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significant repeats (Read 2439758 times)

Tim Broughtonshaw

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#1375 Re: significant repeats
July 07, 2010, 11:46:52 am
Not really significant, but then it doesn't deserve its own thread.

Few more Ondra ticks.
Waddage - Onsight
Revelations - RP
Toilet - Onsight

Tried Mutation. Close it seems.
Duh already created a new thread.

Adam Lincoln

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#1376 Re: significant repeats
July 07, 2010, 11:48:40 am
Not really significant, but then it doesn't deserve its own thread.

Few more Ondra ticks.
Waddage - Onsight
Revelations - RP
Toilet - Onsight

Tried Mutation. Close it seems.
Duh already created a new thread.

Great minds  ;)

Bonjoy

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#1377 Re: significant repeats
July 07, 2010, 12:16:44 pm

Revelations - RP

Surely this is the nail in the coffin for the argument that this is 8a+!

Adam Lincoln

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#1378 Re: significant repeats
July 07, 2010, 12:18:14 pm

Revelations - RP

Surely this is the nail in the coffin for the argument that this is 8a+!

Lets hope so!  ;)
Though he did take 8a+ for it. Maybe no on told him its supposed to be 8b?

Bonjoy

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#1379 Re: significant repeats
July 07, 2010, 12:22:04 pm
I'd imagine he'd take whatever the book told him it was.

dave

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#1380 Re: significant repeats
July 07, 2010, 12:23:07 pm
no hubble?

Bonjoy

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#1381 Re: significant repeats
July 07, 2010, 12:24:40 pm
Bit warm for that I'd have thunk.

dave

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#1382 Re: significant repeats
July 07, 2010, 12:26:17 pm
Seems pretty cool for july really, compared to what its been like recently. But point taken.

Serpico

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#1383 Re: significant repeats
July 07, 2010, 12:34:11 pm
I'd imagine he'd take whatever the book told him it was.

He downgraded The Mandela and Ecstasy from their guidebook grades.
It seems like we might be a nation of overgraders...

chris_j_s

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#1384 Re: significant repeats
July 07, 2010, 12:41:52 pm
He didn't even mark it as a hard 8a+!

Bonjoy

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#1385 Re: significant repeats
July 07, 2010, 12:57:04 pm
Probably an oversight.
The way I see it, the guy utterly rinses everything at the World Bouldering comp, then falls off a two move boulder problem start. That would tally with my feeling that the boulder prob is 7c+ and too hard to be the crux on an 8a+ (PUTP and Dialectics don't count as they are boulder probs without routes on the end). Generally there seems to be two sorts of 8a+ in the Peak, ones that are 8a+ and ones that are 8b, hence very few 8bs given 8b. Seriously anyone who thinks Austrian and Magnetic are harder than the likes of Boot Boys, Monumental, Revelations is tripping on crack.  ;D  :wave:
« Last Edit: July 07, 2010, 01:05:03 pm by Bonjoy »

T_B

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#1386 Re: significant repeats
July 07, 2010, 01:12:17 pm
The guy described The Toilet as "fun" FFS  :lol:

Turboman

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#1387 Re: significant repeats
July 07, 2010, 03:37:52 pm
I wonder if he's taking requests?

If so could someone point him at mecca for the onsight?

That would be tres cool.

liam fyfe

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#1388 Re: significant repeats
July 07, 2010, 04:32:47 pm
that would be impressive. could be possible for him thats the crazy part.!!!!!!!!!!

Adam Lincoln

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#1389 Re: significant repeats
July 07, 2010, 10:13:15 pm
In the rockfax guide as 8b, so must have stumped for the downgrade.

Bonjoy

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#1390 Re: significant repeats
July 08, 2010, 10:45:45 am
Or was going on grade given by other source/person/8a.nu.

ian dunn

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#1391 Re: significant repeats
July 08, 2010, 01:17:35 pm
No Adam heard I did it in 1991 and it had had 17 previous ascents since 1983, so no way could it be 8b!!!!Bet he is well pissed off he didn't onsight it.

ian dunn

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#1392 Re: significant repeats
July 08, 2010, 01:18:41 pm
Sorry 1984 not 83!!

account_inactive

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#1393 Re: significant repeats
July 08, 2010, 01:48:49 pm
Has it changed so much from the original. I always thought it was 8b from speaking to those who have done the rotpunt in the last few years

benpritch

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#1394 Re: significant repeats
July 08, 2010, 02:11:13 pm
in the old days it was probably a 7b/+ boulder start as opposed to a 7c/+ if my memory serves. or my fingers were stronger? actually i don't know, went on it after long trip to buoux so was good on half crimped pockets at the time.

this was probably '91?

Jaspersharpe

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#1395 Re: significant repeats
July 08, 2010, 02:14:16 pm
The pocket's way shitter than it used to be. It was 8a (or E7 6c  ;) ) originally, whether it's a full two grades harder now I don't know.

andy popp

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#1396 Re: significant repeats
July 08, 2010, 02:58:49 pm
in the old days it was probably a 7b/+ boulder start as opposed to a 7c/+ if my memory serves. or my fingers were stronger? actually i don't know, went on it after long trip to buoux so was good on half crimped pockets at the time.

this was probably '91?

I think that's cleared everything up nicely.

T_B

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#1397 Re: significant repeats
July 13, 2010, 05:26:49 pm

If so could someone point him at mecca for the onsight?


My physio (who was at the crag) informs me that he tried to on-sight Mecca but didn't manage it.

Adam Lincoln

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#1398 Re: significant repeats
July 13, 2010, 05:27:11 pm
Jordan joined the 8c club today with an ascent of True North at Kilnsey.

Robsons

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#1399 Re: significant repeats
July 13, 2010, 05:45:29 pm
Cool! Good work from him...wonder how long it will take him to get 9a?

 

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