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significant repeats (Read 3389451 times)

Krank

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#1925 Re: significant repeats
March 13, 2011, 10:05:46 am
wasnt there a brit over there getting close to LD before peg leg got it, or am thinking about something else  :-\

Adam Lincoln

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#1926 Re: significant repeats
March 13, 2011, 10:16:26 am
wasnt there a brit over there getting close to LD before peg leg got it, or am thinking about something else  :-\

Matt Birch.

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#1927 Re: significant repeats
March 13, 2011, 10:20:31 am
dont suppose you know what he thought?

Adam Lincoln

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#1928 Re: significant repeats
March 13, 2011, 10:23:13 am
dont suppose you know what he thought?

Can't comment on his thoughts but he went back this spring to finish it off, and by all accounts would have done it but injured his finger.

Ru

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#1929 Re: significant repeats
March 13, 2011, 11:06:24 am
Rumour has it that Matt thought Lucid Dreaming would be a solid 8B+. Plus, he was probably using board rules - no thumbs.

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#1930 Re: significant repeats
March 13, 2011, 11:11:29 am
I hope the superlatives that he used to describe DW after he downgraded his pride and joy helped soften the blow a bit! birch tried LD quite a bit when it was still a project.any money he wouldnt have given it  8c+.

Doylo

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#1931 Re: significant repeats
March 13, 2011, 11:17:20 am
Rumour has it that Matt thought Lucid Dreaming would be a solid 8B+. Plus, he was probably using board rules - no thumbs.
       
There you go 2 different grading systems at work.also  illustrated by birch giving the swarm 8b before the whole world took 8b+ for it.seems to be going back down now.                                                               

ducko

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#1932 Re: significant repeats
March 13, 2011, 05:00:25 pm
good effort on the game, clearly one of the hardest climbs out there, i guess its hard too accurately grade a route when your climbing at such a high level!
see what happens with paul r's LD

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#1933 Re: significant repeats
March 14, 2011, 11:06:16 am
Like dave said, things always take a while to settle down. People need to remember that there is plenty of room within one grade but also that there's no shame in getting a grade wrong one way or another. After all, it's all subjective anyway.

Duma

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#1934 Re: significant repeats
March 14, 2011, 11:16:21 am
see what happens with paul r's LD
I got the impression from his comments about reassesing some of his previous ascents after repeating "the story of two worlds" that  he might do it himself.
Edit to add the quote:
"2nd Asc. Long and very sustained. Unsure of how many days it took but for me I think this boulder stands at the upper echelon of the 8C grade. I plan to make amendments to prior climbs as this truly is "the new standard" as dave mentioned before. A dream come true! What a huge relief! On to the projects!!"

jarod

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#1935 Re: significant repeats
March 14, 2011, 02:02:41 pm
after Ulysses the other day, Michele Caminati did The Ace today!!!
shame I wasn't there to watch!!!

I'm proud to say that I was there! :clap2: :clap2: :clap2:

( ciao Lore, prima o poi ci beccheremo  ;) )


Nibile

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#1936 Re: significant repeats
March 15, 2011, 07:20:55 am
jarod! your Italian is perfect! who's your teacher? saluta i Bastardacci del gam! speriamo di vederci presto! :-)

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#1937 Re: significant repeats
March 15, 2011, 10:39:41 am
Not sure if it counts as a significant repeat but Mickey Page did Monk Life 15 times in one afternoon  :bow:. Just awesome really. Wonderful photos from Mark Savage on his blog http://www.marksavagephotography.blogspot.com/ 

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#1938 Re: significant repeats
March 15, 2011, 10:52:04 am
Monster.

Rocksteady

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#1939 Re: significant repeats
March 15, 2011, 10:59:08 am
15 laps of Monk Life!!!  :strongbench: :clap2: :bow:

With that kind of strength + endurance I'd have thought he could tick off some F9as and beyond. If he's interested.

Massive respect.

SA Chris

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#1940 Re: significant repeats
March 15, 2011, 11:49:17 am
Unbefrikkinlieveable.

GCW

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#1941 Re: significant repeats
March 15, 2011, 11:54:09 am
When 8c is no longer hard, and 8b+ is approaching a rest.

Nibile

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#1942 Re: significant repeats
March 15, 2011, 12:14:24 pm
holy fucking shit.
the next level is here.

slackline

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#1943 Re: significant repeats
March 15, 2011, 12:26:35 pm
holy fucking shit.
the next level is here.

Ascents are only valid with 15 repeats and photographs. :P

Doylo

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#1944 Re: significant repeats
March 15, 2011, 12:55:17 pm
Oh my word! I think everyone on UKB should donate 20 quid to a 'mickey page round the world crushathon fund'.would be great to see a brit tearing up the worlds hardest problems'  :goodidea:

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#1945 Re: significant repeats
March 15, 2011, 01:25:58 pm
Oh my word! I think everyone on UKB should donate 20 quid to a 'mickey page round the world crushathon fund'.would be great to see a brit tearing up the worlds hardest problems'  :goodidea:
  :agree: i can see it now:

NEWS
Mickey Page has just crushed 'blah blah' blah, blah blah de blah......

<Nice picy of crush>


Mickey is sponsored by Doylo, Chummer, Nodder, CJD, Slack---line, Nimble, Rocksteady, Jaspersharp...etc

ducko

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#1946 Re: significant repeats
March 15, 2011, 01:30:14 pm
ive never seen this line but looks/sounds hard impressive

SA Chris

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#1947 Re: significant repeats
March 15, 2011, 01:30:56 pm
Just say - sponsored by UKB. He has a paypal account and we drop him a couple of quid any time he delivers a fresh helping of psyche.

or even SYKE!

rodma

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#1948 Re: significant repeats
March 15, 2011, 01:34:44 pm
Oh my word! I think everyone on UKB should donate 20 quid to a 'mickey page round the world crushathon fund'.would be great to see a brit tearing up the worlds hardest problems'  :goodidea:
  :agree: i can see it now:

NEWS
Mickey Page has just crushed 'blah blah' blah, blah blah de blah......

<Nice picy of crush>


Mickey is sponsored by Doylo, Chummer, Nodder, CJD, Slack---line, Nimble, Rocksteady, Jaspersharp...etc


Could maybe supply him with a variety of rubber masks/wigs/stick-on-tats etc so that we could get "evidence" of each sponsor doing the problem.

Seriously though, I am totally and utterly in awe.  :bow:

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#1949 Re: significant repeats
March 15, 2011, 11:43:11 pm
Oh my word! I think everyone on UKB should donate 20 quid to a 'mickey page round the world crushathon fund'.would be great to see a brit tearing up the worlds hardest problems'  :goodidea:

Or maybe just point him in the direction of a few problems waiting to see repeats in the south lakes, I'm sure someone knows the way  ;)



Keep on crushing.

 

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