UKBouldering.com

significant repeats (Read 4974845 times)

Doylo

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 6694
  • Karma: +442/-7
#2700 Re: significant repeats
December 03, 2011, 11:11:26 am
Pretty sure Moon wasn't on a top rope and he did nearly flash it - fell off the easier (bottom?) bit then got it 2nd go. Very impressive for 1991(?) if it is font 8a.
You're not wrong, he was pretty handy wasn't he

Jim

Offline
  • *****
  • Trusted Users
  • forum hero
  • Mostly Injured
  • Posts: 8629
  • Karma: +234/-18
  • Pregnant Horse
    • Bouldering POI's for tomtom
#2701 Re: significant repeats
December 03, 2011, 04:49:45 pm

Teaboy

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 1203
  • Karma: +73/-2
#2702 Re: significant repeats
December 03, 2011, 08:23:23 pm
I remember Power of Climbing having pictures of someone on Screaming Dream but I can't remember if it was Malcolm Taylor or Tony Ryan? Did either if them do it? Didn't realise Sean Myles had done it. Regardless, why hasn't this route had more attention?

cheque

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 3466
  • Karma: +530/-2
    • Cheque Pictures
#2703 Re: significant repeats
December 03, 2011, 09:09:18 pm
It's Malcolm Taylor. He appears to be doing the last moves on lead but the weird grid thing in the back only has Moon, Leach and Myles down as having done it. It also reckons 8b as a route grade.

I had to check all this just now, by the way. I had no idea how many repeats it had had until I saw this thread.

Fiend

Offline
  • *
  • _
  • forum hero
  • Abominable sex magick practitioner and climbing heathen
  • Posts: 13681
  • Karma: +694/-68
  • Whut
#2704 Re: significant repeats
December 03, 2011, 09:16:06 pm
Nice one. I remember that photo and reading about the route, hardcore stuff. How hard can it be to layback a 6m crack?? ;)

fatboySlimfast

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 1557
  • Karma: +49/-1
#2705 Re: significant repeats
December 04, 2011, 08:29:08 am
to my knowldege dont think malcolm taylor actually did it

yorkshireman

Offline
  • ***
  • obsessive maniac
  • Posts: 386
  • Karma: +14/-8
  • dont knock the rock if you're shaky at the grade
#2706 Re: significant repeats
December 05, 2011, 01:33:48 am
according to facialbook nalle hukkataival has just done esperanza-assuming thats the V14 in hueco.

Ethan

Offline
  • ***
  • obsessive maniac
  • Posts: 415
  • Karma: +16/-1
#2707 Re: significant repeats
December 06, 2011, 10:30:06 pm
Ondra has repeated Christian Core's 8C Gioia, giving it 8C+.

leeroy

Offline
  • ****
  • forum abuser
  • Posts: 507
  • Karma: +81/-0
#2708 Re: significant repeats
December 06, 2011, 10:42:48 pm
 :jaw: first 8c+ in the world then, maybe. psyched for christian, seemed like a genuinely nice character in the original goia vid.

Duma

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 5957
  • Karma: +244/-5
#2709 Re: significant repeats
December 06, 2011, 10:46:22 pm
Core on it:


leeroy

Offline
  • ****
  • forum abuser
  • Posts: 507
  • Karma: +81/-0
#2710 Re: significant repeats
December 06, 2011, 10:51:16 pm

slackline

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 18863
  • Karma: +633/-26
    • Sheffield Boulder
#2711 Re: significant repeats
December 07, 2011, 10:12:04 am
http://www.ukclimbing.com/videos/play.php?i=605

another longer version here.

If you go to iClimb where that video is from then you can download it in HD for free.

(Ondras repeat also noted in the Ondrawad thread).

jwi

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 4363
  • Karma: +339/-1
  • Distorting facts posted on instagram
    • On Steep Ground
#2712 Re: significant repeats
December 08, 2011, 09:59:18 am
Nalle Hukkataival flashed Crown of Aragon, becoming the fourth(?) 5-8th to flash an 8b
« Last Edit: December 08, 2011, 10:07:40 am by jwi »

Tommy G

Offline
  • *
  • regular
  • Posts: 36
  • Karma: +2/-0
#2713 Re: significant repeats
December 08, 2011, 11:54:21 am
Here is a vid from DPM of him on the former mentioned V14

Strong boy

http://www.dpmclimbing.com/climbing-videos/watch/nalle-hukkatiaval-esperanza-v14

 :)

Johnny Brown

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 11575
  • Karma: +719/-22
#2714 Re: significant repeats
December 08, 2011, 02:48:53 pm
According to Crouch on the karma stats, Will Atkinson has done Merveille. Great line, very impressive. First british ascent?

