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significant repeats (Read 4975003 times)

Adam Lincoln

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#4900 Re: significant repeats
August 11, 2014, 04:32:54 pm
How many other 8b+/8c's have you done? You do realise what bogey means in this context? It's kind of like it should be average  :boxing:

Only 1 8b+ Dense. What i meant was that i buggered my finger on it, bogey in that sense.

a dense loner

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#4901 Re: significant repeats
August 11, 2014, 05:20:07 pm
beast, chris says hi

Doylo

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#4902 Re: significant repeats
August 11, 2014, 09:20:12 pm

Adam Lincoln

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#4903 Re: significant repeats
August 11, 2014, 09:50:15 pm
beast, chris says hi

I need to be on the same rig as you sometime, you would have me in stitches  ;)

Fiend

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#4904 Re: significant repeats
August 11, 2014, 09:58:51 pm
Not if you warm up gently and use enough lube.

Paul B

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#4905 Re: significant repeats
August 12, 2014, 12:53:01 pm
I need to be on the same rig as you sometime, you would have me in stitches  ;)

Maybe you could both join Dave Graham's crew? He'd be stoked.

T_B

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#4906 Re: significant repeats
August 12, 2014, 01:09:55 pm
Or he might go loco at the shit is cray rig posse and be sick?

a dense loner

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#4907 Re: significant repeats
August 12, 2014, 01:16:53 pm
Adam can translate for me. I still struggle to understand Tyler when he goes on about time travel in between the logs

Adam Lincoln

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#4908 Re: significant repeats
August 12, 2014, 06:09:29 pm
I need to be on the same rig as you sometime, you would have me in stitches  ;)

Maybe you could both join Dave Graham's crew? He'd be stoked.

The type of rig attached to sea bed guys, sorry to ruin your fun.  ;)

bendavison

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#4909 Re: significant repeats
August 12, 2014, 07:28:01 pm
Alan Cassidy has done Nordic Flower in Flatanger. Originally given 9a by Jorg-no-kneebar-Verhoeven, then down to 8c+ with just the Wizard and Seb Bouin (I think) suggesting hard 8c. Looks like Alan thought low end 8c+. Amazing looking route and his 2nd at the grade I think.

Fiend

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#4910 Re: significant repeats
August 12, 2014, 09:52:34 pm
I need to be on the same rig as you sometime, you would have me in stitches  ;)

Maybe you could both join Dave Graham's crew? He'd be stoked.

The type of rig attached to sea bed guys, sorry to ruin your fun.  ;)
Obviously. Surely there is no chance of Dense going near a boulder problem "rig".

Nike Air

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#4911 Re: significant repeats
August 12, 2014, 10:04:57 pm
Emma Twyford has done Unjustified. 2nd girl to do 8b+ on British soil (or is it still regarded as 8c?). Fine effort regardless.
The history of Unjustified might shed light on this.

Nic made a hold out of siki and went straight up after the crux at 8b+, justified and ancient.  Tony came along and wanted another 8c for himself and knocked off alot of the hold and got his 8c, that he renamed Unjustified.

I remember reading that it was a little known fact that not all the siki had been taken off and Tony still used a little of it to pull on. This means that Tony went straight up after the crux like Nic did. Now everyone loops out right doing the new easier method that I think the Darwin Weasel found. This method does not use the glue for hands and as far as I know nobody has done it the way Tony did and gave 8c for. I never tried going direct so I dont know if this way was/is 8c, Im just adding some content to the debate.........

Anyone want to regrade true north for those who can do the direct/lank method on full tilt?? I found the loop out right low down on this the crux and fell here the most times on true north.

a dense loner

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#4912 Re: significant repeats
August 13, 2014, 10:11:42 am
Has someone hacked your account Ben? God you must be bored

Paul B

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#4913 Re: significant repeats
August 13, 2014, 10:42:23 am
I found the loop out right low down on this the crux and fell here the most times on true north.

It's a tricky set of moves lanksters get to miss out that's for sure!

gme

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#4914 Re: significant repeats
August 13, 2014, 11:21:28 am
I thought that unjustified has been consensus 8b+ for a long time now. The way it's been reported at the minute will make it very difficult to give it this grade in the new guide. Who wants to be the person to down grade the 1st of it's kind British ascent.

Doylo

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#4915 Re: significant repeats
August 13, 2014, 11:55:31 am
Don't let the truth get in the way of a good story. Emma's awesome at technical stamina stuff anyway so I'm sure she'll do more.
 

Anyone want to regrade true north for those who can do the direct/lank method on full tilt?? I found the loop out right low down on this the crux and fell here the most times on true north.


Give yourself 8c+ then   ;)

shark

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#4916 Re: significant repeats
August 13, 2014, 12:08:30 pm
Can I split the Unjustified comments into a seperate thread please ?

gme

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#4917 Re: significant repeats
August 13, 2014, 12:11:20 pm
Why. It's comment on a significant ascent is it not.

shark

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#4918 Re: significant repeats
August 13, 2014, 12:14:50 pm
Why. It's comment on a significant ascent is it not.

It looks to be going off topic. There are also other things worth discussing re Unjustified. It sounds like it could do with a rebolt (people tend to extend the existing ones and they are past their best) and maybe the belay moving to a ledge just a bit higher   :worms:

T_B

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#4919 Re: significant repeats
August 13, 2014, 12:21:41 pm
Whilst you're at it get Nic's hold sika'd back on then there'd be no confusion over the grade :P

shark

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#4920 Re: significant repeats
August 13, 2014, 12:23:02 pm
Whilst you're at it get Nic's hold sika'd back on then there'd be no confusion over the grade :P

Really? He's a bigger undergrader than you are

gme

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#4921 Re: significant repeats
August 13, 2014, 12:38:39 pm
But we are not discussing unjustified we are discussing a significant repeat of it. You have a whole thread to discuss it needing revolting which, whilst important, does not really bother me.

I personally have no idea what grade it is just questioned the reporting of it as 8c when I thought it was generally accepted as 8b+. I have not seen it reported as 8c for ages.

gme

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#4922 Re: significant repeats
August 13, 2014, 12:39:45 pm
And nics not an undergrader. Never heard that before.

Stu Littlefair

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#4923 Re: significant repeats
August 13, 2014, 12:41:23 pm
the irony of shark complaining this thread is going off topic, then dragging it off topic.  :tumble:


shark

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#4924 Re: significant repeats
August 13, 2014, 12:45:57 pm
the irony of shark complaining this thread is going off topic, then dragging it off topic.  :tumble:

I wasn't complaining. It is often commented by memebers (particularly Tom) that this thread in particular is kept relatively uncluttered. I think its OK to go off topic and lot of good threads have been spawned from the significant repeats thread.

I'll say no more.

 

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