UKBouldering.com

significant repeats (Read 3444554 times)

Fiend

Offline
  • *
  • _
  • forum hero
  • Abominable sex magick practitioner and climbing heathen
  • Posts: 12549
  • Karma: +610/-66
  • Whut
#4500 Re: significant repeats
April 02, 2014, 09:57:08 pm
Wimberry rampage  :strongbench:

Nibile

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 7897
  • Karma: +730/-4
  • Part Animal Part Machine
    • TOTOLORE
#4501 Re: significant repeats
April 02, 2014, 10:04:17 pm
Any pocs of the route? I'm really curious! Must be something!

Wood FT

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 2910
  • Karma: +156/-8
#4502 Re: significant repeats
April 02, 2014, 10:28:02 pm
Best grit season ever /dunne

?

Was there a particular Brown/Whillans rampage year in the 50s, or was it spread through the decade? Ditto Allen/Bancroft mid 70s?


I think in terms of hard new routes/repeats in one season it's got to be up there, with the likes of the '86 Dawes season at least. You obviously have to take into account the factor of F as well, F = Fuck all new stuff about.

turnipturned

Offline
  • ****
  • forum abuser
  • Posts: 695
  • Karma: +101/-1
#4503 Re: significant repeats
April 02, 2014, 10:34:57 pm
 JFree did overjustified this evening.... Nice early tick! Let's hope for more!

Nibile

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 7897
  • Karma: +730/-4
  • Part Animal Part Machine
    • TOTOLORE
#4504 Re: significant repeats
April 02, 2014, 10:40:15 pm
Any pocs of the route? I'm really curious! Must be something!
Pics. Any pics of the route.

Grubes

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 1456
  • Karma: +50/-0
  • Fat and Weak
#4505 Re: significant repeats
April 02, 2014, 11:38:10 pm
MaDMAn has my favourite grit trad photo. Dave peg on the rest looking terrified not clear how he got there or where he goes next. Trying to find it on the internet

-edit- well done Nige almost definitely the second ascent after 20years?

Sorry nibs can't find a copy searching internet on my phone the PIC is in over the moors I am away so can't grab the guide to scan
« Last Edit: April 02, 2014, 11:53:14 pm by Grubes »

andy popp

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 5263
  • Karma: +321/-4
#4506 Re: significant repeats
April 03, 2014, 07:03:41 am
MaDMAn was by far the most horrifying of all the grit routes I did/looked at when I was doing that sort of thing. I was very happy to turn my back on it and walk away. That its gone so long without a repeat (given who's been operating at Wimberry in recent years) is some testament.

SA Chris

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 27648
  • Karma: +579/-11
    • http://groups.msn.com/ChrisClix
#4507 Re: significant repeats
April 03, 2014, 08:14:32 am
Pics. Any pics of the route.

Which one Nibs? MaDMAn?

Nibile

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 7897
  • Karma: +730/-4
  • Part Animal Part Machine
    • TOTOLORE
#4508 Re: significant repeats
April 03, 2014, 08:39:29 am
Yes.

SA Chris

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 27648
  • Karma: +579/-11
    • http://groups.msn.com/ChrisClix
#4509 Re: significant repeats
April 03, 2014, 09:24:33 am
Someone will need to scan the Dave Pegg pic, but I think it's line 6 here

http://www.ukclimbing.com/images/dbpage.html?id=125664

Fiend

Offline
  • *
  • _
  • forum hero
  • Abominable sex magick practitioner and climbing heathen
  • Posts: 12549
  • Karma: +610/-66
  • Whut
#4510 Re: significant repeats
April 03, 2014, 10:21:20 am


Nice rest ledge Dave!

WTF is he doing up there in weather that warrants a vest and shorts?? Okay most weather warrants a vest, but summer hard grit? Yikes.


tomtom

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 20479
  • Karma: +638/-11
#4511 Re: significant repeats
April 03, 2014, 10:27:58 am
Thats one hell of a picture... thanks Fiend.

GCW

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • No longer a
  • Posts: 8219
  • Karma: +362/-38
#4512 Re: significant repeats
April 03, 2014, 10:36:53 am
Ahead of his time.

Johnny Brown

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 11164
  • Karma: +651/-21
#4513 Re: significant repeats
April 03, 2014, 10:41:07 am
Vest and shorts! You've got to wonder how warm was it?

