significant repeats (Read 4331858 times)

shark · July 16, 2012, 11:51:00 pm

http://www.dpmclimbing.com/articles/view/brooke-raboutou-welcome-tijuana-514b

Brooke Raboutou has done Welcome to Tijuana at Rodellar.

8c at 11.

dobbin · July 17, 2012, 08:48:44 am

strong parents!

Stu Littlefair · July 17, 2012, 11:28:29 am

Well, that's my excuse gone then

abarro81 · July 17, 2012, 11:31:48 am

By the sounds of your fb status you're 'fatty' excuse should still stand

cheque · July 17, 2012, 11:46:54 am

What a little beast!

I'm assuming she did it without Andrada strapped to her back...

BR looks to be in the lead to be the first child to do a first ascent that adults can't repeat. I reckon 'First adult ascent' will be a part of the sport climbing lexicon before too long.

Personally I'm thinking of sacking off the training to work on a time machine...

Paul B · July 17, 2012, 02:41:26 pm

Quote from: dobbin on July 17, 2012, 08:48:44 am

strong parents!

there's a video of her redpointing the same route as her Mum (same one with Nina Caprez on Ultimate Demance); its incredible to watch.

fried · July 17, 2012, 03:06:04 pm

I'm just waiting for the 'she's much lighter than an adult and her hands are so small' excuse and that we really need a new grading system...

Children better at climbing than adults shocker.

Jaspersharpe · July 17, 2012, 04:59:15 pm

Awesome. No excuses about height / weight / reach etc anyway as her dad is only about an inch taller than her and he was quite good.

shark · July 17, 2012, 05:34:19 pm

Quote from: cheque on July 17, 2012, 11:46:54 am

BR looks to be in the lead to be the first child to do a first ascent that adults can't repeat. I reckon 'First adult ascent' will be a part of the sport climbing lexicon before too long.

$:-\$

I can't picture a route only being climbable as a child but then became impossible for them by the time they became an adult. Ondra continued to push his grade.

dave · July 17, 2012, 05:57:14 pm

Something with tiny finger slots/pockets/crimps?

Johnny Brown · July 17, 2012, 05:59:42 pm

Quote

I can't picture a route only being climbable as a child

I can, though whether they exist or will be realised is another matter. There's already a roof crack in the states that's women only isn't there?

I'm confident there are enough factors in climbing to stop it becoming like women's gymnastics though, where you peak before puberty...

cheque · July 17, 2012, 06:40:40 pm

Quote from: shark on July 17, 2012, 05:34:19 pm

I can't picture a route only being climbable as a child but then became impossible for them by the time they became an adult.

Yeah... I didn't think the part of the kid themselves growing up through! It seems unlikely to me, too. I was thinking more along the lines of there being periods in the future where an elite kid has done a new route that no adults have repeated.

Bonjoy · July 18, 2012, 08:27:25 am

Quote from: Johnny Brown on July 17, 2012, 05:59:42 pm

Quote
I can't picture a route only being climbable as a child

I can, though whether they exist or will be realised is another matter. There's already a roof crack in the states that's women only isn't there?

Passport to Insanity in Australia was one of these for quite a few years. Think it got an FMA eventually.

Ged · July 18, 2012, 08:34:52 am

For years didn't people say that the only reason Lynn Hill managed to free the Nose is because she had small fingers. Think this was mainly coming from some well know males who were getting shut down on the Great Roof and Changing Corners. Then Tommy Caldwell did it and said it's not actually very finger size dependent, you've just got to be really good. Go Lynn.

dobbin · July 18, 2012, 08:40:28 am

Didn't she once have a go on a UKB regular as well?

Robsons · July 18, 2012, 11:36:58 am

Quality news about BR!!! She's been going from strength to strength recently...looking forward to her future!

lukeyboy · July 18, 2012, 12:44:10 pm

Quote from: dobbin on July 18, 2012, 08:40:28 am

Didn't she once have a go on a UKB regular as well?

I hope we're not still talking about BR...

dobbin · July 18, 2012, 01:12:20 pm

Your hope is not in vain

Palomides · July 23, 2012, 11:21:21 am

Not sure if this is significant or not, but Sylvain Millet repeated Flight of Ideas at Stanage last spring, according to the Peak article in this mag : http://www.escalademag.com/escalademag-n%C2%B051

There's a photo here : http://www.escalademag.com/galerie-peak-district

Mind you, I think he might be on the wrong side of the arete in that picture??

Fiend · July 23, 2012, 11:40:27 am

He is indeed, the left side is a new P-Widdy E6 6c, done a year or two ago.

Neil F · July 23, 2012, 12:34:26 pm

Quote from: Palomides on July 23, 2012, 11:21:21 am

There's a photo here : http://www.escalademag.com/galerie-peak-district

Nice photo!

RichK · July 23, 2012, 02:55:14 pm

Quote from: dobbin on July 18, 2012, 08:40:28 am

Didn't she once have a go on a UKB regular as well?

.....I'd imagine he would be "reticent" on the matter.

slackline · July 25, 2012, 06:51:53 am

Mayan Smith-Gobat, together with David Falt, has made the third free ascent of Donnafugata on Torre Trieste, Civetta, Dolomites. 750m, 8a ground-up, in a 32 hour single push with no bivy gear.

grimer · July 25, 2012, 07:42:11 am

Nice story that one Slackers

tim palmer · August 05, 2012, 02:59:12 pm

Keen roof had another ascent yesterday from Phil Rose after he had snatched defeat from the jaws of victory on several previous sessions

significant repeats (Read 4331858 times)

dave