UKBouldering.com

significant repeats (Read 3591771 times)

Jaspersharpe

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • 1B punter
  • Posts: 12344
  • Karma: +600/-20
  • Allez Oleeeve!
#3450 Re: significant repeats
January 29, 2013, 04:12:24 pm
Amazing effort. The route looks brilliant.*


*bouldery as fuck

Doylo

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 6690
  • Karma: +437/-7
#3451 Re: significant repeats
January 29, 2013, 04:15:24 pm
Something tells me Mutation is hard  :-\

Nibile

Online
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 7900
  • Karma: +732/-4
  • Part Animal Part Machine
    • TOTOLORE
#3452 Re: significant repeats
February 02, 2013, 10:43:16 am
"Il Maratoneta" 8b+, Manolo, 1987. Third repeat in 27 years... with a nice interview.
http://www.planetmountain.com/english/News/shownews1.lasso?l=2&keyid=40589#

shark

Offline
  • *****
  • Administrator
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 8325
  • Karma: +593/-17
  • insect overlord #1
#3453 Re: significant repeats
February 02, 2013, 04:39:55 pm
I see Steve Crowe (55) has recorded an 8a onsight at Chullila on 8a.nu  :2thumbsup:

TobyD

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 3690
  • Karma: +87/-3
  • Job offers gratefully accepted
#3454 Re: significant repeats
February 02, 2013, 09:15:35 pm
I see Steve Crowe (55) has recorded an 8a onsight at Chullila on 8a.nu  :2thumbsup:

Good effort Steve! Which route was it?

abarro81

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 4028
  • Karma: +311/-25
#3455 Re: significant repeats
February 05, 2013, 07:27:28 pm
Silvio Reffo has flashed mind control at Oliana giving it 8c (Moroni has retro marked it down to that on his scorecard too).
« Last Edit: February 05, 2013, 07:47:54 pm by abarro81 »

Nibile

Online
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 7900
  • Karma: +732/-4
  • Part Animal Part Machine
    • TOTOLORE
#3456 Re: significant repeats
February 06, 2013, 07:04:27 am
W ITALIA!!!

James Malloch

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 1464
  • Karma: +55/-1
#3457 Re: significant repeats
February 06, 2013, 09:10:47 am
Dave Mac has redpointed an 8c, Malsonando, in Costa Blanca following his injury...

http://www.ukclimbing.com/news/item.php?id=67795

cowboyhat

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 1472
  • Karma: +117/-5
#3458 Re: significant repeats
February 06, 2013, 12:33:40 pm
Having followed his injury woe, that is impressive.

Wil

Offline
  • ***
  • obsessive maniac
  • Posts: 312
  • Karma: +33/-0
    • Wil Treasure
#3459 Re: significant repeats
February 16, 2013, 08:00:20 pm
James Pearson knocked off The New (or Elder?) Statesman at Curbar today in some style. Is this the second ascent? He used a similar method to McClure, but seemed to get onto the arete quicker (maybe by virtue of being taller).

On a related note - why did the name of this route change?

Fiend

Offline
  • *
  • _
  • forum hero
  • Abominable sex magick practitioner and climbing heathen
  • Posts: 12732
  • Karma: +621/-66
  • Whut
#3460 Re: significant repeats
February 16, 2013, 08:55:11 pm
Good stuff  :2thumbsup:

Adam Lincoln

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 4864
  • Karma: +106/-30
    • Flickr Page, Vimeo Videos and Blog
#3461 Re: significant repeats
February 16, 2013, 09:06:55 pm
James Pearson knocked off The New (or Elder?) Statesman at Curbar today in some style. Is this the second ascent? He used a similar method to McClure, but seemed to get onto the arete quicker (maybe by virtue of being taller).

On a related note - why did the name of this route change?

Steve Dunning has done it.

slackline

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 18862
  • Karma: +633/-26
    • Sheffield Boulder
#3462 Re: significant repeats
February 17, 2013, 09:04:39 am
On a related note - why did the name of this route change?

