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significant repeats (Read 3591642 times)

Bonjoy

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#4375 Re: significant repeats
February 28, 2014, 05:05:41 pm
Nice one Tom. Awesome effort.  :beer2:

Falling Down

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#4376 Re: significant repeats
February 28, 2014, 05:14:24 pm
Robin Barker I think?

Yes it was Mr B.  Way back as we shared an office at Sheffield Hallam doing our PhDs and I held his ropes on one attempt. Must have been '93 or '94.

shurt

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#4377 Re: significant repeats
February 28, 2014, 06:50:58 pm
Great new that, really good effort.

Sean Myles is an absolute legend and the amount of repeats of this only confirm that. I thought the way Rodney Mullen was first written up in Yorkshire Grit was a massive diss and not very nice at all.

Stu Littlefair

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#4378 Re: significant repeats
February 28, 2014, 07:15:55 pm
Sodding great effort. I believe that Robin put in the gear on lead as well, but he had slightly newer pegs to work with.

Tommy

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#4379 Re: significant repeats
February 28, 2014, 10:49:04 pm
Thanks guys :-)

I hope that more people get on this route now! Such amazing moves and really diverse in the skill set needed for it. Good mono action on it too  :punk:

Useful info:

1. At the mid-height peg cluster that was tied off - there were 1 x ok peg + 2 total shit peg. One snapped before I'd even got body weight on it so I replaced it like for like. So there is now 1 good, 1 ok, 1 total shit. As soon as someone falls off at crux I suspect the shit one will break.

2. Headwall peg 1 = ok ish, bendy.

3. Headwall peg 2 = cracked half way through. Be really careful with it!

4. Sickle crack = couple of RPs. Lots of options.


nik at work

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#4380 Re: significant repeats
March 01, 2014, 07:26:30 am
Nice one Tommy :2thumbsup:

andyd

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#4381 Re: significant repeats
March 01, 2014, 08:48:36 am
Nice one Tom :strongbench:

Mark Lloyd

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#4382 Re: significant repeats
March 01, 2014, 10:45:53 am
Can I ask the obvious question and probably be shot down in flames should we really be replacing pegs on the grit ? I,d probably go even further and say should they be removed and the route could then be a challenge for the yoof

shurt

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#4383 Re: significant repeats
March 01, 2014, 04:39:29 pm
Can I ask the obvious question and probably be shot down in flames should we really be replacing pegs on the grit ? I,d probably go even further and say should they be removed and the route could then be a challenge for the yoof

its quarried (or was drilled in preparation for blasting) so guess its a grey area. if someone wants to remove them and improve the style of the ascent then great but blanket removal seems a bit wanky to me...

dave

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#4384 Re: significant repeats
March 01, 2014, 04:44:43 pm
I'm hearing Nige has done p-widdy's contortionist direct to braille trail. Anyone confirm?

Nibile

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#4385 Re: significant repeats
March 01, 2014, 06:20:48 pm
Where does Captain Invincible goes after reaching the left-rising break?

Fiend

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#4386 Re: significant repeats
March 01, 2014, 06:22:10 pm
Can I ask the obvious question and probably be shot down in flames should we really be replacing pegs on the grit ? I,d probably go even further and say should they be removed and the route could then be a challenge for the yoof
Started a thread here to keep the sig rep thread clear: http://ukbouldering.com/board/index.php/topic,23789.0.html

Doylo

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#4387 Re: significant repeats
March 01, 2014, 06:30:49 pm

I'm hearing Nige has done p-widdy's contortionist direct to braille trail. Anyone confirm?

Effort Nige! Can't help but feel a little unsettled about you doing necky stuff with your track record of twatting yourself though!  :smart:

Wood FT

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#4388 Re: significant repeats
March 01, 2014, 09:52:56 pm
I'm hearing Nige has done p-widdy's contortionist direct to braille trail. Anyone confirm?


Confirmed. Really impressive, remember seeing pete on video doing it and it just looked insane. Top climbing, scary as fuck to watch!

Fiend

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#4389 Re: significant repeats
March 01, 2014, 09:58:34 pm
Confirmed how? Come on be a bit less obtuse, these repeats are all rivetting stuff.

Gus

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#4390 Re: significant repeats
March 01, 2014, 10:23:46 pm
Confirmed how? Come on be a bit less obtuse, these repeats are all rivetting stuff.

Well, we all watched Nige do it, that's how. Full Waddage!

nik at work

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#4391 Re: significant repeats
March 01, 2014, 10:32:30 pm
Brilliant, did he have to do the same eating his own foot act? Or was a more conventional technique found?

Wood FT

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#4392 Re: significant repeats
March 01, 2014, 10:57:34 pm
Confirmed how? Come on be a bit less obtuse, these repeats are all rivetting stuff.

Confusing post sorry - Nige crushed the route in the same mad mad way as Pete. Maximum respect.

Fiend

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#4393 Re: significant repeats
March 02, 2014, 09:50:09 am
Gus, well I wasn't out there watching, duh. That's why a little more information is useful.

 :strongbench::2thumbsup::punk: etc etc. Line of the crag, surely.

pjkp

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#4394 Re: significant repeats
March 02, 2014, 10:32:32 am
Brilliant brilliant effort Nige, so great to see this get a repeat. Almost 6 years since Pete did it (14.3.08). Not sure who had the job of belaying this time but well done whoever it was, a scary job!!!!

DaveC

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#4395 Re: significant repeats
March 02, 2014, 10:41:21 am
A little  :jab: for everybody. Who's Nige? It's great to get news of what's being done but could you all remember that not everybody is on first name / nickname terms with everybody in the British climbing scene!

Doylo

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#4396 Re: significant repeats
March 02, 2014, 11:12:44 am
Officially Neil Kershaw

scottygillery

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shark

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#4398 Re: significant repeats
March 02, 2014, 06:46:04 pm
From Oli Groundfall / twitter


petejh

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#4399 Re: significant repeats
March 02, 2014, 07:13:54 pm
I'd assumed it was Nigel Shepherd of 'Manual of Modern Rope Techniques' fame... oh well.


 

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