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significant repeats (Read 4233975 times)

saltbeef

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#2825 Re: significant repeats
January 06, 2012, 11:41:42 pm
good effort leesa. As Ed said "its not his style" but does hanging off monos and tilting ones body constitute a style.
anyway 8a.nu tells me that Mina has done big golden. Amazing effort! is this the first ascent of any of the big 4 by a british female?

Nibile

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#2826 Re: significant repeats
January 08, 2012, 07:21:51 pm
Nacho Sanchez flashed 8b. on 8a.nu
beast.

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#2827 Re: significant repeats
January 09, 2012, 08:41:28 am

SA Chris

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#2828 Re: significant repeats
January 09, 2012, 09:10:40 am
Remarkable. He walks it.

Muenchener

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#2829 Re: significant repeats
January 09, 2012, 11:31:50 am
DFBWG Spotting too

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#2830 Re: significant repeats
January 09, 2012, 12:39:33 pm
Very cool. Looks good for a cavey ss style problem and not just straight pulling, looks easy to muff!

Nibile

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#2831 Re: significant repeats
January 09, 2012, 01:13:53 pm
unless you totally dominate it.

dobbin

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#2832 Re: significant repeats
January 09, 2012, 01:23:40 pm
He's changed. His feet are like totally on the rock and everything.

And there's not a chorizo in sight.

Jaspersharpe

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#2833 Re: significant repeats
January 09, 2012, 01:35:09 pm
When Nacho first came to The Works I climbed with him a fair bit on the 30 degree board. He was only a little bit stronger than me. Now he flashes 8B and crushes 8Cs and I'm permanatly injured and can only envisage climbing about 6B.

 :boohoo: :boohoo: :boohoo:

Seriously, that's very impressive.  :2thumbsup:

Monolith

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#2834 Re: significant repeats
January 09, 2012, 02:13:26 pm
good effort leesa. As Ed said "its not his style" but does hanging off monos and tilting ones body constitute a style.

This is significant news!!! What do I care if Ondra climbs another 50c?

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#2835 Re: significant repeats
January 10, 2012, 04:07:05 pm
Has it been picked up that Stewart Watson did the The Ace between Christmas and NY?

http://stewartwatsonclimbing.blogspot.com/

Good effort - still can't have had that many ascents with folk capable living a lot closer...

I witnessed this.

I don't know Stewart and in the current climate of this thread I couldn't be bothered to think about whether it might be significant or risk recieving a boring email about ruining the spirit of climbing.

Anyway he's a sponsored euro hero so done the decent thing and reported it himself. Nice one.

saltbeef

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#2836 Re: significant repeats
January 10, 2012, 06:39:37 pm
I couldn't be bothered to think about whether it might be significant or risk recieving a boring email about ruining the spirit of climbing.

Dear Sir/Madam
I fear that it is an attitude like this that is ruining the adventure aspect of climbing. Any form of training or self publicity is a sincere threat to the facets of climbing that have elevated it above a mere sport. Indeed is this even news? It is merely a few foot above the floor, as has been said before "these gritstone climbs are not a very important part of climbing". This is clearly not or never will be the Indian face. I dare say that it would have Don Whillans turning in his grave.
yours
concerned of milton keynes

ps Which £400 gore tex jacket would be most appropriate for walking from the carpark into my office?

Ben Read

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#2837 Re: significant repeats
January 15, 2012, 01:26:54 pm
17 year old Barnaby Ventham repeated Don't Pierdol 8A+ at High Rocks yesterday. Done in less than 10 attempts and on his first go of the second session working the problem!
Bad quality video of the ascent here:

Fiend

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#2838 Re: significant repeats
January 15, 2012, 02:36:11 pm
That doesn't look shit! Nice.

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#2839 Re: significant repeats
January 15, 2012, 06:03:17 pm
effort, yoof wad

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#2840 Re: significant repeats
January 15, 2012, 09:00:43 pm
mcpage did high fidelity yesterday, when he should have been training! people have no discipline anymore

on nacho's 8b flash in targa, little scott did the 8a stand from the 2 undercuts in the roof, one of which nacho couldn't be bothered with. scott's no slouch in roofs either so today i heard how hard this 8b actually is. the result was about 8b, just in case people were thinking it looked ok

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#2841 Re: significant repeats
January 15, 2012, 09:57:22 pm
Is that the first ground up of High Fidelity then?

b3n99

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#2842 Re: significant repeats
January 15, 2012, 10:40:12 pm
Good effort from Barnaby, cruised! He's one strong 17 year old!!

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#2843 Re: significant repeats
January 16, 2012, 10:21:21 am
17 year old Barnaby Ventham repeated Don't Pierdol 8A+ at High Rocks yesterday. Done in less than 10 attempts and on his first go of the second session working the problem!

Ben,

Is Barnaby still convinced that his problem Mega Ten is 7C+?

Also, when are you back in South Wales?  Let me know if you want some company.

Kev

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#2844 Re: significant repeats
January 16, 2012, 10:58:22 am
Hi Kev,

I think Barnaby was a bit reluctant to grade Mega Ten too high as at the time he hadnt really climbed many Font 8's. Personally I think its got to be at least 8a, especially considering it took him so long and he is pretty much walking up 8a+'s recently!

Might be coming over to South Wales this weekend, I will send yo a PM if we do!

Cheers

Ben!

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#2845 Re: significant repeats
January 16, 2012, 08:31:33 pm
Is that the first ground up of High Fidelity then?

no idea, no idea if he ground upped it. he won't tell me, he says i'll put it on the net

Nick B

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#2846 Re: significant repeats
January 17, 2012, 04:36:48 pm
Shauna did Zoo York today

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#2847 Re: significant repeats
January 17, 2012, 04:48:44 pm
Effort Shauna, showing my ignorance here but how many ladies have bouldered 8a or above on the grit?

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#2848 Re: significant repeats
January 17, 2012, 04:51:22 pm
Effort Shauna, showing my ignorance here but how many ladies have bouldered 8a or above on the grit?

Think its none. Shauna = Beastess

Jaspersharpe

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#2849 Re: significant repeats
January 17, 2012, 05:07:44 pm
Awesome.

 

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