UKBouldering.com

significant repeats (Read 2445475 times)

T_B

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 2701
  • Karma: +124/-5
#1575 Re: significant repeats
November 09, 2010, 02:32:49 pm
I had a look (from the ground I might add) at Antithesis the other day and it looks as though you need to climb up, round and down to get the side runner in. Unless ppl are now bouldering directly up to and relying on that one small letterbox slot. Either way, it looks like a v fall-offable route.

jcm

Offline
  • **
  • addict
  • Posts: 122
  • Karma: +18/-43
#1576 Re: significant repeats
November 09, 2010, 04:03:49 pm
Judging by this picture

http://www.ukc2.com/images/dbpage.html?id=104600

you just climb up to the top of Bed of Nails and place your side runner there. Or are you talking about another side runner?

T_B

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 2701
  • Karma: +124/-5
#1577 Re: significant repeats
November 09, 2010, 04:09:01 pm
that's what I mean. It's more of a top rope than a side runner really

jcm

Offline
  • **
  • addict
  • Posts: 122
  • Karma: +18/-43
#1578 Re: significant repeats
November 09, 2010, 04:18:46 pm
Yes. All a bit Sunday at Chapel. Seems to be a local tradition.

jakes

Offline
  • *
  • regular
  • Posts: 63
  • Karma: +2/-0
#1579 Re: significant repeats
November 10, 2010, 09:59:59 am

By who? Up there with Barrans flash of Groove is in the heart.


I've heard/read that Groove is in the Heart is now regarded by some as being 7C+ due to a different sequence being used. Nonetheless, still a good effort.

From carlisle slappers blog:

Quote

My sequence was much easier than Mikes (i did the moves on mikes sequence and id have definitely given it 8A+ if id used that) That said the boulder is generally exholdiating so i can see this problem changing grades alot if it gets lots of attention over coming years. For the sequence i used (will put a video up when i get a decent connection) id feel bad taking more than 7C+ for it.


Ru

Offline
  • *****
  • Global Moderator
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 1813
  • Karma: +105/-0
#1580 Re: significant repeats
November 10, 2010, 10:03:58 am
Different Groove is in the Heart's - one in Cornwall, one on grit.

Edit: Plus I think Dave onsighted Little Women, not Groove.
« Last Edit: November 10, 2010, 10:11:21 am by Ru »

Nigel

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 1592
  • Karma: +135/-1
#1581 Re: significant repeats
November 10, 2010, 10:11:36 am
Was it even Groove Is In The Heart (Hamper's Hang bit of Stanage to save confusion)? I knew he flashed Little Women, which is just to the left, but didn't hear about this one. Possible mix up (again!)?

T_B

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 2701
  • Karma: +124/-5
#1582 Re: significant repeats
November 10, 2010, 10:17:59 am
Yep. More mixing up. Barrans flashed Little Women. I believe Bransby did Groove is in the heart ground up. Which probably is Font 7c+ as well...

cofe

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 5725
  • Karma: +180/-5
#1583 Re: significant repeats
November 10, 2010, 10:22:10 am
I think Bransby's mum was belaying him too. Legend.

SA Chris

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 25063
  • Karma: +530/-10
    • http://groups.msn.com/ChrisClix
#1584 Re: significant repeats
November 10, 2010, 10:23:32 am
Geez, call yourselves professional news reporters? :)

mark s

Offline
  • ****
  • junky
  • Posts: 812
  • Karma: +72/-4
#1585 Re: significant repeats
November 10, 2010, 02:16:12 pm
Nice one ryan.
Would imagine nadin used that gear.
I belayed ben on it a few years ago with adam on camera duty.ben climbed out of the route pretty much mid crux to place a runner and reversed back then carried on up.must have made it harder for himself,but he strolled it anyway.

Johnny Brown

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 10598
  • Karma: +556/-20
#1586 Re: significant repeats
November 10, 2010, 05:20:48 pm
Quote
I think Bransby's mum was belaying him too. Legend.

She was indeed. Here they are:


willackers

Offline
  • ****
  • junky
  • Posts: 877
  • Karma: +126/-0
    • Vimeo
#1587 Re: significant repeats
November 10, 2010, 05:37:07 pm

richieb

Offline
  • **
  • menacing presence
  • Posts: 243
  • Karma: +23/-1
#1588 Re: significant repeats
November 10, 2010, 06:32:19 pm
Agreed. That looks stunning.

Fiend

Offline
  • *
  • _
  • forum hero
  • Abominable sex magick practitioner and climbing heathen
  • Posts: 10737
  • Karma: +483/-64
  • Whut
#1589 Re: significant repeats
November 10, 2010, 06:50:58 pm
Was Klem spotting too??

(For Groove, not for The Young).

Young sounds great, photo of the block looks awesome.

nik at work

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 3367
  • Karma: +284/-2
#1590 Re: significant repeats
November 10, 2010, 07:00:05 pm

gme

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 1481
  • Karma: +127/-6
#1591 Re: significant repeats
November 10, 2010, 09:02:31 pm
Best peice of rock in gods county and therfore the world.

willackers

Offline
  • ****
  • junky
  • Posts: 877
  • Karma: +126/-0
    • Vimeo
#1592 Re: significant repeats
November 10, 2010, 09:28:19 pm
 
Best peice of rock in gods county and therfore the world.
:bow:

lukeyboy

Offline
  • ***
  • obsessive maniac
  • Posts: 310
  • Karma: +10/-0
#1593 Re: significant repeats
November 10, 2010, 09:38:05 pm
The Young looks just unbelievable  :o

topcat

Offline
  • *
  • newbie
  • Posts: 18
  • Karma: +2/-0
#1594 Re: significant repeats
November 10, 2010, 10:14:48 pm
I thought those things looked like fossilized tree stumps. It's bloody hard to find the first time you go in there. Lovely piece of rock. Fancy a trip down there Will - now you've decided your finger's not buggered after all?

Moo

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 1211
  • Karma: +59/-5
#1595 Re: significant repeats
November 13, 2010, 12:15:21 pm
looks like Koyamada has just repeated big paw another of dave grahams swizzy 8c's if he posted on here i'm sure he'd have plenty of positive karma  :bow:

mark s

Offline
  • ****
  • junky
  • Posts: 812
  • Karma: +72/-4
#1596 Re: significant repeats
November 13, 2010, 02:20:30 pm
News direct from the crag-tom and pete have soloed rays roof!!!!! Nutters

Drew

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Am I really a
  • Posts: 1749
  • Karma: +36/-4
#1597 Re: significant repeats
November 13, 2010, 02:29:43 pm
Waddage to Dai, Tommy, and Pete. Do you know if they fell off at all? Surely landing on their heads would've knocked some sense into them.

Adam Lincoln

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 4607
  • Karma: +100/-27
    • Flickr Page, Vimeo Videos and Blog
#1598 Re: significant repeats
November 13, 2010, 02:32:58 pm
Waddage to Dai, Tommy, and Pete. Do you know if they fell off at all? Surely landing on their heads would've knocked some sense into them.

They said they planned to use a few pads, not sure if they fell though. Fine effort boys.  8)

Drew

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Am I really a
  • Posts: 1749
  • Karma: +36/-4
#1599 Re: significant repeats
November 13, 2010, 02:41:27 pm
Yeah I know about the pads. I was using one until last night, when I had to give it up  :'(  I think Ned had the other one. They're brill pads. Absolutely massive. Shame they don't make them for real  :(

 

SimplePortal 2.3.7 © 2008-2020, SimplePortal