UKBouldering.com

significant repeats (Read 4235710 times)

sherlock

Offline
  • ***
  • obsessive maniac
  • Posts: 460
  • Karma: +21/-0
#4500 Re: significant repeats
April 03, 2014, 11:42:29 am
Never seen that pic before.Fuckin hell.
Thanks Fiend.I think.

T_B

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 3078
  • Karma: +149/-5
#4501 Re: significant repeats
April 03, 2014, 11:49:49 am
Dave's route went left from that point into the neighbouring HVS. Nigel has evidently gone direct, which really doesn't bear thinking about.

Spoke to Nige last night about this. Apparently Dave's route heads into the Trident from that point, Nige was able to place a nut in the Trident from the arête and continue direct up the arête on 6b moves. I got the impression the top was enjoyable, whereas falling off the lower part was unthinkable!

cofe

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 5796
  • Karma: +187/-5
#4502 Re: significant repeats
April 03, 2014, 12:02:38 pm
Holy shitbags.

SA Chris

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 29221
  • Karma: +630/-11
    • http://groups.msn.com/ChrisClix
#4503 Re: significant repeats
April 03, 2014, 12:06:00 pm
direct up the arête on 6b moves.

Doesn't look like 6b ground to me. Kershaw 6b perhaps.

standard

Offline
  • ***
  • obsessive maniac
  • Posts: 327
  • Karma: +9/-1
#4504 Re: significant repeats
April 03, 2014, 01:02:19 pm
Niky Ceria has done Off The Wagon. Seems settled at 8B+ now, so maybe not so significant?

video in the QBV thread http://ukbouldering.com/board/index.php/topic,4073.msg442686.html#msg442686

Nigel

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 1755
  • Karma: +165/-1
#4505 Re: significant repeats
April 03, 2014, 01:15:15 pm
Thanks chaps! In answer to some of the questions; to best of my knowledge this was the second ascent of MaDMAn, although you never know, it has been nearly twenty years since the FA! From the position Dave is in that picture his original line bridges out into Trident, the neighbouring HVS, and finishes up this. This manoeuvre is still tricky! On the day the very green sidewalls of Trident were pretty gopping too. I found that if instead you did another move up to stand higher (eeek!) on the "ledge" then you could reach round enough to get a bomber rock 12 in the base of the wedged block trident feature after which the HVS is named (although not enough to actually reach any holds / an HVS position!), then just carry straight on up the upper arête from the same spot. Its a balancey position and feels pretty spooky / falloffable to place but it is definitely en route and seemed like a good idea as the route was wet when we arrived and the upper section relies on quite a few pebble footholds and recently de-mossed handholds. Top section probably E6 6b on its own and you could actually do it as a separate route starting up Trident I suppose? Its really excellent climbing. As TB says once you get that gear in the top feels very enjoyable so I doubt it changes the original grade. I see it as an extension to MaDMAn rather than a new route, obviously if Dave Pegg had bothered to take a rope and harness he would have cruised up it I'm sure.

Unusually for me I do have a bit of video as I'd been away at the weekend and found my shitty digi camera still in my bag. Show's a belayer's eye view of getting to the ledge but then mem card got full I think? Would have stopped there anyway probs as Bob had to transfer from spectator to belayer. It really is the worst climbing video I've ever seen but will try to get it up if folk are interested.

Fiend

Offline
  • *
  • _
  • forum hero
  • Abominable sex magick practitioner and climbing heathen
  • Posts: 13413
  • Karma: +676/-67
  • Whut
#4506 Re: significant repeats
April 03, 2014, 01:21:31 pm
Good report Nige :)

Wood FT

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 2951
  • Karma: +162/-8
#4507 Re: significant repeats
April 03, 2014, 01:48:55 pm
It really is the worst climbing video I've ever seen but will try to get it up if folk are interested.

sold!

Nibile

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 7991
  • Karma: +743/-4
  • Part Animal Part Machine
    • TOTOLORE
#4508 Re: significant repeats
April 03, 2014, 02:25:46 pm
Shit. A. Brick.

Nigel

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 1755
  • Karma: +165/-1
#4509 Re: significant repeats
April 03, 2014, 02:27:19 pm
Here you go. Massively foreshortened arse shot of half a route (99% of original MaDMAn though, ends at me stood on ledge, none of upper bit soz)...I did warn you it was shit!