Danny

Offline
  • ****
  • junky
  • Posts: 827
  • Karma: +40/-3
#4514 Re: significant repeats
April 03, 2014, 11:08:43 am
The spectators look a bit more togged up, perhaps that's just the way he rolled. Is there a thread for iconic shots (not just generic old school pics)? If there isn't there should be, and this should be in it.

andy popp

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 5263
  • Karma: +321/-4
#4515 Re: significant repeats
April 03, 2014, 11:12:17 am
Dave's route went left from that point into the neighbouring HVS. Nigel has evidently gone direct, which really doesn't bear thinking about.

pjkp

Offline
  • *
  • newbie
  • Posts: 10
  • Karma: +0/-0
#4516 Re: significant repeats
April 03, 2014, 11:15:20 am
It's such a good photo of Dave Pegg, looked at the route the other date when I was up there with Pete.
Great effort Nige.

sherlock

Offline
  • ***
  • obsessive maniac
  • Posts: 313
  • Karma: +18/-0
#4517 Re: significant repeats
April 03, 2014, 11:42:29 am
Never seen that pic before.Fuckin hell.
Thanks Fiend.I think.

T_B

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 2903
  • Karma: +137/-5
#4518 Re: significant repeats
April 03, 2014, 11:49:49 am
Dave's route went left from that point into the neighbouring HVS. Nigel has evidently gone direct, which really doesn't bear thinking about.

Spoke to Nige last night about this. Apparently Dave's route heads into the Trident from that point, Nige was able to place a nut in the Trident from the arÍte and continue direct up the arÍte on 6b moves. I got the impression the top was enjoyable, whereas falling off the lower part was unthinkable!

cofe

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 5783
  • Karma: +184/-5
#4519 Re: significant repeats
April 03, 2014, 12:02:38 pm
Holy shitbags.

SA Chris

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 27648
  • Karma: +579/-11
    • http://groups.msn.com/ChrisClix
#4520 Re: significant repeats
April 03, 2014, 12:06:00 pm
direct up the arÍte on 6b moves.

Doesn't look like 6b ground to me. Kershaw 6b perhaps.

standard

Offline
  • ***
  • obsessive maniac
  • Posts: 330
  • Karma: +9/-1
#4521 Re: significant repeats
April 03, 2014, 01:02:19 pm
Niky Ceria has done Off The Wagon. Seems settled at 8B+ now, so maybe not so significant?

video in the QBV thread http://ukbouldering.com/board/index.php/topic,4073.msg442686.html#msg442686

Nigel

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 1718
  • Karma: +153/-1
#4522 Re: significant repeats
April 03, 2014, 01:15:15 pm
Thanks chaps! In answer to some of the questions; to best of my knowledge this was the second ascent of MaDMAn, although you never know, it has been nearly twenty years since the FA! From the position Dave is in that picture his original line bridges out into Trident, the neighbouring HVS, and finishes up this. This manoeuvre is still tricky! On the day the very green sidewalls of Trident were pretty gopping too. I found that if instead you did another move up to stand higher (eeek!) on the "ledge" then you could reach round enough to get a bomber rock 12 in the base of the wedged block trident feature after which the HVS is named (although not enough to actually reach any holds / an HVS position!), then just carry straight on up the upper arÍte from the same spot. Its a balancey position and feels pretty spooky / falloffable to place but it is definitely en route and seemed like a good idea as the route was wet when we arrived and the upper section relies on quite a few pebble footholds and recently de-mossed handholds. Top section probably E6 6b on its own and you could actually do it as a separate route starting up Trident I suppose? Its really excellent climbing. As TB says once you get that gear in the top feels very enjoyable so I doubt it changes the original grade. I see it as an extension to MaDMAn rather than a new route, obviously if Dave Pegg had bothered to take a rope and harness he would have cruised up it I'm sure.

Unusually for me I do have a bit of video as I'd been away at the weekend and found my shitty digi camera still in my bag. Show's a belayer's eye view of getting to the ledge but then mem card got full I think? Would have stopped there anyway probs as Bob had to transfer from spectator to belayer. It really is the worst climbing video I've ever seen but will try to get it up if folk are interested.

Fiend

Offline
  • *
  • _
  • forum hero
  • Abominable sex magick practitioner and climbing heathen
  • Posts: 12549
  • Karma: +610/-66
  • Whut
#4523 Re: significant repeats
April 03, 2014, 01:21:31 pm
Good report Nige :)

Wood FT

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 2910
  • Karma: +156/-8
#4524 Re: significant repeats
April 03, 2014, 01:48:55 pm
It really is the worst climbing video I've ever seen but will try to get it up if folk are interested.

sold!

 

SimplePortal 2.3.7 © 2008-2022, SimplePortal