Has it?  Thought New Statesman was at Ilkley, and Elder Statesman at Curbar (which climbs out of Elder Crack).  :shrug:

lukeyboy

Offline
  • ***
  • obsessive maniac
  • Posts: 391
  • Karma: +15/-0
#3463 Re: significant repeats
February 17, 2013, 06:48:13 pm
There is a route called The New Statesman at Ilkley, but I think Wil is right - the one which Steve Mac did at Curbar (which goes onto the arete from Elder Crack) was originally called The Elder Statesman but was then changed (to The New Statesman?).

Not sure why, as The Elder Statesman was quite an apt name. Would be interested if anyone else knows more...

Bonjoy

Offline
  • *****
  • Global Moderator
  • forum hero
  • Leafy gent
  • Posts: 9779
  • Karma: +537/-8
#3464 Re: significant repeats
February 17, 2013, 07:05:11 pm
I've never heard of this name change. Who/what/where is this idea from?

Wil

Offline
  • ***
  • obsessive maniac
  • Posts: 312
  • Karma: +33/-0
    • Wil Treasure
#3465 Re: significant repeats
February 17, 2013, 07:47:45 pm
There's a note in eastern grit to that effect. I haven't got the definitive guide to know what that says.

cofe

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 5775
  • Karma: +186/-5

duncan

Offline
  • *****
  • Global Moderator
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 2705
  • Karma: +310/-2
#3467 Re: significant repeats
February 17, 2013, 08:56:14 pm
http://www.rockfax.com/databases/r.php?i=22410

Typo?

It's Elder Statesman in the proper guide.

I watched Steve Dunning do the second ascent.  Connies were impressively miserable, windy and showery, I was having difficulty removing hands from pockets to attempt something 17 grades easier.  He cheated his way up Elder Crack though, face-climbing around it and never once getting in and grovelling in the approved sequence.

Stubbs

  • Guest
#3468 Re: significant repeats
February 17, 2013, 09:04:05 pm

I watched Steve Dunning do the second ascent. 

Impressive bit of footage from before HD was a thing ;)


remus

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 2225
  • Karma: +92/-1
#3469 Re: significant repeats
February 19, 2013, 08:53:23 pm
jan hojer has a good day in ticino: http://www.ukclimbing.com/news/item.php?id=67842

Perhaps more accurately a 'significant quantity of repeats'.

andy_e

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 8771
  • Karma: +271/-42
#3470 Re: significant repeats
February 19, 2013, 09:07:56 pm
Crivens!

slackline

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 18862
  • Karma: +633/-26
    • Sheffield Boulder
#3471 Re: significant repeats
February 19, 2013, 11:40:02 pm
 :o :bow: :clap2:

SA Chris

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 28002
  • Karma: +596/-11
    • http://groups.msn.com/ChrisClix
#3472 Re: significant repeats
February 20, 2013, 08:30:03 am
Quote
But every few hundred millennia, evolution leaps forward.

finbarrr

Offline
  • ***
  • obsessive maniac
  • Posts: 328
  • Karma: +10/-2
#3473 Re: significant repeats
February 20, 2013, 08:45:55 am
i had the pleasure of seeing Jan Hojer climb on a rest day in bleau last year.
he couldn't help himself, constantly climbing stuff that his friends were trying, on his sneakers.
just up to 7A-B, sometimes campussing for fun.

tim palmer

Offline
  • ****
  • forum abuser
  • Posts: 690
  • Karma: +30/-0
#3474 Re: significant repeats
February 20, 2013, 09:50:57 am
i had the pleasure of seeing Jan Hojer climb on a rest day in bleau last year.
he couldn't help himself, constantly climbing stuff that his friends were trying, on his sneakers.
just up to 7A-B, sometimes campussing for fun.
Yeah climbed with him (very breifly) in swizzy this winter, he seemed a very nice guy

 

SimplePortal 2.3.7 © 2008-2022, SimplePortal