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significant repeats (Read 2442474 times)

liam fyfe

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#1350 Re: significant repeats
July 05, 2010, 10:57:05 am
just saying its a good effort especially with no spotters and 1 pad. that last move looks well spicey!

a dense loner

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#1351 Re: significant repeats
July 05, 2010, 04:50:42 pm
why's that random dobbin? its a pretty significant repeat

uptown

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#1352 Re: significant repeats
July 05, 2010, 08:46:51 pm
I know this won't appeal to many, but I'm impressed by Paul Smitton repeating Dalliance at Kilnsey - I don't think it's had many ascents with the true finish, and I think he's been trying it a fair bit. Hardest ascent so far this year in Yakshir anyone?  :thumbsup:

Adam Lincoln

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#1353 Re: significant repeats
July 05, 2010, 09:12:54 pm
I know this won't appeal to many, but I'm impressed by Paul Smitton repeating Dalliance at Kilnsey - I don't think it's had many ascents with the true finish, and I think he's been trying it a fair bit. Hardest ascent so far this year in Yakshir anyone?  :thumbsup:

Apart from Ondra rampage  ;)

uptown

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#1354 Re: significant repeats
July 05, 2010, 10:01:18 pm
Hardest ascent so far this year in Yakshir anyone?  :thumbsup:

Apart from Ondra rampage  ;)

 ;) We all know that doesn't count.

robertostallioni

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#1355 Re: significant repeats
July 05, 2010, 10:04:06 pm
Are we ruling the jocks out too?

Stu Littlefair

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#1356 Re: significant repeats
July 05, 2010, 10:05:02 pm
and 8c Jee?

uptown

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#1357 Re: significant repeats
July 05, 2010, 10:08:17 pm
Are we ruling the jocks out too?
Give me science Roberto. Numbers please.

GCW

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#1358 Re: significant repeats
July 05, 2010, 10:10:40 pm
Why does this feel like the "What did the Roman's ever do for us?" bit of Life of Brian?

robertostallioni

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#1359 Re: significant repeats
July 05, 2010, 10:39:33 pm
Splitter.

Uptown, hang about, I'm moisturizing....


I refuse to believe Malcolm hasn't ticked an 8c down here this year.

Am I missing a bigger picture though?
With tag team ascents of Unjustified, Is there a suggestion that hard 8b+ is harder than soft 8c?

Adam Lincoln

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#1360 Re: significant repeats
July 05, 2010, 10:42:53 pm
I refuse to believe Malcolm hasn't ticked an 8c down here this year.

He has done Dr Crimp - 8b+

Doylo

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#1361 Re: significant repeats
July 05, 2010, 10:53:54 pm
and indian summer but no 8c this year in the shire yet

uptown

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#1362 Re: significant repeats
July 06, 2010, 09:23:21 am
Am I missing a bigger picture though?
With tag team ascents of Unjustified, Is there a suggestion that hard 8b+ is harder than soft 8c?
I think the numbers sum it up nicely (not the grades, the ascentionists) - You can easily argue the 8c got so many ascents because of its grade and its quality, whilst the 8b+? Who else has done it exactly? Grades are supposed to be from consensus. The hardest ascent isn't necessarily the one with the biggest numbers.
Dr. Crimp can't be harder than Dalliance Adam, otherwise you'd be trying Dalliance first.  ;)

Jaspersharpe

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#1363 Re: significant repeats
July 06, 2010, 09:28:47 am
That's odd as I always thought Dalliance was supposed to be quite soft for 8b+? Just from what people (inc. Pego) said back in the day like. Didn't realise it hadn't had many ascents.
 
 :-\

Tim Broughtonshaw

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#1364 Re: significant repeats
July 06, 2010, 09:35:49 am
That's odd as I always thought Dalliance was supposed to be quite soft for 8b+? Just from what people (inc. Pego) said back in the day like. Didn't realise it hadn't had many ascents.
 
 :-\

looking at his 8a.nu spray card it looks like its due to hold loss.

Quote
Praise the Lord! Top end since loss of holds at top


Jaspersharpe

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#1365 Re: significant repeats
July 06, 2010, 09:36:22 am
That makes sense then!

T_B

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#1366 Re: significant repeats
July 06, 2010, 09:45:30 am
Seems a bit weird that Dalliance still gets done by the original method. I've only dogged up it once, but I was given beta by Gaz Parry for a new method that he and Mcclure did at the top. It was a really nice sequence that involved getting the big sticky out crimp with your left hand rather than right, then pulling rightwards to finish using an obvious undercut. From what I remember, I think they said it was more like F8b that way. The crux was definitely the lower boulder problem to the break using that method.

Adam Lincoln

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#1367 Re: significant repeats
July 06, 2010, 01:35:38 pm
@uptown
When did I ever say dr crimp was harder than dalliance?

uptown

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#1368 Re: significant repeats
July 06, 2010, 10:35:10 pm
@uptown
When did I ever say dr crimp was harder than dalliance?

Oh Adam, I was only doing a friendly bait on you.
The OP question was whether anyone had climbed harder than Dalliance this year in the shur, you mentioned Dr. Crimp, it's not.

Seems a bit weird that Dalliance still gets done by the original method. I've only dogged up it once, but I was given beta by Gaz Parry for a new method that he and Mcclure did at the top. It was a really nice sequence that involved getting the big sticky out crimp with your left hand rather than right, then pulling rightwards to finish using an obvious undercut. From what I remember, I think they said it was more like F8b that way. The crux was definitely the lower boulder problem to the break using that method.

Fair point, but I think it's more weird that Gaz and Steve traversed off to another belay at the top of more rhubarb rather than repeating the direct line of Daves, unless they found that too hard and wanted the quickfix. Vickers did the same but traversed off leftwards for a quickfixe. All worthy I'm sure - I'll probably do the 8a+ and 8b versions, but the meat is as Smitton tasted, and it's a rare beast.

Adam Lincoln

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#1369 Re: significant repeats
July 06, 2010, 10:52:16 pm
Quote
Oh Adam, I was only doing a friendly bait on you.
The OP question was whether anyone had climbed harder than Dalliance this year in the shur, you mentioned Dr. Crimp, it's not.

Ahh, i only mentioned Dr Crimp in relation to roberto thinking Malcolm must had done an 8c this year. Not in relation to how hard Daliance is. After the world cup/bbc thread, i am a little defensive!

Paul B

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#1370 Re: significant repeats
July 06, 2010, 10:56:17 pm
so you should be you illiterate cvnt.

Adam Lincoln

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#1371 Re: significant repeats
July 06, 2010, 10:57:38 pm
so you should be you illiterate cvnt.
:lol:

robertostallioni

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#1372 Re: significant repeats
July 06, 2010, 10:59:01 pm
As it happens I just found some phone captured footage of Slopes last night in the Broadie.....


hairich

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#1373 Re: significant repeats
July 06, 2010, 11:09:44 pm
i watched nachco do the 8a+ footless problem at the cave yesterday twice while he was resting trying to do the sd to louis.monster.hope he gets it tomorrow

Adam Lincoln

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#1374 Re: significant repeats
July 07, 2010, 11:44:07 am
Not really significant, but then it doesn't deserve its own thread.

Few more Ondra ticks.
Waddage - Onsight
Revelations - RP
Toilet - Onsight

Tried Mutation. Close it seems.


 

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