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significant repeats (Read 2501609 times)

Drew

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#1475 Re: significant repeats
September 28, 2010, 12:27:34 pm
me really want to see someone have a go at his climbs such as echo wall etc (seems unlikely).
Didn't Steve McClure do Rhapsody in 3 sessions?

I'm pretty sure he did it on his second Redpoint attempt. Let's be fair though, he's climbed 9a+, and Rhapsody is 8c?

nodder

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#1476 Re: significant repeats
September 29, 2010, 10:20:20 am
Quote
Leo Moger and Rich Sharpe were the other two that repeated New Noise. Rich isn't sure how the new hold can make much difference as it is smaller, sharper and he's never climbed 8a before in 3 tries, or climbed 8a.... Logged

In the intrest of concensus what grade did they think it might be then?   

Richard Sharpe

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#1477 Re: significant repeats
September 29, 2010, 06:46:22 pm
Quote
Leo Moger and Rich Sharpe were the other two that repeated New Noise. Rich isn't sure how the new hold can make much difference as it is smaller, sharper and he's never climbed 8a before in 3 tries, or climbed 8a.... Logged

In the intrest of concensus what grade did they think it might be then?   

I believe Leo has said he thinks it could be anywhere from 7b+ to 7c+ due to the fact that when he did it he was injured, tired and climbing badly. But he is the strongest man alive so I'm not sure if that is a fair analysis. I would say it is one of the hardest climbs I've done but would say definitely no harder than 8a maybee  even 7c+ with the slightly different hold but I'm really not the person to grade it as I've never climbed 8a, I'm gonna say 7c+ now.
I also have to say the original sequence is very hard and watching Dave mason climb it this way was amazing, I couldn't even pull on this way and he made it look easy, beast.

Best some other wads get on it with the new knowledge and let's us know what they think I'd certainly like a second opinion

nodder

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#1478 Re: significant repeats
September 29, 2010, 08:34:08 pm
Cheers for the reply, got to give si as many headaches as possible for the second edition.  Its my job. Should be easy with feedback like 7b+/7c+.   Good effort by the way. 

Richard Sharpe

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#1479 Re: significant repeats
September 29, 2010, 09:28:00 pm
Glad to be of service, id go with 7c+ seems to me to be about right

r-man

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#1480 Re: significant repeats
September 30, 2010, 02:55:25 am
Just found out Polish Dave did Keen Roof about a week ago. Very pleased for him - it's been an epic!

Adam Lincoln

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#1481 Re: significant repeats
September 30, 2010, 11:42:55 pm
Word on the Street is that the car lifting crusher from Blackpool repeated 'At the heart of it all' a few weeks back.

Richie Crouch

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#1482 Re: significant repeats
September 30, 2010, 11:44:46 pm
Word on the Street is that the car lifting crusher from Blackpool repeated 'At the heart of it all' a few weeks back.

 :jaw:

GCW

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#1483 Re: significant repeats
September 30, 2010, 11:51:55 pm
Just sent a confirmation request to the big gay fecker.

a dense loner

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#1484 Re: significant repeats
October 02, 2010, 04:44:47 pm
nodders take what richard says with a pinch of salt. he's never climbed 8a cos he's never tried one. he one-arms tiny holds to warm up, he's just miffed since he's tiny. he is also very very strong as is leo, wait a minute... as for leo being injured dave has just confirmed he was, yet still had the best days climbing of his life
dave says hi

nodder

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#1485 Re: significant repeats
October 02, 2010, 05:05:59 pm
Don't worry, we have a gritter with CJD at the helm, I  assumed their were no 8a's left in the peak by now and that was why he hadn't done one. 

neil h

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#1486 Re: significant repeats
October 04, 2010, 09:13:17 pm
has this been reported ?

impressive makes it look like a path


Jim

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#1487 Re: significant repeats
October 04, 2010, 09:51:30 pm
what a fucking beast!

Paul B

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#1488 Re: significant repeats
October 04, 2010, 10:00:26 pm
has this been reported ?
impressive makes it look like a path

Cracking effort but you've lost the plot a bit if you go to Rodellar and end up in the Alibaba cave..

Ru

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#1489 Re: significant repeats
October 04, 2010, 10:33:54 pm
Cracking effort but you've lost the plot a bit if you go to Rodellar and end up in the Alibaba cave..

