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significant repeats (Read 4235535 times)

Fiend

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#3525 Re: significant repeats
February 24, 2013, 09:03:35 am
Good effort stumpie.

BTW, could you zoom in a bit next time on the video, quite a bit of wasted space around the actual climb on that one.

Nibile

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#3526 Re: significant repeats
February 24, 2013, 11:45:02 am
Mina is amazing and Will is nuts.

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#3527 Re: significant repeats
February 24, 2013, 01:56:34 pm
Like ... check Karin Magog's 8a.nu card. 3 x 8b redpoints ( she downgraded one 8b+ to 8b ) 5 x 8a+ rp.... 8 x8a .. 4 of them onsight.  Most since November last year.  Not bad for a girl !!! Brit.

Changed that for you. She's obviously a total wad.

Who's going to be the first brit female to do 8c then? And which route?
Like ... check Karin Magog's 8a.nu card. 3 x 8b redpoints ( she downgraded one 8b+ to 8b ) 5 x 8a+ rp.... 8 x8a .. 4 of them onsight.  Most since November last year.  Not bad for a girl !!! Brit.

Changed that for you. She's obviously a total wad.

Who's going to be the first brit female to do 8c then? And which route?

Yes, and not everyone records stuff on 8a.nu, but on that record, no1 female over 35 global, which is not bad going... probably needs to beef up her bouldering if she is going to do 8c this year....... more likely a British prodigy will appear and do it first...

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#3528 Re: significant repeats
February 24, 2013, 04:58:34 pm
Hazel, Emma Twyford, Shauna and Mina have all got the potential but it depends who wants to put the effort in and siege one. If Karins finds a pumpy wall climb you never know....

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#3529 Re: significant repeats
February 24, 2013, 06:29:06 pm
Mina is amazing and Will is nuts.

I'm sure that sentence could be amusingly re-arranged... :)

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#3530 Re: significant repeats
February 24, 2013, 08:53:12 pm
Nice one Will! I tried this on Tuesday, such a great move up......and across... And I agree about the start, desperate E5!

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#3531 Re: significant repeats
February 24, 2013, 09:23:41 pm
Cheers Andi.

How did you get on with it?, it took me a few goes to get it right, if it was a proper jug you were going to you could be a bit more wild, but because it's flat and quite far back you have to be very precise, absolutely brilliant to have a move like that so high up and in a relatively safe position. Great fun.

 :bounce:

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#3532 Re: significant repeats
February 25, 2013, 08:58:56 am

I thought it was going to be a straight forward dyno but I was very wrong, the jug wasn't nearly as juggy as I was hoping it to be, and the E5 start is one of the most terrifying routes I've ever done!  :o

 ::) Could be because you turned the mid height bulge too far left. This is part of my route Occam’s Raisin (E5 but with runner in crack on left). The usual Pseudonym way to turn the bulge is on the far right end of the feature with a mantel, which is easier and closer to the runner. There’s a video on youtube of someone doing Pseudonym this way.

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#3533 Re: significant repeats
February 25, 2013, 09:31:41 am
I think it's by far the most significant boulder ascent by a British woman. I hope there's more to come from Mina.

Just seen this and  :agree: Absolutely amazing.

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#3534 Re: significant repeats
February 25, 2013, 09:37:47 am

I thought it was going to be a straight forward dyno but I was very wrong, the jug wasn't nearly as juggy as I was hoping it to be, and the E5 start is one of the most terrifying routes I've ever done!  :o

 ::) Could be because you turned the mid height bulge too far left. This is part of my route Occam’s Raisin (E5 but with runner in crack on left). The usual Pseudonym way to turn the bulge is on the far right end of the feature with a mantel, which is easier and closer to the runner. There’s a video on youtube of someone doing Pseudonym this way.

Silly me, can I have an E8 FA?  :whistle:

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#3535 Re: significant repeats
February 25, 2013, 10:44:15 am
Can you bollocks :)

Nice work will, I should have put cash on you to pip Andi T to the post.

Does the guy standing at the top right teleport at 1:15?
« Last Edit: February 25, 2013, 10:50:51 am by SA Chris »

jwi

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#3536 Re: significant repeats
February 26, 2013, 09:58:33 am
Markus Pucher free soloed Cerro Torro last month, by way of the Ragni route.

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#3537 Re: significant repeats
February 26, 2013, 11:06:23 am
According to 8a.nu, Toru Nakajima has repeated The Big Island, among other things (including an 8b flash).

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#3538 Re: significant repeats
February 26, 2013, 11:21:49 am
According to 8a.nu, Toru Nakajima has repeated The Big Island, among other things (including an 8b flash).

Tommy tweeted this yesterday...

Quote from: Tommy
The Traphouse Short 8B Flash, Sideways Daze 8B, Satan I Helvet 8B, Elephunk 8B, Gecko assis 8B+, The Traphouse 8B+, Big Island 8C

No doubt simply whats up on 8a.nu (but I don't even bother looking at 8a.nu, candidate for the worst organised site out there).

jwi

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#3539 Re: significant repeats
February 26, 2013, 11:43:17 am
Thanks, I spent a few seconds trying to find the original source, but got sidetracked when I start wondering how to write his given name (it is 徹 by the way)

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#3540 Re: significant repeats
March 03, 2013, 09:15:49 pm
Le Proue 8b flashed in cresciano by Jorg Verhoeven. One hell of a flash that!

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#3541 Re: significant repeats
March 05, 2013, 02:36:10 pm
Dave Mason has done Superman, great effort. Vid here:

Doylo

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#3542 Re: significant repeats
March 05, 2013, 04:33:53 pm
Barrows has done the 2nd ascent of Malc Smiths Pilgrimage in Parisella's. Pretty significant as the first ascent was back in 2004. It took Malc a significant amount of effort and was likely F9a/+ with his sequence. Barrows reckons it was F8c+ for him with kneebar trickery and rests.

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#3543 Re: significant repeats
March 05, 2013, 04:35:58 pm
Two hard limestone ascents! Grit season is over! That means I'll have the grit all to myself again! Good effort both.

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#3544 Re: significant repeats
March 05, 2013, 04:41:16 pm
Dave Mason has done Superman, great effort. Vid here:

Fuck careless torque, THIS is news.

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#3545 Re: significant repeats
March 05, 2013, 04:41:30 pm
Barrows has done the 2nd ascent of Malc Smiths Pilgrimage in Parisella's. Pretty significant as the first ascent was back in 2004. It took Malc a significant amount of effort and was likely F9a/+ with his sequence. Barrows reckons it was F8c+ for him with kneebar trickery and rests.

That's a shame

slackline

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#3546 Re: significant repeats
March 05, 2013, 04:45:34 pm
Can you not still do it without knee bars and take whatever grade you think it is?  :shrug:

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#3547 Re: significant repeats
March 05, 2013, 05:02:23 pm
Can you not still do it without knee bars and take whatever grade you think it is?  :shrug:
:worms: :worms: :worms: :worms: :w00t:

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#3548 Re: significant repeats
March 05, 2013, 05:04:52 pm
Dave Mason has done Superman, great effort. Vid here:

Fuck careless torque, THIS is news.

2nd repeat after Tim Clifford?   :worms:

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#3549 Re: significant repeats
March 05, 2013, 05:58:47 pm
Nice one Dave! Good to see some limey crush!

Please correct me if I'm wrong and it would be really interesting to know but as I understand it, the following have done it since breakage:

Martin smith
Sharik Walker
Mick Adams
nacho
Micky P
Chris WP
Markus bock?

 

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