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significant repeats (Read 4235989 times)

dave

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#3550 Re: significant repeats
March 05, 2013, 06:33:32 pm
Didn't we conclude from the video Nacho had actually done superwoman?

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#3551 Re: significant repeats
March 05, 2013, 08:49:15 pm
Barrows has done the 2nd ascent of Malc Smiths Pilgrimage in Parisella's. Pretty significant as the first ascent was back in 2004. It took Malc a significant amount of effort and was likely F9a/+ with his sequence. Barrows reckons it was F8c+ for him with kneebar trickery and rests.

That's a shame
Good effort :)
Though does this mean that if this this same skill is applied on the 9a abroad, ie finding more knee bar rests than previous folk have that a down grade will happen in that case too??

Wood FT

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#3552 Re: significant repeats
March 05, 2013, 09:21:26 pm
Barrows has done the 2nd ascent of Malc Smiths Pilgrimage in Parisella's. Pretty significant as the first ascent was back in 2004. It took Malc a significant amount of effort and was likely F9a/+ with his sequence. Barrows reckons it was F8c+ for him with kneebar trickery and rests.

That's a shame
Good effort :)
Though does this mean that if this this same skill is applied on the 9a abroad, ie finding more knee bar rests than previous folk have that a down grade will happen in that case too??

 :worms:

Doylo

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#3553 Re: significant repeats
March 05, 2013, 09:23:34 pm
Barrows has done the 2nd ascent of Malc Smiths Pilgrimage in Parisella's. Pretty significant as the first ascent was back in 2004. It took Malc a significant amount of effort and was likely F9a/+ with his sequence. Barrows reckons it was F8c+ for him with kneebar trickery and rests.

That's a shame
Good effort :)
Though does this mean that if this this same skill is applied on the 9a abroad, ie finding more knee bar rests than previous folk have that a down grade will happen in that case too??
it should if it makes it a grade easier! Most people just take the tick and run though...

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#3554 Re: significant repeats
March 05, 2013, 09:39:25 pm
What Doyle said. (I include myself in most people)

(If you're asking with reference to my blogged intentions on Abyss then 1. I don't know I've not done it 2. All the knees I found in my 2 days on it aren't new - at least Graham and Raczynski used them and pads) In my experience the Euros, and particuarly the Yanks, have a habit of being better than us at this shit so there's less chance of one of us finding lots of new tricks than over here.

petejh

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#3555 Re: significant repeats
March 05, 2013, 09:58:39 pm
Great. All we need now is a Dead Fit Knee-Barring Birds Who Go Cheating thread so we can ban it for being sexist. (Good effort btw!!)
« Last Edit: March 05, 2013, 10:04:32 pm by petejh »

Dr T

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#3556 Re: significant repeats
March 05, 2013, 10:35:58 pm
According to 8a.nu, Toru Nakajima has repeated The Big Island, among other things (including an 8b flash).
So has Schulte

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#3557 Re: significant repeats
March 05, 2013, 11:13:55 pm
According to 8a.nu, Toru Nakajima has repeated The Big Island, among other things (including an 8b flash).
So has Schulte

Inspiring! Ties in nicely with the recent thread on Long term projecteering

Quote from: R&I
My resolve is unshakeable, thankfully," wrote Schulte in "Origin of Species," an article he published in the December 2011 issue of Rock and Ice. "I know I'll climb the thing sometime, maybe next season, and until I do, I get to work on one of the best climbs I've ever tried."

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#3558 Re: significant repeats
March 06, 2013, 11:08:15 am
Dave Mason has done Superman, great effort. Vid here:

Amazing effort!  :beer2:

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#3559 Re: significant repeats
March 06, 2013, 11:45:35 am
Barrows has done the 2nd ascent of Malc Smiths Pilgrimage in Parisella's. Pretty significant as the first ascent was back in 2004. It took Malc a significant amount of effort and was likely F9a/+ with his sequence. Barrows reckons it was F8c+ for him with kneebar trickery and rests.



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Wood FT

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#3560 Re: significant repeats
March 06, 2013, 11:53:48 am
Barrows has done the 2nd ascent of Malc Smiths Pilgrimage in Parisella's. Pretty significant as the first ascent was back in 2004. It took Malc a significant amount of effort and was likely F9a/+ with his sequence. Barrows reckons it was F8c+ for him with kneebar trickery and rests.



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I've seen this image before in a dream, but I had an axe, they just kept appearing. . . .

nice one Chris, great sequence

Paul B

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#3561 Re: significant repeats
March 06, 2013, 11:55:11 am
Dave Mason has done Superman, great effort. Vid here.

Nice one Dave but I really hope that video doesn't make it over onto the other channel.

Nibile

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#3562 Re: significant repeats
March 06, 2013, 12:50:53 pm
Dave Mason has done Superman, great effort. Vid here.

Nice one Dave but I really hope that video doesn't make it over onto the other channel.
Interesting post Paul, why do you say so?

a dense loner

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#3563 Re: significant repeats
March 06, 2013, 12:59:43 pm
The areas sensitive nibs. I'd be happy to hear your quote regarding cattle again

Nibile

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#3564 Re: significant repeats
March 06, 2013, 01:08:33 pm
 ;D repetita iuvant:
Quod licet Iovi non licet bovi...

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#3565 Re: significant repeats
March 06, 2013, 01:47:22 pm
Dave Mason has done Superman, great effort. Vid here: vimeo.com/61087896

That video made me smile, but not for the climbing. Lovely. Well done.

Nibile

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#3566 Re: significant repeats
March 06, 2013, 01:55:22 pm
Dave Mason has done Superman, great effort. Vid here: vimeo.com/61087896

That video made me smile, but not for the climbing. Lovely. Well done.
:agree: lovely indeed.

fatneck

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#3567 Re: significant repeats
March 06, 2013, 09:11:12 pm
Amazing stuff from Alex!! Been waiting to see this done for ages. Good work beast...

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#3568 Re: significant repeats
March 07, 2013, 04:01:17 pm
Nice display of steel by DM.

Big props to Alex too, that is a fine effort! Love the £1000 quid of fuel stat, relating to Malc's ascent, on Doylo's blog too.

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#3569 Re: significant repeats
March 08, 2013, 04:23:32 pm
Dave has blogged about climbing Superman

http://www.bigstone.co.uk/news/2013/03/08/SuPERMAN/

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#3570 Re: significant repeats
March 08, 2013, 04:31:40 pm
Nice write up. It's was interesting to hear why he feels it was the most important climb of his life, it makes it sound like he did it very quickly as well.
Well done Dave!  :strongbench:

a dense loner

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#3571 Re: significant repeats
March 08, 2013, 04:48:10 pm
I don't normally read blogs since the ones I have are mostly in some way egotistical drivel but that was a good write-up dave

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#3572 Re: significant repeats
March 08, 2013, 04:49:53 pm
I agree. Completely understand the sentiment too. I love that place.

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#3573 Re: significant repeats
March 08, 2013, 05:26:40 pm
nice little blog. I love the place too, spent weeks of my life down there.

I had no idea it was broken, whats gone? The side pull i guess?

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#3574 Re: significant repeats
March 08, 2013, 09:56:03 pm
Yeah. Jerry fixed it a couple of years ago but it broke again soon after. Shame cos it was a lovely hold.

 

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