GCW

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • No longer a
  • Posts: 8172
  • Karma: +364/-38
#4510 Re: significant repeats
April 03, 2014, 02:28:45 pm
Private video?

Nigel

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 1755
  • Karma: +165/-1
#4511 Re: significant repeats
April 03, 2014, 02:30:37 pm
Should work now hopefully.

shark

Online
  • *****
  • Administrator
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 8697
  • Karma: +625/-17
  • insect overlord #1
#4512 Re: significant repeats
April 03, 2014, 02:36:35 pm


Presumably that should read: "coming up for air"

casa

Offline
  • **
  • addict
  • Posts: 120
  • Karma: +3/-1
#4513 Re: significant repeats
April 03, 2014, 02:38:14 pm
 :o
Fuck me that looks well scary.
Very impressive climbing Nige  :clap2:

Wood FT

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 2951
  • Karma: +162/-8

slackline

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 18863
  • Karma: +633/-26
    • Sheffield Boulder
#4515 Re: significant repeats
April 03, 2014, 02:43:56 pm

Presumably that should read: "coming up for air"

 :worms:

I always thought the name was a bit of a clue give away.  :shrug:

Fiend

Offline
  • *
  • _
  • forum hero
  • Abominable sex magick practitioner and climbing heathen
  • Posts: 13413
  • Karma: +676/-67
  • Whut
#4516 Re: significant repeats
April 03, 2014, 02:48:55 pm
Nice one Nige, the obligatory portrait format and all  :)

nai

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 4008
  • Karma: +206/-1
  • In my dreams
#4517 Re: significant repeats
April 03, 2014, 02:49:40 pm
Was there a story in OTE about his first attempt at it? Think it was this route, certainly something at Wimberry.  He decided aganst it at that point and had to have a rope dropped down which was hanging in space behind him (presumably to the right in the picture). So he had to leap for it, then lock-off and clip in to a krab, only managing it at the third lock-off attempt. Not sure why I'd remember a tale like that 20 years on

SA Chris

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 29221
  • Karma: +630/-11
    • http://groups.msn.com/ChrisClix
#4518 Re: significant repeats
April 03, 2014, 03:31:52 pm
I remember hearing the story, but didn't know it was this route.

Andy B

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 1838
  • Karma: +97/-3
  • fishie in a dishie
#4519 Re: significant repeats
April 03, 2014, 03:39:52 pm
I thought that was on Possessed.

Teaboy

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 1176
  • Karma: +72/-2
#4520 Re: significant repeats
April 03, 2014, 03:47:24 pm
He originally gave this E7 didn't he? I see in the picture thatFiend scanned it says E8, I'm guessing that is the accepted grade?

Grubes

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 1440
  • Karma: +50/-0
  • Fat and Weak
#4521 Re: significant repeats
April 03, 2014, 04:22:16 pm
I know martin upgraded A few things based on people trying routes.

I guess he asked kev thaw what he thought of it

nai

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 4008
  • Karma: +206/-1
  • In my dreams
#4522 Re: significant repeats
April 03, 2014, 04:39:18 pm
I thought that was on Possessed.

Fair does, that has gear so maybe more likely to have been wearing a harness.

Jaspersharpe

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • 1B punter
  • Posts: 12344
  • Karma: +600/-20
  • Allez Oleeeve!
#4523 Re: significant repeats
April 03, 2014, 05:32:59 pm
That story can't be right as it would require Pego to be able to lock off.

Nigel

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 1755
  • Karma: +165/-1
#4524 Re: significant repeats
April 03, 2014, 06:04:39 pm
He originally gave this E7 didn't he? I see in the picture thatFiend scanned it says E8, I'm guessing that is the accepted grade?

Yes this was originally given E7 by Dave Pegg. I seem to remember reading somewhere that perhaps it lost some pebbles? Anyhow, something must have prompted the guide writers to upgrade it to E8 6b. And they're probably right. I'm no good with grades but lets just say its more E8 than E7. In fact its more E8 than most E8's, especially with the direct finish.

A quick read of the grit list confirms that the rope rescue story was on The Possessed.

 

SimplePortal 2.3.7 © 2008-2024, SimplePortal