Paul B

Offline
  • *****
  • Global Moderator
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 9780
  • Karma: +269/-4
#2715 Re: significant repeats
December 08, 2011, 02:54:30 pm
According to Crouch on the karma stats, Will Atkinson has done Merveille. Great line, very impressive. First british ascent?

Neds done it too looking at the Wildcountry FB page...

SA Chris

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 29579
  • Karma: +643/-12
    • http://groups.msn.com/ChrisClix
#2716 Re: significant repeats
December 08, 2011, 02:57:39 pm
According to Crouch on the karma stats, Will Atkinson has done Merveille. Great line, very impressive.

In a single session!

Good going willackers!

Ethan

Offline
  • ***
  • obsessive maniac
  • Posts: 415
  • Karma: +16/-1
#2717 Re: significant repeats
December 08, 2011, 03:01:59 pm
8c+ for Alizée Dufraisse! In french but... http://www.grimper.com/News/6810-8c-pour-alizee-dufraisse.html

Adam Lincoln

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 4978
  • Karma: +111/-30
    • Flickr Page, Vimeo Videos and Blog
#2718 Re: significant repeats
December 09, 2011, 08:30:27 pm
Nalle Hukkataival flashed Crown of Aragon, becoming the fourth(?) 5-8th to flash an 8b


Fiend

Offline
  • *
  • _
  • forum hero
  • Abominable sex magick practitioner and climbing heathen
  • Posts: 13681
  • Karma: +694/-68
  • Whut
#2719 Re: significant repeats
December 10, 2011, 09:49:48 am
People will love the american commentary on that :D

I love the foot sketching. Good stuff.

dontfollowme

Offline
  • ****
  • Trusted Users
  • junky
  • Posts: 955
  • Karma: +13/-0
#2720 Re: significant repeats
December 10, 2011, 09:59:53 am
People will love the american commentary on that :D

I love the foot sketching. Good stuff.

I think this set the bar for america commentary:

Tight!

Clart

Offline
  • ***
  • obsessive maniac
  • Posts: 417
  • Karma: +31/-2
  • Safe as f*ck
#2721 Re: significant repeats
December 10, 2011, 02:04:42 pm
People will love the american commentary on that :D

I love the foot sketching. Good stuff.

I think this set the bar for america commentary:

Tight!

Yeh, that was painful, do you suppose these people continue with the running commentary when on the job?

On a more serious note, do you suppose the over egged support is to try and direct some of the climber's success onto themselves, to over compensate for their secret desire for the climber to fail or genuine, if massively irritating, enthusiasm?

Oldmanmatt

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • At this rate, I probably won’t last the week.
  • Posts: 7337
  • Karma: +385/-17
  • Largely broken. Obsolete spares and scrap only.
    • The Boulder Bunker climbing centre
#2722 Re: significant repeats
December 10, 2011, 06:09:29 pm
People will love the american commentary on that :D

I love the foot sketching. Good stuff.

I think this set the bar for america commentary:

Tight!

Yeh, that was painful, do you suppose these people continue with the running commentary when on the job?

On a more serious note, do you suppose the over egged support is to try and direct some of the climber's success onto themselves, to over compensate for their secret desire for the climber to fail or genuine, if massively irritating, enthusiasm?

Nah, they're just American.

(Though possibly with previous, doing voice-overs in the Pr0n industry).

Doylo

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 6694
  • Karma: +442/-7
#2723 Re: significant repeats
December 10, 2011, 06:45:02 pm
Nalle Hukkataival flashed Crown of Aragon, becoming the fourth(?) 5-8th to flash an 8b



I hope he hadn't done Wheaties before!

Tommy G

Offline
  • *
  • regular
  • Posts: 36
  • Karma: +2/-0
#2724 Re: significant repeats
December 14, 2011, 02:05:40 pm
Interesting point Doylo!

Would it not be consider a flash of the "Crown of" if he had?
He has still technically completed the line in question first go though.

It could be the same argument for link up's in general.
If someone had done "Rumble in the Jungle" at the Cornice previous but then later on did "Monstrosity" bottom to top on their first attempt, would be considered an flash of the route?

 :-\

 

SimplePortal 2.3.7 © 2008-2024, SimplePortal