He also onsighted 10 8a+s, 4 8b/+s and one 8b+ and did Los Borrachos de Mascun whilst he was there, so I imagine that he got a feel for the place as a whole.

Paul B

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#1490 Re: significant repeats
October 04, 2010, 10:36:40 pm
F*ck me, thats not a bad ticklist.

c.j.d.

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#1491 Re: significant repeats
October 05, 2010, 08:28:35 am
New Noise 7c+ (or possibly 7b+).  Good effort guys, this took me a while.  The 'original' sequence last time I looked was the only sequence, so I'm going to check out this other 'smaller' hold soon.

Its great to see psyched people checking out these lines - they've been around for a while now.  We are being a bit weary in these parts right now as there is a handful of popular problems (cave through to the pass) and a few hidden gems that have been altered dramatically.  It does make you wonder.

No finger pointed at the guys who repeated New Noise here - I find that chippers are generally pretty week, and probably never get the deed done anyway - shame.  OR, a may have missed a sequence!

superfurrymonkey

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#1492 Re: significant repeats
October 05, 2010, 07:57:04 pm
Which problems have been altered Chris?

c.j.d.

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#1493 Re: significant repeats
October 15, 2010, 10:16:14 am
Sorry - a bit late on this one!

* Jerry's Roof.  Crux hold is totally different and not due to weathering.  Now 7b+.
* Bus Stop.  Huge chip on the third hold.  This was a sloper, now in-cut.  Again 7b/+.
*Beatitudes Kiss.  New hold and improved crimp on this.
*Possibly New Noise.  I've not looked at this, but from asking around others who have tried, there   
  where only two undercuts, and no other obvious choice.

Plus various others...  Its a shame this, and if their is a singular person out there doing the deed, please desist at risk of ruining more classics which you probably still fail on either way.

Adam Lincoln

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#1494 Re: significant repeats
October 15, 2010, 10:18:38 am
*Possibly New Noise.  I've not looked at this, but from asking around others who have tried, there   
  where only two undercuts, and no other obvious choice.

Didn't notice any other when i was at this problem in June. I believe me, i had a good look around.
As for the others.  :o

Jaspersharpe

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#1495 Re: significant repeats
October 15, 2010, 10:40:19 am
Fucking hell, that's shocking.  :spank:

Snoops

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#1496 Re: significant repeats
October 15, 2010, 11:17:23 am
Fucking hell, that's shocking.  :spank:

I really don't get it. I can (just) about get my head round the thought process of some dick/ignoramus  chipping an unclimbed project (still outrageous) in order to have some false glory.

BUT I even more can't understand why someone who obviously shouldn't be completely fucking ignorant if their climbing in the 7's would want to chip a problem in order to tick it............
How do they get any fun/satisfaction/ambition/fulfillment out of ticking a problem they obviously wanted to do badly after they have fucking ruined it.

Fucking cunts it pisses me off

« Last Edit: October 15, 2010, 11:29:47 am by Snoops »

csurfleet

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#1497 Re: significant repeats
October 15, 2010, 11:27:15 am
Diiiicks, a couple of problems I was really looking forward to getting strong enough for there, instant psychesmotherage  :furious:

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#1498 Re: significant repeats
October 15, 2010, 11:35:48 am
You recon this will change Mr. Fantastic? Going this weekend anyway so report back on monday on the damage!
But for now I am off for a cry  :'(

nodder

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#1499 Re: significant repeats
October 15, 2010, 11:54:01 am
Don't worry this is all been the same for at least 6 months. Maybe we are wrong and it is just wear and tear, but the left hand end of the crimp on bus stop used to have a spike on it that you caught with your first two fingers then crimped up on if you so desired, now there seems to be an indent into the hold about an inch or so long.  The whole hold is about a packet of rizzlas away from the rock now and sounds hollow.  It is much more positive than it was I think.  The upshot of it all is that its easier than it was.  As for Jerry's Pinch the top of that is now flat and quite positive, again could be wear and tear but there are two groves either side of the flat bit.  Again I think it makes it easier, people at the roof disagreed with me the other day though, so who knows?  What I do know is that I dont need my feet to do the move anymore and I certainly did before...

 

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