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significant repeats (Read 2477836 times)

Moo

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#1700 Re: significant repeats
December 26, 2010, 03:57:39 pm
i see paul robinson has just turned the fata block into a pile of dust

fata morgana

fata morgana bas

satan i helvete

satan i helvete bas

all in his first climbing day  :jaw:

northerngreg

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#1701 Re: significant repeats
December 26, 2010, 05:37:29 pm
Incroyable! Big Island next?

Moo

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#1702 Re: significant repeats
December 26, 2010, 05:52:51 pm
no he plans to spend the rest of his time there sieging science friction

northerngreg

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#1703 Re: significant repeats
December 26, 2010, 05:57:17 pm
We've all been there...

slackline

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#1704 Re: significant repeats
December 26, 2010, 09:28:36 pm
See the blog for whats planned, Chaos, Big Dragon and The Island.

EDIT : Correction of problem name (just as well I linked to the blog)
« Last Edit: December 26, 2010, 09:35:26 pm by slack---line »

andy_e

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#1705 Re: significant repeats
December 26, 2010, 09:31:00 pm
Bit of a detour to go from Font to Queen's.

carlisle slapper

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#1706 Re: significant repeats
December 28, 2010, 12:30:04 pm
P Whitty has flashed The Power of the Dark Side at the upper matlock quarries, more here.

http://fiveten.com/community/blog/10811-e8-flash

big cahones indeed and a fine effort.

grimer

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#1707 Re: significant repeats
December 28, 2010, 12:38:57 pm
Shit the bed that's impressive. From looking at this, it's not one of those 'highball E8' style routes. It's big and very intimidating looking. Out there.

I presume Tom's project is the amazing arete just to its left. These are two seriously inpressive lines, albeit in a bit of an underwhelming setting.

Grubes

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#1708 Re: significant repeats
December 28, 2010, 05:37:30 pm
P Whitty has flashed The Power of the Dark Side at the upper matlock quarries, more here.

http://fiveten.com/community/blog/10811-e8-flash

big cahones indeed and a fine effort.

Awesome  :bounce:

dan lane

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#1709 Re: significant repeats
December 28, 2010, 08:48:23 pm
Very impressive, looks nails.

Tommy

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#1710 Re: significant repeats
December 28, 2010, 10:36:22 pm
Yeah, it's a great finish to 2010 for Pete. He's going so well at the moment it just not even a surprise any more some of the stuff he gets up! He looked so decisive on Power of the Dark Side - really solid. A good effort as well in the fact that it's little repeated so still a little of an unknown quantity.

grimer

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#1711 Re: significant repeats
December 29, 2010, 12:43:09 pm
From where I'm sitting, ie quite some distance away, in an armchair, Pete's flash is as impressive as Ryan's on Knocking.

cofe

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#1712 Re: significant repeats
December 29, 2010, 12:46:57 pm
Word is James did the other arete there the other day. Impressive stuff from both climbers if so. Two amazing lines.

duncan

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#1713 Re: significant repeats
December 29, 2010, 08:04:47 pm
Hazel Findlay has done the Bachar-Yerian, alternating leads with Will Stanhope.  Female ascentionists of the B-Y must be a pretty select club.

I see the borg have picked up on this.

Further digging suggests Lynn Hill got two pitches up the B-Y before bailing (The source,  Mr Gnome, is the second on this film, so presumably a fairly reliable source).


Sounds like Hazel might be the first female ascentionist.

T_B

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#1714 Re: significant repeats
December 29, 2010, 09:00:16 pm

Sounds like Hazel might be the first female ascentionist.

I did BY in '93 (?) with Eve Prickett (now Richards). Eve didn't lead any of the pitches, but she didn't fall off any either and she was only 16 at the time.

As an aside, I was a 'host' on a BMC meet to Font when Hazel must have been about 12? She was the most talented/confident of the youngsters, though Leah Crane was probably stronger/more competitive. Both stood out a mile. Tom Bolger was on the same trip (though he had a knackered finger). Look at em now eh!

Johnny Brown

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#1715 Re: significant repeats
December 29, 2010, 09:02:21 pm
Ah good, was about to post that but wasn't sure how true it was!

slackline

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#1716 Re: significant repeats
December 30, 2010, 08:23:52 am
Look at em now eh!

You old git!  :P

Drew

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#1717 Re: significant repeats
December 31, 2010, 03:08:14 pm
Sounds like Hazel might be the first female ascentionist.

Obviously I have no idea how accurate this is, but the Rock & Ice magazine at work, from Dec '97 claims on the contents page "Lynn Hill does Bachar-Yerian", then goes on later in the mag to say she "led the key second and third pitches...". it doesn't go into any more detail than that.

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Doylo

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#1719 Re: significant repeats
January 01, 2011, 02:55:57 pm
These guys like Robinson and Woods really are operating at a fantastic standard, crushing everywhere.  Ty's stint in Font was a step up at the time. He went there and tore it up like no one had before. The bar has been raised again by the speed of these ascents by Robinson.  Ondra still kicks arse when he has his annual bouldering spree though!

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monkey boy

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#1721 Re: significant repeats
January 02, 2011, 07:55:10 pm
Mick (Page not Paige) did do Big Paw, sure I put it on here. He also repeated Entlinge today!

mrjonathanr

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#1722 Re: significant repeats
January 02, 2011, 08:17:44 pm
Sounds like Hazel might be the first female ascentionist.

Obviously I have no idea how accurate this is, but the Rock & Ice magazine at work, from Dec '97 claims on the contents page "Lynn Hill does Bachar-Yerian", then goes on later in the mag to say she "led the key second and third pitches...". it doesn't go into any more detail than that.

I've climbed with Lynn and the idea that she'd bail on a route of that difficulty sounds improbable to me. can't add any real info though.

Doylo

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#1723 Re: significant repeats
January 02, 2011, 08:25:07 pm
Mick (Page not Paige) did do Big Paw, sure I put it on here. He also repeated Entlinge today!

For those who don't know this is a swiss 8c (4th ascent)? Zangerl doing it here:

yorkshirewarcry

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#1724 Re: significant repeats
January 03, 2011, 09:14:32 pm
High Fidelity got a repeaty today at Caley - not sure who the climber was, but there were some very vocal celebrations...

 

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