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significant repeats (Read 2884842 times)

slackline

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#3525 Re: significant repeats
February 22, 2013, 04:29:31 pm
No knee-bars on Careless Torque. :clown:

abarro81

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#3526 Re: significant repeats
February 22, 2013, 04:39:08 pm
I concur that GUing careless is definitely more impressive than doing Mecca.

duncan

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#3527 Re: significant repeats
February 22, 2013, 05:29:49 pm
Hazel Findlay joins the rather select UK women's 8b+ club with Kale Barroka.

Paul T

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#3528 Re: significant repeats
February 23, 2013, 02:52:37 pm
Caroline Sino (of Crimp Oil fame) has just done Lethal Design in Red Rocks. She's super talented and improving at a very fast rate.

Drew

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#3529 Re: significant repeats
February 23, 2013, 07:53:30 pm
Am I the only one to whom that means nothing? A link might give it some context.

IS2

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#3530 Re: significant repeats
February 23, 2013, 09:27:00 pm
Like ... check Karin Magog's 8a.nu card. 3 x 8b redpoints ( she downgraded one 8b+ to 8b ) 5 x 8a+ rp.... 8 x8a .. 4 of them onsight.  Most since November last year.  Not bad for a girl !!! 

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#3531 Re: significant repeats
February 23, 2013, 10:33:37 pm
Caroline Sino (of Crimp Oil fame) has just done Lethal Design in Red Rocks. She's super talented and improving at a very fast rate.

Am I the only one to whom that means nothing? A link might give it some context.

Seems like the problem is a long, steep, crimpy V12. Here's a vid of someone attempting a flash.


dave

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#3532 Re: significant repeats
February 23, 2013, 11:19:20 pm
Has this been mentioned yet?



Good effort etc.

petejh

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#3533 Re: significant repeats
February 23, 2013, 11:31:37 pm
Like ... check Karin Magog's 8a.nu card. 3 x 8b redpoints ( she downgraded one 8b+ to 8b ) 5 x 8a+ rp.... 8 x8a .. 4 of them onsight.  Most since November last year.  Not bad for a girl !!! Brit.

Changed that for you. She's obviously a total wad.

Who's going to be the first brit female to do 8c then? And which route?

a dense loner

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#3534 Re: significant repeats
February 24, 2013, 06:57:36 am
The lethal design vid said the guy was called Ben but I'm pretty sure it was nige.

Devil in the details looks cool but out of everyone under 6ft5's league. It must be a second ascent Will unless Willenburg came over and added a sitter

T_B

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#3535 Re: significant repeats
February 24, 2013, 07:52:18 am
Has this been mentioned yet?



Good effort etc.

Brilliant Will! It had your name on it ;)

willackers

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#3536 Re: significant repeats
February 24, 2013, 08:09:52 am
Has this been mentioned yet?



Good effort etc.

Brilliant Will! It had your name on it ;)

Thanks Tom!

I thought it was going to be a straight forward dyno but I was very wrong, the jug wasn't nearly as juggy as I was hoping it to be, and the E5 start is one of the most terrifying routes I've ever done!  :o

Nice one for putting it up, it's a fantastic route :)

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#3537 Re: significant repeats
February 24, 2013, 08:49:39 am
Nice one Will - like the way you have to lay one on for the last move - after the hard one ;)
Effort.

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#3538 Re: significant repeats
February 24, 2013, 09:03:35 am
Good effort stumpie.

BTW, could you zoom in a bit next time on the video, quite a bit of wasted space around the actual climb on that one.

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#3539 Re: significant repeats
February 24, 2013, 11:45:02 am
Mina is amazing and Will is nuts.

IS2

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#3540 Re: significant repeats
February 24, 2013, 01:56:34 pm
Like ... check Karin Magog's 8a.nu card. 3 x 8b redpoints ( she downgraded one 8b+ to 8b ) 5 x 8a+ rp.... 8 x8a .. 4 of them onsight.  Most since November last year.  Not bad for a girl !!! Brit.

Changed that for you. She's obviously a total wad.

Who's going to be the first brit female to do 8c then? And which route?
Like ... check Karin Magog's 8a.nu card. 3 x 8b redpoints ( she downgraded one 8b+ to 8b ) 5 x 8a+ rp.... 8 x8a .. 4 of them onsight.  Most since November last year.  Not bad for a girl !!! Brit.

Changed that for you. She's obviously a total wad.

Who's going to be the first brit female to do 8c then? And which route?

Yes, and not everyone records stuff on 8a.nu, but on that record, no1 female over 35 global, which is not bad going... probably needs to beef up her bouldering if she is going to do 8c this year....... more likely a British prodigy will appear and do it first...

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#3541 Re: significant repeats
February 24, 2013, 04:58:34 pm
Hazel, Emma Twyford, Shauna and Mina have all got the potential but it depends who wants to put the effort in and siege one. If Karins finds a pumpy wall climb you never know....

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#3542 Re: significant repeats
February 24, 2013, 06:29:06 pm
Mina is amazing and Will is nuts.

I'm sure that sentence could be amusingly re-arranged... :)

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#3543 Re: significant repeats
February 24, 2013, 08:53:12 pm
Nice one Will! I tried this on Tuesday, such a great move up......and across... And I agree about the start, desperate E5!

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#3544 Re: significant repeats
February 24, 2013, 09:23:41 pm
Cheers Andi.

How did you get on with it?, it took me a few goes to get it right, if it was a proper jug you were going to you could be a bit more wild, but because it's flat and quite far back you have to be very precise, absolutely brilliant to have a move like that so high up and in a relatively safe position. Great fun.

 :bounce:

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#3545 Re: significant repeats
February 25, 2013, 08:58:56 am

I thought it was going to be a straight forward dyno but I was very wrong, the jug wasn't nearly as juggy as I was hoping it to be, and the E5 start is one of the most terrifying routes I've ever done!  :o

 ::) Could be because you turned the mid height bulge too far left. This is part of my route Occam’s Raisin (E5 but with runner in crack on left). The usual Pseudonym way to turn the bulge is on the far right end of the feature with a mantel, which is easier and closer to the runner. There’s a video on youtube of someone doing Pseudonym this way.

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#3546 Re: significant repeats
February 25, 2013, 09:31:41 am
I think it's by far the most significant boulder ascent by a British woman. I hope there's more to come from Mina.

Just seen this and  :agree: Absolutely amazing.

willackers

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#3547 Re: significant repeats
February 25, 2013, 09:37:47 am

I thought it was going to be a straight forward dyno but I was very wrong, the jug wasn't nearly as juggy as I was hoping it to be, and the E5 start is one of the most terrifying routes I've ever done!  :o

 ::) Could be because you turned the mid height bulge too far left. This is part of my route Occam’s Raisin (E5 but with runner in crack on left). The usual Pseudonym way to turn the bulge is on the far right end of the feature with a mantel, which is easier and closer to the runner. There’s a video on youtube of someone doing Pseudonym this way.

Silly me, can I have an E8 FA?  :whistle:

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#3548 Re: significant repeats
February 25, 2013, 10:44:15 am
Can you bollocks :)

Nice work will, I should have put cash on you to pip Andi T to the post.

Does the guy standing at the top right teleport at 1:15?
« Last Edit: February 25, 2013, 10:50:51 am by SA Chris »

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#3549 Re: significant repeats
February 26, 2013, 09:58:33 am
Markus Pucher free soloed Cerro Torro last month, by way of the Ragni route.

 

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