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significant repeats (Read 2884853 times)

jwi

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#3550 Re: significant repeats
February 26, 2013, 11:06:23 am
According to 8a.nu, Toru Nakajima has repeated The Big Island, among other things (including an 8b flash).

slackline

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#3551 Re: significant repeats
February 26, 2013, 11:21:49 am
According to 8a.nu, Toru Nakajima has repeated The Big Island, among other things (including an 8b flash).

Tommy tweeted this yesterday...

Quote from: Tommy
The Traphouse Short 8B Flash, Sideways Daze 8B, Satan I Helvet 8B, Elephunk 8B, Gecko assis 8B+, The Traphouse 8B+, Big Island 8C

No doubt simply whats up on 8a.nu (but I don't even bother looking at 8a.nu, candidate for the worst organised site out there).

jwi

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#3552 Re: significant repeats
February 26, 2013, 11:43:17 am
Thanks, I spent a few seconds trying to find the original source, but got sidetracked when I start wondering how to write his given name (it is 徹 by the way)

Doylo

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#3553 Re: significant repeats
March 03, 2013, 09:15:49 pm
Le Proue 8b flashed in cresciano by Jorg Verhoeven. One hell of a flash that!

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#3554 Re: significant repeats
March 05, 2013, 02:36:10 pm
Dave Mason has done Superman, great effort. Vid here:

Doylo

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#3555 Re: significant repeats
March 05, 2013, 04:33:53 pm
Barrows has done the 2nd ascent of Malc Smiths Pilgrimage in Parisella's. Pretty significant as the first ascent was back in 2004. It took Malc a significant amount of effort and was likely F9a/+ with his sequence. Barrows reckons it was F8c+ for him with kneebar trickery and rests.

andy_e

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#3556 Re: significant repeats
March 05, 2013, 04:35:58 pm
Two hard limestone ascents! Grit season is over! That means I'll have the grit all to myself again! Good effort both.

dave

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#3557 Re: significant repeats
March 05, 2013, 04:41:16 pm
Dave Mason has done Superman, great effort. Vid here:

Fuck careless torque, THIS is news.

willackers

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#3558 Re: significant repeats
March 05, 2013, 04:41:30 pm
Barrows has done the 2nd ascent of Malc Smiths Pilgrimage in Parisella's. Pretty significant as the first ascent was back in 2004. It took Malc a significant amount of effort and was likely F9a/+ with his sequence. Barrows reckons it was F8c+ for him with kneebar trickery and rests.

That's a shame

slackline

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#3559 Re: significant repeats
March 05, 2013, 04:45:34 pm
Can you not still do it without knee bars and take whatever grade you think it is?  :shrug:

Doylo

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#3560 Re: significant repeats
March 05, 2013, 05:02:23 pm
Can you not still do it without knee bars and take whatever grade you think it is?  :shrug:
:worms: :worms: :worms: :worms: :w00t:

GCW

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#3561 Re: significant repeats
March 05, 2013, 05:04:52 pm
Dave Mason has done Superman, great effort. Vid here:

Fuck careless torque, THIS is news.

2nd repeat after Tim Clifford?   :worms:

TomP

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#3562 Re: significant repeats
March 05, 2013, 05:58:47 pm
Nice one Dave! Good to see some limey crush!

Please correct me if I'm wrong and it would be really interesting to know but as I understand it, the following have done it since breakage:

Martin smith
Sharik Walker
Mick Adams
nacho
Micky P
Chris WP
Markus bock?

dave

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#3563 Re: significant repeats
March 05, 2013, 06:33:32 pm
Didn't we conclude from the video Nacho had actually done superwoman?

Nike Air

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#3564 Re: significant repeats
March 05, 2013, 08:49:15 pm
Barrows has done the 2nd ascent of Malc Smiths Pilgrimage in Parisella's. Pretty significant as the first ascent was back in 2004. It took Malc a significant amount of effort and was likely F9a/+ with his sequence. Barrows reckons it was F8c+ for him with kneebar trickery and rests.

That's a shame
Good effort :)
Though does this mean that if this this same skill is applied on the 9a abroad, ie finding more knee bar rests than previous folk have that a down grade will happen in that case too??

