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significant repeats (Read 4701733 times)

Krank

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#1900 Re: significant repeats
March 01, 2011, 10:11:14 pm
yeah, but Malc makes everything look piss.

Falling Down

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#1901 Re: significant repeats
March 02, 2011, 01:56:42 pm
Googled this problem and saw this. Malc makes it look piss  :ohmy:
http://www.planetfear.com/news/Micky_Page_Monk_Life_8b_Kyloe_2616.html

He does look beastly strong in the vid  :bow:

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#1902 Re: significant repeats
March 02, 2011, 03:54:52 pm
My experience of climbing with Malc was that he either made (most) things look very easy or he fell off. Never sketched his way up stuff by the skin of his teeth. He does indeed look immensely strong in the Monk Life video but then again he should do, because he is.
 8)

Paul B

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#1903 Re: significant repeats
March 02, 2011, 04:16:54 pm
is that the second time you've name dropped 'Malc' into a thread in a week?  :whistle:

tomtom

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#1904 Re: significant repeats
March 02, 2011, 04:19:18 pm
is that the second time you've name dropped 'Malc' into a thread in a week?  :whistle:

:) Busted

slackline

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#1905 Re: significant repeats
March 02, 2011, 04:19:36 pm
He's just copying lagers.

Jaspersharpe

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#1906 Re: significant repeats
March 02, 2011, 04:24:34 pm
As I said to Jerry when he came round to try the problems Malc and I had set on mine and Smythe's board (a few days after Ben had been round) and which had been used for the competition where Gresham beat Nic in the final, it's not name dropping when you were mates.

EDIT - I should punter you for confusing me with lagers!

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#1907 Re: significant repeats
March 02, 2011, 04:27:48 pm
is that the second time you've name dropped 'Malc' into a thread in a week?  :whistle:

:) Busted

Nope!



 ;D

S Smith

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#1908 Re: significant repeats
March 02, 2011, 04:49:19 pm
Amazing Nigel  :great:

My university club had him in to give us a coaching session pretty soon after I began climbing.  Was blown away by how strong he was...

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#1909 Re: significant repeats
March 07, 2011, 10:59:19 am
Pete Robins did the second ascent of Mr Katz's Reality E8 7a at Craig Nant y Fedw yesterday.

http://news.v12outdoor.com/2011/03/07/robins-grabs-second-ascent-of-reality-e8-7a/

markwellin

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#1910 Re: significant repeats
March 08, 2011, 02:39:32 pm
Paulrobison has just sent a story of two worlds

Mike Tyson

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#1911 Re: significant repeats
March 09, 2011, 09:25:24 pm
Not sure if this was reported earlier in the year or not, strong effort by both though.

http://www.ukclimbing.com/news/item.php?id=60835

Teaboy

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#1912 Re: significant repeats
March 09, 2011, 10:12:42 pm
 :sorry: nothing to see, reported elsewhere

Nibile

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#1913 Re: significant repeats
March 12, 2011, 05:24:15 pm
after Ulysses the other day, Michele Caminati did The Ace today!!!
shame I wasn't there to watch!!!

butters

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#1914 Re: significant repeats
March 12, 2011, 07:47:53 pm
after Ulysses the other day, Michele Caminati did The Ace today!!!
shame I wasn't there to watch!!!

The boy done well - please pass on my congratulations. Guessing he hasn't done Angel's Share yet?

hairich

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#1915 Re: significant repeats
March 12, 2011, 09:57:51 pm
nice one caminati

rjtrials

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#1916 Re: significant repeats
March 13, 2011, 02:07:50 am
Carlo Traversi repeated The Game and surprisingly downgrades it to 8C.  :wank:

http://www.b3bouldering.com/2011/03/13/carlo-traversi-climbs-the-game/


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#1917 Re: significant repeats
March 13, 2011, 02:27:16 am
has any Daniel wood first ascent kept it original grade yet?nalle said the exfoliator was 8a+ not 8b+,jade is close to going to 8b/8b+,many have questioned that desperenza could be 8c and now the game gets down graded-either the guy is as bad as me at grading or there's a bit of a vendetta going on.

ferret

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#1918 Re: significant repeats
March 13, 2011, 03:25:35 am
has any Daniel wood first ascent kept it original grade yet?nalle said the exfoliator was 8a+ not 8b+,jade is close to going to 8b/8b+,many have questioned that desperenza could be 8c and now the game gets down graded-either the guy is as bad as me at grading or there's a bit of a vendetta going on.

i think its probably a combination of a couple of things;

firstly hes pretty short, certainly shorter than other guys operating at these levels. you can see in videos how often hes doing moves at max extension, and holding alot of narly lookin swings, maybe this makes things a little harder for him?

secondly the kids just unbeleivably strong and perhaps (like fred) is not doing things the easiest way just because hes so strong he doesnt have to. look at this guys performance in the last years or so, its unbeleivable.

robertostallioni

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#1919 Re: significant repeats
March 13, 2011, 07:46:46 am
Re The Game
Carlo's take :-

" All in all, our beta was very, very similar. Only minor tweaks to fit my style better.He continues "The Game is by far the hardest thing that I've ever climbed. Huge props to Daniel for having the vision for the first ascent. Trust me, I can't say enough good things about that kid. Always positive, always nice, and by far the strongest human on rock. Thanks for making The Game a reality for the rest of us Daniel!
As for the grade, who knows? I really have no clue. This boulder fits my style very well. It could be 8C+. It could be 8C. I've never climbed either grade, so I can't compare. I have climbed a few 8B+'s and I know that it felt substantially harder than those, so being rational, 8C seems appropriate to me. Time will tell. This is definitely not meant to reflect badly on Daniel's decision of giving it 8C+. He has far more experience than me and who knows, down the road, he might be more correct about the grade than me. The important thing is that we have both given our honest opinions based on our prior experiences and that's all that should be expected."


dave

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#1920 Re: significant repeats
March 13, 2011, 08:07:26 am
Shouldn't be surprising, boulder problems at the bleeding edge almost always get downgraded.

Krank

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#1921 Re: significant repeats
March 13, 2011, 08:30:57 am
a painfull start, but there you go


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#1922 Re: significant repeats
March 13, 2011, 09:44:39 am
Be interesting to see if lucid dreaming retains its grade or if they got a bit ahead of themselves with 8c+.

Krank

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#1923 Re: significant repeats
March 13, 2011, 10:05:46 am
wasnt there a brit over there getting close to LD before peg leg got it, or am thinking about something else  :-\

Adam Lincoln

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#1924 Re: significant repeats
March 13, 2011, 10:16:26 am
wasnt there a brit over there getting close to LD before peg leg got it, or am thinking about something else  :-\

Matt Birch.

 

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