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significant repeats (Read 2884816 times)

Wood FT

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#4100 Re: significant repeats
November 09, 2013, 07:37:15 pm
Cailean Harker climbed Careless torque today, very impressive

Muenchener

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#4101 Re: significant repeats
November 09, 2013, 09:58:31 pm
Cailean Harker climbed Careless torque today, very impressive

Apologies Cailean whoever you are, but from the name I am completely failing to work out whether this is the second female ascent.

csl

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#4102 Re: significant repeats
November 09, 2013, 10:31:32 pm

Wood FT

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#4103 Re: significant repeats
November 09, 2013, 10:52:13 pm
Cailean Harker climbed Careless torque today, very impressive

Apologies Cailean whoever you are, but from the name I am completely failing to work out whether this is the second female ascent.

Male,  strongest name at the crag that day

haydn jones

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#4104 Re: significant repeats
November 09, 2013, 11:48:41 pm
Was talking with him last week he almost done it in his first session falling twice on the last move, strong guy!

shark

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#4105 Re: significant repeats
November 10, 2013, 08:01:38 pm
Was told that Ryan repeated Steveolution (AKA New Thing) last week.

Apparently he thought it was no harder than Evolution - tricky thing grading recovery linkups.    :worms:

Wood FT

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#4106 Re: significant repeats
November 10, 2013, 08:48:13 pm
is this the one that goes into Kaabah from evol? Good safety tick there by Ryan

shark

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#4107 Re: significant repeats
November 11, 2013, 12:02:46 pm
is this the one that goes into Kaabah from evol? Good safety tick there by Ryan

Currently in draft for the guide as follows:

Stevolution F9a 2008
25m From the massive flake where Evolution ends, step
leftwards and straight into Kabbah. An obvious and superb
link-up, unrepeated at the time of writing.

Will need changing...

Doylo

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#4108 Re: significant repeats
November 11, 2013, 12:10:17 pm
is Pascal fitter than Mcclure?  :o :o a harder grader??  :o :o or just twice the size.....

Stu Littlefair

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#4109 Re: significant repeats
November 11, 2013, 12:17:30 pm
Steve said it was 8c+ ish when he did it. Just another victim of sharks upgrading rampage

abarro81

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#4110 Re: significant repeats
November 11, 2013, 01:02:10 pm
I don't see how this can be the same grade as Kaabah. If evo-kaabah goes in at 8c+ then kaabah should be 8c, in which case mecca ext needs to go to 8b+ and mecca to 8b. It's got to be at least a grade harder than Progress surely (from my extensive 1 day trying Progress)? I talked to Steve about this sometime this year. I think we agreed that for evo-kaabah and for mecca extension it's the case that if the first part is at your limit then the whole thing will feel a grade harder, whereas if the first part isn't at your limit and you can do it 5 times in a day (!) then you might think they were both the same grade. Much like stamina routes always feel easy if they're below your limit. It was always on Steve's website routes list as 9a.

Kingy

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#4111 Re: significant repeats
November 11, 2013, 01:33:24 pm
I agree if Evo/ Kabaah is 8c+ then Kabaah isn't 8c+ and should go down to 8c. They can't both be the same grade IMO. The grade of Kabaah was given in 2004 without the kneebar that everybody uses now. It is now therefore easier with the kneebar than when first done - this could possibly justify a downgrade to 8c. To my knowledge, nobody has done it without the kneebar other than Steve.  It is more important on Kabaah than the extension as there is no massive resting flake to get it all back after Mecca. If this was to occur then I concur Mecca has to go down to 8b and the extension to 8b+ in my view.

Doylo

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#4112 Re: significant repeats
November 11, 2013, 01:37:45 pm
I thought Smitton did Kabaaah without the kneebar but may have imagined that. Ryan's done 3 8c+/9as now and regarded them all as 8c+.

shark

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#4113 Re: significant repeats
November 11, 2013, 01:55:07 pm
It was always on Steve's website routes list as 9a.

Thank you Alex.

Steve said it was 8c+ ish when he did it. Just another victim of sharks upgrading rampage

 :chair:

standard

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#4114 Re: significant repeats
November 11, 2013, 03:16:40 pm
http://www.steve-mcclure.com/images/routelist3.jpg

Quote
could be 8c+ really but a lot of effort at this.

Duma

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abarro81

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#4116 Re: significant repeats
November 11, 2013, 06:19:47 pm
http://www.steve-mcclure.com/images/routelist3.jpg

Quote
could be 8c+ really but a lot of effort at this.

Good find. I'd wondered whether that list had disappeared after he changed his website.

standard

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#4117 Re: significant repeats
November 11, 2013, 10:09:58 pm
http://www.steve-mcclure.com/images/routelist3.jpg

Quote
could be 8c+ really but a lot of effort at this.

Good find. I'd wondered whether that list had disappeared after he changed his website.

Yeah, it was a bit of a treasure hunt.

Wood FT

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#4118 Re: significant repeats
November 13, 2013, 08:51:58 pm
Nathan Lee did The Zone up on curbar today,  if he doesn't slow down he's going to be very bored next winter

Krank

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#4119 Re: significant repeats
November 13, 2013, 09:25:14 pm
He's gonna be bored by January. Beast.

mrjonathanr

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#4120 Re: significant repeats
November 13, 2013, 09:33:20 pm
I thought you must be dead or on the lam..

blacky

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#4121 Re: significant repeats
November 14, 2013, 12:37:27 pm
I thought you must be dead or on the lam..

 :lol:

Krank

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#4122 Re: significant repeats
November 14, 2013, 01:26:09 pm
I thought you must be dead or on the lam..

just lazy mate, very lazy.

Eddies

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#4123 Re: significant repeats
November 14, 2013, 05:40:18 pm
You owe me a fiver JohnR!
We had a book going on you JohnM... Good to hear your still alive ;) x

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#4124 Re: significant repeats
November 17, 2013, 04:22:48 pm
Congratulations to Jacob Cook who today flashed Cindy Crawford (E7/Highball 7C ish) at Ilkley. 3rd ascent following John Dunne and Dave Sutcliffe!

 

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