Wood FT

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#3565 Re: significant repeats
March 05, 2013, 09:21:26 pm
Barrows has done the 2nd ascent of Malc Smiths Pilgrimage in Parisella's. Pretty significant as the first ascent was back in 2004. It took Malc a significant amount of effort and was likely F9a/+ with his sequence. Barrows reckons it was F8c+ for him with kneebar trickery and rests.

That's a shame
Good effort :)
Though does this mean that if this this same skill is applied on the 9a abroad, ie finding more knee bar rests than previous folk have that a down grade will happen in that case too??

 :worms:

Doylo

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#3566 Re: significant repeats
March 05, 2013, 09:23:34 pm
Barrows has done the 2nd ascent of Malc Smiths Pilgrimage in Parisella's. Pretty significant as the first ascent was back in 2004. It took Malc a significant amount of effort and was likely F9a/+ with his sequence. Barrows reckons it was F8c+ for him with kneebar trickery and rests.

That's a shame
Good effort :)
Though does this mean that if this this same skill is applied on the 9a abroad, ie finding more knee bar rests than previous folk have that a down grade will happen in that case too??
it should if it makes it a grade easier! Most people just take the tick and run though...

abarro81

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#3567 Re: significant repeats
March 05, 2013, 09:39:25 pm
What Doyle said. (I include myself in most people)

(If you're asking with reference to my blogged intentions on Abyss then 1. I don't know I've not done it 2. All the knees I found in my 2 days on it aren't new - at least Graham and Raczynski used them and pads) In my experience the Euros, and particuarly the Yanks, have a habit of being better than us at this shit so there's less chance of one of us finding lots of new tricks than over here.

petejh

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#3568 Re: significant repeats
March 05, 2013, 09:58:39 pm
Great. All we need now is a Dead Fit Knee-Barring Birds Who Go Cheating thread so we can ban it for being sexist. (Good effort btw!!)
« Last Edit: March 05, 2013, 10:04:32 pm by petejh »

Dr T

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#3569 Re: significant repeats
March 05, 2013, 10:35:58 pm
According to 8a.nu, Toru Nakajima has repeated The Big Island, among other things (including an 8b flash).
So has Schulte

jwi

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#3570 Re: significant repeats
March 05, 2013, 11:13:55 pm
According to 8a.nu, Toru Nakajima has repeated The Big Island, among other things (including an 8b flash).
So has Schulte

Inspiring! Ties in nicely with the recent thread on Long term projecteering

Quote from: R&I
My resolve is unshakeable, thankfully," wrote Schulte in "Origin of Species," an article he published in the December 2011 issue of Rock and Ice. "I know I'll climb the thing sometime, maybe next season, and until I do, I get to work on one of the best climbs I've ever tried."

Jaspersharpe

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#3571 Re: significant repeats
March 06, 2013, 11:08:15 am
Dave Mason has done Superman, great effort. Vid here:

Amazing effort!  :beer2:

slackline

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#3572 Re: significant repeats
March 06, 2013, 11:45:35 am
Barrows has done the 2nd ascent of Malc Smiths Pilgrimage in Parisella's. Pretty significant as the first ascent was back in 2004. It took Malc a significant amount of effort and was likely F9a/+ with his sequence. Barrows reckons it was F8c+ for him with kneebar trickery and rests.



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Wood FT

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#3573 Re: significant repeats
March 06, 2013, 11:53:48 am
Barrows has done the 2nd ascent of Malc Smiths Pilgrimage in Parisella's. Pretty significant as the first ascent was back in 2004. It took Malc a significant amount of effort and was likely F9a/+ with his sequence. Barrows reckons it was F8c+ for him with kneebar trickery and rests.



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I've seen this image before in a dream, but I had an axe, they just kept appearing. . . .

nice one Chris, great sequence

Paul B

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#3574 Re: significant repeats
March 06, 2013, 11:55:11 am
Dave Mason has done Superman, great effort. Vid here.

Nice one Dave but I really hope that video doesn't make it over onto the other channel.

 

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