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significant repeats (Read 4233846 times)

Nibile

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#4075 Re: significant repeats
October 24, 2013, 11:53:43 pm
Jesus Christ.
Legend.

Greg C

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#4076 Re: significant repeats
October 25, 2013, 01:45:46 pm
Edit: Ooops, wrong thread.

rodma

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#4077 Re: significant repeats
October 25, 2013, 05:16:53 pm

tomtom

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#4078 Re: significant repeats
October 25, 2013, 05:45:23 pm
http://www.flickr.com/photos/beastmaker/10307407215/#secret328c77982f



never mind knee pads, are bum-hop starts even remotely legit?  ::)

back around

I wondered that - but being a tall fella I recon its in :)

JackAus

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#4079 Re: significant repeats
November 01, 2013, 12:35:43 am
Jan Hojer crushed Trip Hop 8C and L'Apparemment Assis 8B+ today.

leeroy

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#4080 Re: significant repeats
November 03, 2013, 08:21:28 pm
big day at black rocks, mason squashed meshuga in about half an hour, then k-whiddy did gaia. big day on grit all round, jacob cook did new statesman aswell....

Wood FT

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#4081 Re: significant repeats
November 03, 2013, 09:04:13 pm
Amazing!

andy popp

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#4082 Re: significant repeats
November 03, 2013, 09:18:08 pm
Good show everyone.

Luke Owens

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#4083 Re: significant repeats
November 05, 2013, 08:58:05 am
Leeroy has repeated Knockin'. Effort!  :clap2:

Wood FT

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#4084 Re: significant repeats
November 09, 2013, 07:37:15 pm
Cailean Harker climbed Careless torque today, very impressive

Muenchener

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#4085 Re: significant repeats
November 09, 2013, 09:58:31 pm
Cailean Harker climbed Careless torque today, very impressive

Apologies Cailean whoever you are, but from the name I am completely failing to work out whether this is the second female ascent.

csl

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#4086 Re: significant repeats
November 09, 2013, 10:31:32 pm

Wood FT

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#4087 Re: significant repeats
November 09, 2013, 10:52:13 pm
Cailean Harker climbed Careless torque today, very impressive

Apologies Cailean whoever you are, but from the name I am completely failing to work out whether this is the second female ascent.

Male,  strongest name at the crag that day

haydn jones

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#4088 Re: significant repeats
November 09, 2013, 11:48:41 pm
Was talking with him last week he almost done it in his first session falling twice on the last move, strong guy!

shark

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#4089 Re: significant repeats
November 10, 2013, 08:01:38 pm
Was told that Ryan repeated Steveolution (AKA New Thing) last week.

Apparently he thought it was no harder than Evolution - tricky thing grading recovery linkups.    :worms:

Wood FT

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#4090 Re: significant repeats
November 10, 2013, 08:48:13 pm
is this the one that goes into Kaabah from evol? Good safety tick there by Ryan

shark

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#4091 Re: significant repeats
November 11, 2013, 12:02:46 pm
is this the one that goes into Kaabah from evol? Good safety tick there by Ryan

Currently in draft for the guide as follows:

Stevolution F9a 2008
25m From the massive flake where Evolution ends, step
leftwards and straight into Kabbah. An obvious and superb
link-up, unrepeated at the time of writing.

Will need changing...

Doylo

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#4092 Re: significant repeats
November 11, 2013, 12:10:17 pm
is Pascal fitter than Mcclure?  :o :o a harder grader??  :o :o or just twice the size.....

Stu Littlefair

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#4093 Re: significant repeats
November 11, 2013, 12:17:30 pm
Steve said it was 8c+ ish when he did it. Just another victim of sharks upgrading rampage

abarro81

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#4094 Re: significant repeats
November 11, 2013, 01:02:10 pm
I don't see how this can be the same grade as Kaabah. If evo-kaabah goes in at 8c+ then kaabah should be 8c, in which case mecca ext needs to go to 8b+ and mecca to 8b. It's got to be at least a grade harder than Progress surely (from my extensive 1 day trying Progress)? I talked to Steve about this sometime this year. I think we agreed that for evo-kaabah and for mecca extension it's the case that if the first part is at your limit then the whole thing will feel a grade harder, whereas if the first part isn't at your limit and you can do it 5 times in a day (!) then you might think they were both the same grade. Much like stamina routes always feel easy if they're below your limit. It was always on Steve's website routes list as 9a.

Kingy

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#4095 Re: significant repeats
November 11, 2013, 01:33:24 pm
I agree if Evo/ Kabaah is 8c+ then Kabaah isn't 8c+ and should go down to 8c. They can't both be the same grade IMO. The grade of Kabaah was given in 2004 without the kneebar that everybody uses now. It is now therefore easier with the kneebar than when first done - this could possibly justify a downgrade to 8c. To my knowledge, nobody has done it without the kneebar other than Steve.  It is more important on Kabaah than the extension as there is no massive resting flake to get it all back after Mecca. If this was to occur then I concur Mecca has to go down to 8b and the extension to 8b+ in my view.

Doylo

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#4096 Re: significant repeats
November 11, 2013, 01:37:45 pm
I thought Smitton did Kabaaah without the kneebar but may have imagined that. Ryan's done 3 8c+/9as now and regarded them all as 8c+.

shark

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#4097 Re: significant repeats
November 11, 2013, 01:55:07 pm
It was always on Steve's website routes list as 9a.

Thank you Alex.

Steve said it was 8c+ ish when he did it. Just another victim of sharks upgrading rampage

 :chair:

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#4098 Re: significant repeats
November 11, 2013, 03:16:40 pm
http://www.steve-mcclure.com/images/routelist3.jpg

Quote
could be 8c+ really but a lot of effort at this.

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