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significant repeats (Read 2474419 times)

willackers

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#1450 Re: significant repeats
September 22, 2010, 09:31:30 am
Hmmmm, the anonymous beast strikes again................   ::)

habrich

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#1451 Re: significant repeats
September 22, 2010, 10:48:35 am
Steve Townsend repeated Tim Emmett's E10, Muy Caliente yesterday.

Quote
Townshend, a part-time pilot based in Squamish, Canada, visited the UK for a whistle-stop two days as a detour from his main trip to France.


Had he climbed in the UK before? Remarkable style if not.


chillax

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#1452 Re: significant repeats
September 22, 2010, 12:46:25 pm
Fastest ascent of an E10?

Paul B

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#1453 Re: significant repeats
September 22, 2010, 01:21:20 pm
Fastest ascent of an E10?

keenus didn't hang around on Equilibrium?

granticus

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#1454 Re: significant repeats
September 22, 2010, 06:37:36 pm
'The Machine' has sent The Cider Soak at Anstey's.  (Not significant?  'The Machine' is 14 years old and is from North Devon).   

His younger brother (12 and about 4ft tall!) sent Empire of the Sun on the same day!

Props to them both. :great:

Sorry for lack of names but not sure if they wish to remain anonomous and whether ma n pa would like their names splashed all over the t'internet.

Johnny Brown

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#1455 Re: significant repeats
September 22, 2010, 06:39:09 pm
Quote
keenus didn't hang around on Equilibrium?

Pretty sure he took longer than that. 3rd session I think?

Jim

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#1456 Re: significant repeats
September 22, 2010, 06:41:56 pm
yes, 3 sessions iirc

willackers

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#1457 Re: significant repeats
September 23, 2010, 02:36:29 pm
Quote from: Lincoln
David Mason did Pools Of Bethesda in't pass yesterday.

Beast!! How many ascents has this had now?

Higg
Malc
Simpson
Danny C
Pete R
Nodder
Mason

Think thats it?



Pretty Sure Ned did it on the 9th Sep, same days as Mr Fantastic as well! Beast!

yorkshireman

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#1458 Re: significant repeats
September 23, 2010, 02:39:07 pm
Hmmmm, the anonymous beast strikes again................   ::)

just because he pipped you to the second ascent of catapult :-\

anyone who had climbed monk life wouldnt be able to keep their mouth shut for long even if it was just to tell a few mates

willackers

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#1459 Re: significant repeats
September 23, 2010, 02:48:40 pm
Hmmmm, the anonymous beast strikes again................   ::)

just because he pipped you to the second ascent of catapult :-\


 :'(

monkey boy

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#1460 Re: significant repeats
September 23, 2010, 03:37:28 pm
Yeah Ned did repeat Pools on the same day too! Made the 5 hour round trip worth it!

tc

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#1461 Re: significant repeats
September 23, 2010, 05:03:45 pm
Fastest ascent of an E10?

What's an E10?
 :whistle:

Drew

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#1462 Re: significant repeats
September 23, 2010, 11:52:20 pm
Pretty Sure Ned did it on the 9th Sep, same days as Mr Fantastic as well! Beast!

The problem, or Dave?

yorkshireman

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#1463 Re: significant repeats
September 25, 2010, 05:13:21 pm
Hmmmm, the anonymous beast strikes again................   ::)

just because he pipped you to the second ascent of catapult :-\


 :'(

if it means anything your video was better than his :great:

Nick B

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#1464 Re: significant repeats
September 26, 2010, 06:06:01 pm
Dave Mason repeated New Noise at Tan Y Grisiau yesterday.  I thought this significant as a number of strong folk have tried this problem, and not managed to get both feet off the ground. 

Also, it was a fair few years ago that I did this, so good effort for the repeat visit to get this done.  Dave did it the original way, but there was others around which lead to the discover of another undercut, which faces in a more desirable direction (not seen this before).  I think it got done with the new hold, and it makes it more like 8a.

You can always trust the youths to find an easier sequence - I'd rather the power ( ;)).

Good effort guys!

Leo Moger and Rich Sharpe were the other two that repeated New Noise. Rich isn't sure how the new hold can make much difference as it is smaller, sharper and he's never climbed 8a before in 3 tries, or climbed 8a....

