I know this won't appeal to many, but I'm impressed by Paul Smitton repeating Dalliance at Kilnsey - I don't think it's had many ascents with the true finish, and I think he's been trying it a fair bit. Hardest ascent so far this year in Yakshir anyone?
Quote from: uptown on July 05, 2010, 08:46:51 pm Hardest ascent so far this year in Yakshir anyone? Apart from Ondra rampage
Hardest ascent so far this year in Yakshir anyone?
Are we ruling the jocks out too?
I refuse to believe Malcolm hasn't ticked an 8c down here this year.
Am I missing a bigger picture though? With tag team ascents of Unjustified, Is there a suggestion that hard 8b+ is harder than soft 8c?
That's odd as I always thought Dalliance was supposed to be quite soft for 8b+? Just from what people (inc. Pego) said back in the day like. Didn't realise it hadn't had many ascents.
Praise the Lord! Top end since loss of holds at top
@uptownWhen did I ever say dr crimp was harder than dalliance?
Seems a bit weird that Dalliance still gets done by the original method. I've only dogged up it once, but I was given beta by Gaz Parry for a new method that he and Mcclure did at the top. It was a really nice sequence that involved getting the big sticky out crimp with your left hand rather than right, then pulling rightwards to finish using an obvious undercut. From what I remember, I think they said it was more like F8b that way. The crux was definitely the lower boulder problem to the break using that method.
Oh Adam, I was only doing a friendly bait on you.The OP question was whether anyone had climbed harder than Dalliance this year in the shur, you mentioned Dr. Crimp, it's not.
so you should be you illiterate cvnt.
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