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significant repeats (Read 4234021 times)

Jaspersharpe

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#1800 Re: significant repeats
January 19, 2011, 12:47:22 pm
Excellent.

Nice one Tom!  :thumbsup:

ding dong

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#1801 Re: significant repeats
January 19, 2011, 01:24:31 pm
well done Tom!! whats next

hairich

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#1802 Re: significant repeats
January 19, 2011, 10:16:14 pm
is 9a+ the hardest done by a brit now?

dan_carroll

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#1803 Re: significant repeats
January 19, 2011, 11:17:52 pm
unless Overshadow is 9b as Ondra said it might be, then yeah.

Nibile

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#1804 Re: significant repeats
January 20, 2011, 01:15:06 pm
"fine machines" is great.

Jaspersharpe

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T_B

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#1806 Re: significant repeats
January 20, 2011, 04:37:54 pm
Bloody hell, the boy can write too:

Well, climbing is so hard to determine what you did differently, what let you snake your way up when every other time you got spanked and shut down. Is it physical? Some of it must be. Is it mental? Definately, when I was actually climbing the route I felt more relaxed than ever before, I felt confident and without any nerves of falling or about doing the route. The demons that so frequently dash all redpoint hopes just weren't there. Maybe for me a once in a year moment of mental focus like this is how Ondra or Sharma rock up to the crag every other climbing day?

What a guy. Why is that the best best British redpointers are so damn humble?

chris_j_s

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#1807 Re: significant repeats
January 24, 2011, 12:22:44 pm
His onsighting seems to be going okay too... onsighted L Mens, 8b+ at Montsant yesterday.

Doylo

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#1808 Re: significant repeats
January 25, 2011, 01:20:23 pm
2nd brit to onsight 8b+?

simes

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#1809 Re: significant repeats
January 25, 2011, 06:49:41 pm
2nd brit to onsight 8b+?

I onsighted one a while ago. Although I didnt do the top 20 metres cos there was snow on it.

Charles

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#1810 Re: significant repeats
January 26, 2011, 07:17:26 pm
Is there some media etc. of P Rob's crushing?  I know a tree can't fall over in a wood in the Peak without someone taking some video of it!

Dunno if this got posted in news or non quality/quality bouldering vids but the second half of this video has Robinson doing the Ace.

tomtom

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#1811 Re: significant repeats
January 26, 2011, 07:41:12 pm
Skip to 2:30 and try not to grimace at the music...

ducko

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#1812 Re: significant repeats
January 27, 2011, 12:31:46 am
robinsons good, the music is poor

pete b

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#1813 Re: significant repeats
January 27, 2011, 11:51:58 am
I thought The Ace was a sit down start?

Johnny Brown

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#1814 Re: significant repeats
January 27, 2011, 11:54:44 am
No, The Joker starts off a block, The Ace from the ground.

Adam Lincoln

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#1815 Re: significant repeats
January 27, 2011, 02:07:09 pm
I thought The Ace was a sit down start?

Not yet, but a few people have been trying a low sitter.

Jim

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#1816 Re: significant repeats
January 27, 2011, 02:47:03 pm
bit hard for percy i'd of thought?

Jaspersharpe

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#1817 Re: significant repeats
January 27, 2011, 02:52:50 pm
Has he done the Deliverance sitter yet?

Percy B

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#1818 Re: significant repeats
January 27, 2011, 08:48:21 pm
Done years ago

Percy B

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#1819 Re: significant repeats
January 27, 2011, 08:49:42 pm
You cheeky twats!

Percy B

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#1820 Re: significant repeats
January 27, 2011, 08:50:51 pm
 ;)

willackers

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#1821 Re: significant repeats
January 31, 2011, 07:47:39 pm
Varian's repeated Bed of Procrustes, looks nails, what grade is it?

http://www.ukclimbing.com/images/dbpage.html?id=165110



willackers

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#1823 Re: significant repeats
January 31, 2011, 07:57:00 pm
I'd heard that I just wondered if Dan thought it was 8a+ or 8b, after having a walk along to take a look I'd say it definitely looks 8b!

Good work anyway!

Nick B

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#1824 Re: significant repeats
January 31, 2011, 08:13:12 pm
Dan thought about 8a+, but he said he wouldn't be surprised if it went down to 8a with a better way of doing the bottom section

 

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