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significant repeats (Read 2439779 times)

Richard Sharpe

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#1500 Re: significant repeats
October 15, 2010, 02:45:20 pm
*Possibly New Noise.  I've not looked at this, but from asking around others who have tried, there   
  where only two undercuts, and no other obvious choice.

the hold on new noise definately wasn't an obvious choice, dave mason didn't spot it either on the same day as Leo found it, it actually feels worse than the other hold and to me almost felt like it was useless (untill you actually pulled on maybee no one thought it was usable as it is alot smaller, especially when there is a bigger more obvious hold to use) it also felt and looked like it's been there for a long time but I could be completely wrong. 

TomP

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#1501 Re: significant repeats
October 15, 2010, 03:11:46 pm
Put a bit about this on the dyno thread but thought it was worth putting here too.

Dave Gater nabbed what is believed to be the second ascent of Iberia Sit Start in Navalossa, Spain. It involves thin, technical climbing into a mammoth dyno and given 8a+. He nearly flashed the dyno (8a) but did it second go. As soon as he'd worked out the sit moves he sent the SDS in a few goes. Amazing to watch. I have footage of the send but can't upload for a while. Will do as soon as I can. Here's a teaser (sorry the photo is so large, can't reduce it):



Oh yeah, he also flashed an 8a dyno called Turbo Kleenex in Albarracin and did a couple of other 8a dynos in a few goes!  :bow:

cofe

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#1502 Re: significant repeats
October 15, 2010, 03:48:48 pm
He looks like a guy we met in Mello in May.

boulderingbacon

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#1503 Re: significant repeats
October 15, 2010, 04:40:01 pm
if the dyno start hold is the one by his feet, hand hold to hand hold that must be about 8 feet.(240cm). pretty mahoosive

TomP

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#1504 Re: significant repeats
October 15, 2010, 04:52:22 pm
He looks like a guy we met in Mello in May.

Think it was. He's been about a bit!

if the dyno start hold is the one by his feet, hand hold to hand hold that must be about 8 feet.(240cm). pretty mahoosive

Yeah it 's the one by his feet. The one he did in Czech is quite a bit bigger I think

El Mocho

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#1505 Re: significant repeats
October 15, 2010, 04:57:09 pm
Pete did Sea of Tranquillity this morning, sounds pretty hard. Is this the second ascent? (Neil Carsons ascent?)

"the hardest climb I have ever done"

I guess if this is harder than LA then it must be top top 8c! He does like to pick them.

Well done throbber

nodder

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#1506 Re: significant repeats
October 15, 2010, 05:02:34 pm
Good skills.   

Pantontino

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#1507 Re: significant repeats
October 15, 2010, 06:15:58 pm
Is this the second ascent? (Neil Carsons ascent?)

I think the photo caption in the old guide was a mistake - I'm pretty sure it's the second ascent.

Fine effort.

Doylo

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#1508 Re: significant repeats
October 15, 2010, 09:06:02 pm
I also think it was a mistake.

Awesome repeat!

Jaspersharpe

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#1509 Re: significant repeats
October 20, 2010, 09:20:42 am
Not sure if I've missed it being reported anywhere on here but I see (via Dobbin on Twitter and 8a.twat) that our own Mr Mason has climbed 8B in Switzerland (Permanent Midnight @ Fionnay).

Top effort!

lukeyboy

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#1510 Re: significant repeats
October 21, 2010, 08:17:04 am
Adam Pustlenik from Poland repeated Action Directe http://sonnietrotter.com/2010/10/20/adam/

petercrimp

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#1511 Re: significant repeats
October 21, 2010, 05:09:02 pm
Adam Pustelnik

neil h

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#1512 Re: significant repeats
October 21, 2010, 06:55:28 pm
Michele Caminati repeats the island, think he might have downgraded it as well, looks like its now 50/50 8b+/8c

GCW

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#1513 Re: significant repeats
October 21, 2010, 07:49:13 pm
Is that from the original start or the Big Island version?  Nice one either way.

neil h

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#1514 Re: significant repeats
October 21, 2010, 08:29:46 pm
the dave way  ;)

Bonjoy

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#1515 Re: significant repeats
October 22, 2010, 02:00:27 pm
Ryan has just flashed Knockin’ on Heavens Door after watching Nige’s successful headpoint! Effort beasts!  :great:

cofe

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#1516 Re: significant repeats
October 22, 2010, 02:08:39 pm
Jeebus.

willackers

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#1517 Re: significant repeats
October 22, 2010, 02:19:24 pm
Good work!  :bow:

slackline

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#1518 Re: significant repeats
October 22, 2010, 02:22:07 pm
Skills  :bow:

SA Chris

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#1519 Re: significant repeats
October 22, 2010, 02:35:14 pm
Thus outdating JB's article almost immediately.

Great work.

Andy F

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#1520 Re: significant repeats
October 22, 2010, 03:22:19 pm
Ye gads  :jaw:

Fiend

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#1521 Re: significant repeats
October 22, 2010, 03:24:32 pm
Proper  :thumbsup:

remus

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#1522 Re: significant repeats
October 22, 2010, 03:47:53 pm
What a machine.

csurfleet

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#1523 Re: significant repeats
October 22, 2010, 04:06:21 pm
Woaaah  :thumbsup:

Stu Littlefair

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#1524 Re: significant repeats
October 22, 2010, 05:03:11 pm
I guess that's what it sounds like when your chin hits the floor.
Fucking hell.

 

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