how I thought it would go. I took a camera tripod with me to stand on to practice the move. You couldn't go right handed with your foot in the break the holds were just too poor that's why I went left hand first"
Jerry Moffatt

Johnny Brown

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#5328 Re: significant repeats
January 05, 2015, 04:08:25 pm
Jerry being the best climber ever of course. I couldn't go right handed either, what does this prove? The world has not moved on, nor might he have been wrong. What's your definition of a massive change Dense?

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#5329 Re: significant repeats
January 05, 2015, 04:11:50 pm
The holds on the joker have changed massively. I've enjoyed your posts today johnny

I recall trying Hampers Hange back in the day (late 1980s) and couldn't get close on my 1 attempt so can hardly claim to have a strong evidential base, but visually the holds appear to be much larger than before and appear to have changed significantly since I spotted one of the Nottingham strong lads on it in the late 90s / early 2000s.

It's just a shame that no one made a full scale sika model of them.

a dense loner

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#5330 Re: significant repeats
January 05, 2015, 04:16:22 pm
I knew you'd leap on that bit. It proves nothing. I think you're right, the holds have gotten worse if anything. What was once called hampers hang cos only Chris Hamper could hang them, the old guard must be terribly embarrassed.
Not to mention nearly everyone I know, including myself, who thinks the holds have gotten bigger. I use the word think.

dave

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#5331 Re: significant repeats
January 05, 2015, 04:34:02 pm

"You couldn't go right handed with your foot in the break the holds were just too poor that's why I went left hand first"
Jerry Moffatt

Not to mention that if you blew the move going right hand first with foot on you'd probably miss your single S7 pad and break your neck.

Johnny Brown

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#5332 Re: significant repeats
January 05, 2015, 05:37:13 pm
When did I deny the holds had got bigger, Dense? I didn't. I asked you to define a 'massive' change in terms of grades. Don't say 'gotten', you're from Oldham not Houston.

a dense loner

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#5333 Re: significant repeats
January 05, 2015, 06:24:07 pm
I never mentioned a change in grade, all I said was the holds on the joker have gotten bigger! You're a madman

a dense loner

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#5334 Re: significant repeats
January 05, 2015, 06:26:49 pm
Oh and Sean said hi when I was in the valley I kept forgetting to say, couldn't put it in the other thread cos that's bizarre enough as is

monkey boy

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#5335 Re: significant repeats
January 05, 2015, 07:09:11 pm
Mina is 5'6 with the same ape.

Johnny Brown

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#5336 Re: significant repeats
January 05, 2015, 07:31:58 pm
Sean who?

So you really expect me to believe that although you think the holds have changed 'massively' it hasn't affected the grade? I would have to be a madman, yes.

Problems get easier over time without changing physically, because a climb is a cultural construct not a simple physical object.

Mina is 5'6 with the same ape.

Well there you go, I'd have bet money she's taller than Bransby. Maybe Ben's been exaggerating. So tied with Ben and Caff for shortest ascent then, unless Alex Waterhouse is smaller. Other than which it's mainly tall folk. Which is not what you'd expect if it was really easier for the short.

monkey boy

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#5337 Re: significant repeats
January 05, 2015, 07:43:24 pm
Alex is pretty short too, probably around that height unless he has grown! It also depends what you class as tall. I am pretty sure only Ryan and Mike are 6'0 or above, maybe Dan just sneaks in there. I always associate being tall with 6'0 or above. As I say short legs, long arms and flexi would be the dream!

Like Barrows said two pages ago this is a pointless debate. You are either good enough to climb or not, no matter what your dimensions.

Johnny Brown

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#5338 Re: significant repeats
January 05, 2015, 07:53:34 pm
Obviously being 5'8" short is shorter than me and tall is 5'10 and above, over 6 foot being giant territory where I have to stand back to avoid neck ache, though Ryan at least has the courtesy to stoop. As I said, of the first ten or so ascents none were short, Caff was the first short and there haven't been any shorter. So doesn't strike me as an advantage.

PS Not a 'significant' repeat, but I did Snellen the other day by a much easier method. Soz.

dave

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#5339 Re: significant repeats
January 05, 2015, 08:03:58 pm
Bloody lanky 5'6" skyscraper motherfuckers, makes me sick. I bet they weight upwards of 9 stone too, fat bastards.

monkey boy

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#5340 Re: significant repeats
January 05, 2015, 08:09:37 pm
Obviously being 5'8" short is shorter than me and tall is 5'10 and above, over 6 foot being giant territory where I have to stand back to avoid neck ache, though Ryan at least has the courtesy to stoop. As I said, of the first ten or so ascents none were short, Caff was the first short and there haven't been any shorter. So doesn't strike me as an advantage.

PS Not a 'significant' repeat, but I did Snellen the other day by a much easier method. Soz.

Well as I said this is pointless as I count being tall as 6'0 and above.

Not sure if that was dig or not but well done and glad you liked it!

Johnny Brown

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#5341 Re: significant repeats
January 05, 2015, 08:18:07 pm
No dig, good effort cleaning them up, good problems! Did you do it in summer? Inevitable stuff like that will be easier in the cold.

monkey boy

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#5342 Re: significant repeats
January 05, 2015, 08:26:37 pm
Yeah did them in the summer but to be honest the way I tried Snellen was the only way I could think to do it and others who tried it couldn't manage it; it took me two sessions so I thought 7C was appropriate but saw Dave H today and he said you thought it was easier with your beta. I did Mallard a bad way too I think, Jon did it a slightly easier way. Did you try Knights of the Round? I thought that was easier than Mallard and Snellen. Swings and roundabouts!

Whatevs it's a great little venue on lovely rock.

a dense loner

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#5343 Re: significant repeats
January 05, 2015, 08:28:15 pm
How many people called Sean do you know who are likely to be in the valley?! Fuck me it's a good job we're not in the states I'd come round and shoot you for being an argumentative ass! And stop being patronising to the monkey  ;)

Johnny Brown

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#5344 Re: significant repeats
January 05, 2015, 08:40:17 pm
I thought all three a similar grade from a stand, Mallard a touch harder with the sit. Knights was wet which didn't help, I could see it being harder for short folk who cant jump. Yeah it's a great little spot.

I guess you mean the Irish Belgian Dense.

monkey boy

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#5345 Re: significant repeats
January 05, 2015, 08:42:29 pm
Ah cool! Well glad you enjoyed them anyway. Yeah I think Knights is easier for the tall! Haha!

How many people called Sean do you know who are likely to be in the valley?! Fuck me it's a good job we're not in the states I'd come round and shoot you for being an argumentative ass! And stop being patronising to the monkey  ;)

Thanks for the back up Lee!

205Chris

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#5346 Re: significant repeats
January 05, 2015, 08:43:03 pm
To me a 'significant' change would be a grade change, a 'massive' change two or three grade change.

I did Snellen the other day by a much easier method. Soz.

Is 'much easier' somewhere between 'significant' and 'massive' on the grading scale?

Adam Lincoln

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#5347 Re: significant repeats
January 05, 2015, 08:43:24 pm
How did you two ever live together!?

Doylo

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#5348 Re: significant repeats
January 05, 2015, 08:45:45 pm
How did you two ever live together!?

It was beautiful by all accounts. It used to make me very jealous indeed.

Johnny Brown

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#5349 Re: significant repeats
January 05, 2015, 08:50:05 pm
Well in the terms of this thread 'massive' is apparently not enough to be 'significant', whereas 'much easier' drops by three or four grades.

We didn't talk that much tbh.

 

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