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significant repeats (Read 4236651 times)

T_B

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#1575 Re: significant repeats
November 09, 2010, 04:09:01 pm
that's what I mean. It's more of a top rope than a side runner really

jcm

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#1576 Re: significant repeats
November 09, 2010, 04:18:46 pm
Yes. All a bit Sunday at Chapel. Seems to be a local tradition.

jakes

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#1577 Re: significant repeats
November 10, 2010, 09:59:59 am

By who? Up there with Barrans flash of Groove is in the heart.


I've heard/read that Groove is in the Heart is now regarded by some as being 7C+ due to a different sequence being used. Nonetheless, still a good effort.

From carlisle slappers blog:

Quote

My sequence was much easier than Mike’s (i did the moves on mikes sequence and i’d have definitely given it 8A+ if i’d used that) That said the boulder is generally exholdiating so i can see this problem changing grades alot if it gets lots of attention over coming years. For the sequence i used (will put a video up when i get a decent connection) i’d feel bad taking more than 7C+ for it.


Ru

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#1578 Re: significant repeats
November 10, 2010, 10:03:58 am
Different Groove is in the Heart's - one in Cornwall, one on grit.

Edit: Plus I think Dave onsighted Little Women, not Groove.
« Last Edit: November 10, 2010, 10:11:21 am by Ru »

Nigel

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#1579 Re: significant repeats
November 10, 2010, 10:11:36 am
Was it even Groove Is In The Heart (Hamper's Hang bit of Stanage to save confusion)? I knew he flashed Little Women, which is just to the left, but didn't hear about this one. Possible mix up (again!)?

T_B

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#1580 Re: significant repeats
November 10, 2010, 10:17:59 am
Yep. More mixing up. Barrans flashed Little Women. I believe Bransby did Groove is in the heart ground up. Which probably is Font 7c+ as well...

cofe

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#1581 Re: significant repeats
November 10, 2010, 10:22:10 am
I think Bransby's mum was belaying him too. Legend.

SA Chris

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#1582 Re: significant repeats
November 10, 2010, 10:23:32 am
Geez, call yourselves professional news reporters? :)

mark s

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#1583 Re: significant repeats
November 10, 2010, 02:16:12 pm
Nice one ryan.
Would imagine nadin used that gear.
I belayed ben on it a few years ago with adam on camera duty.ben climbed out of the route pretty much mid crux to place a runner and reversed back then carried on up.must have made it harder for himself,but he strolled it anyway.

Johnny Brown

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#1584 Re: significant repeats
November 10, 2010, 05:20:48 pm
Quote
I think Bransby's mum was belaying him too. Legend.

She was indeed. Here they are:


willackers

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#1585 Re: significant repeats
November 10, 2010, 05:37:07 pm

richieb

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#1586 Re: significant repeats
November 10, 2010, 06:32:19 pm
Agreed. That looks stunning.

Fiend

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#1587 Re: significant repeats
November 10, 2010, 06:50:58 pm
Was Klem spotting too??

(For Groove, not for The Young).

Young sounds great, photo of the block looks awesome.

nik at work

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#1588 Re: significant repeats
November 10, 2010, 07:00:05 pm

gme

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#1589 Re: significant repeats
November 10, 2010, 09:02:31 pm
Best peice of rock in gods county and therfore the world.

willackers

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#1590 Re: significant repeats
November 10, 2010, 09:28:19 pm
 
Best peice of rock in gods county and therfore the world.
:bow:

lukeyboy

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#1591 Re: significant repeats
November 10, 2010, 09:38:05 pm
The Young looks just unbelievable  :o

topcat

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#1592 Re: significant repeats
November 10, 2010, 10:14:48 pm
I thought those things looked like fossilized tree stumps. It's bloody hard to find the first time you go in there. Lovely piece of rock. Fancy a trip down there Will - now you've decided your finger's not buggered after all?

Moo

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#1593 Re: significant repeats
November 13, 2010, 12:15:21 pm
looks like Koyamada has just repeated big paw another of dave grahams swizzy 8c's if he posted on here i'm sure he'd have plenty of positive karma  :bow:

mark s

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#1594 Re: significant repeats
November 13, 2010, 02:20:30 pm
News direct from the crag-tom and pete have soloed rays roof!!!!! Nutters

Drew

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#1595 Re: significant repeats
November 13, 2010, 02:29:43 pm
Waddage to Dai, Tommy, and Pete. Do you know if they fell off at all? Surely landing on their heads would've knocked some sense into them.

Adam Lincoln

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#1596 Re: significant repeats
November 13, 2010, 02:32:58 pm
Waddage to Dai, Tommy, and Pete. Do you know if they fell off at all? Surely landing on their heads would've knocked some sense into them.

They said they planned to use a few pads, not sure if they fell though. Fine effort boys.  8)

Drew

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#1597 Re: significant repeats
November 13, 2010, 02:41:27 pm
Yeah I know about the pads. I was using one until last night, when I had to give it up  :'(  I think Ned had the other one. They're brill pads. Absolutely massive. Shame they don't make them for real  :(

Adam Lincoln

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#1598 Re: significant repeats
November 13, 2010, 05:47:42 pm
Another E8 flash for Ryan today. Slab and crack this time. Time for an E9 i think!

cofe

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#1599 Re: significant repeats
November 13, 2010, 06:21:12 pm
i'd give him e9 for knockin'.

 

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