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tobym

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#1466 Re: significant repeats
September 27, 2010, 11:16:23 am
Fastest ascent of an E10?

What's an E10?
 :whistle:

maybe if Birkett had done the repeat, it might not have been, project looked pretty hard on Welsh Connections (still my favourite DVD ;))

tc

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#1467 Re: significant repeats
September 27, 2010, 01:41:47 pm
Fastest ascent of an E10?

Forgive the grumpy old man rant, but...I AM a grumpy old man. It's all fucking bollocks, this big E-grade stuff. Most are extensively rehearsed, so the outcome is largely assured, the gear is left in place, the route climbed, then a huge E-number is attached to what is basically a sport climb, which is the cue for sponsors and ignorant sycophants to line up to suck the hero's dick. Trad grades should be used only for trad climbs done in a trad manner.
Fucking hell, I feel better for that.  :)
Now where did I put my flameproof cardigan?

Fiend

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#1468 Re: significant repeats
September 27, 2010, 06:37:52 pm
Correct but then they are a fair hypothetical estimate of what it would be like to trad climb such trad climbs in a trad manner, in the context of a system which is extrapolated from the bulk of trad climbs done in a trad manner...

Admittedly it will be a happy day when onsighting is the default for top-end trad repeats as well as standard ones.

shark

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#1469 Re: significant repeats
September 28, 2010, 10:08:13 am
Correct but then they are a fair hypothetical estimate of what it would be like to trad climb such trad climbs in a trad manner, in the context of a system which is extrapolated from the bulk of trad climbs done in a trad manner...

Admittedly it will be a happy day when onsighting is the default for top-end trad repeats as well as standard ones.

Off topic discussion continued in Chuffing here

chris05

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#1470 Re: significant repeats
September 28, 2010, 10:11:07 am
According to Tim Emmett:

"Dave MacLeod got the third ascent of Muy Caliente! on Sunday :-) Dave Pickford got some brilliant pictures - watch this space! Dave agrees with the grade"
(facebook)

Sounds like another quick ascent. The speed at which Dave repeats stuff south of the border makes me really want to see someone have a go at his climbs such as echo wall etc (seems unlikely).


Grubes

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#1471 Re: significant repeats
September 28, 2010, 11:00:19 am
me really want to see someone have a go at his climbs such as echo wall etc (seems unlikely).
Din't Steve McClure do Rhapsody in 3 sessions? Also I think I read James Pearson went up there with Steve and did all the moves on top rope really quickly and got demotivate by how easy it was to escape.

chris05

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#1472 Re: significant repeats
September 28, 2010, 11:41:47 am
me really want to see someone have a go at his climbs such as echo wall etc (seems unlikely).
Din't Steve McClure do Rhapsody in 3 sessions? Also I think I read James Pearson went up there with Steve and did all the moves on top rope really quickly and got demotivate by how easy it was to escape.

Yes I was waiting for that, I dont think Steve did the same route/exit as Dave and Sonny Trotter did two or three different versions including Dave's. The consensus seemed to be that Dave's version was a bit eliminate (something he didn't disagree with). I was bouldering at Dumbarton while Steve and Sonny etc were trying Dave's route and it made exciting viewing, eliminate or not!

I guess its just the difference between new routing (not knowing if its even possible) and repeating a climb.

chris_j_s

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#1473 Re: significant repeats
September 28, 2010, 11:51:41 am
Yes I was waiting for that, I dont think Steve did the same route/exit as Dave


Steve gave that suggestion short shrift though. It boiled down to him going for the same hold but with the left instead of right hand (or the other way around I can't remember exactly) which, to my mind, starts to look like Dave just used a slightly duff sequence!  :-\

chris05

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#1474 Re: significant repeats
September 28, 2010, 11:56:25 am
Yes I was waiting for that, I dont think Steve did the same route/exit as Dave


Steve gave that suggestion short shrift though. It boiled down to him going for the same hold but with the left instead of right hand (or the other way around I can't remember exactly) which, to my mind, starts to look like Dave just used a slightly duff sequence!  :-\

ahh fair enough, probably best not to get back into that debate, we're not on ukc after all  :P

 

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