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significant repeats (Read 4237790 times)

Ethan

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#1200 Re: significant repeats
May 07, 2010, 11:02:52 am
Therese Johansen has done another 8A+, thats eight 8A and harder so far in 2010.

SA Chris

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#1201 Re: significant repeats
May 07, 2010, 11:43:45 am
hard to tell from pics, but potential DFBWGC too


SA Chris

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#1202 Re: significant repeats
May 07, 2010, 01:59:36 pm
Unless you missed it on Dave Mac's blog, Dave Redpath has ticked Devastation Generation (8c) 14 years after bolting it.

http://dave.scottishclimbs.com/2010/05/06/devastation-generation/

T_B

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#1203 Re: significant repeats
May 07, 2010, 04:00:45 pm
8c in socks. Keeping it scottish stylee 8)

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#1204 Re: significant repeats
May 07, 2010, 04:46:55 pm
Maybe Fiend started something when he move up?

Teaboy

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#1205 Re: significant repeats
May 08, 2010, 08:34:58 pm
Having finally run out of eliminates on Pinches Wall and traverses to link up Ru has been forced to try something different at the Tor and, today, sent Keen Roof. Good effort Mr Davies.

 :thumbsup:

Ethan

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#1206 Re: significant repeats
May 09, 2010, 08:25:20 pm
Isaac Caldiero has done the 3rd ascent of the super highball, Ambrosia



TomP

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#1207 Re: significant repeats
May 10, 2010, 09:21:27 am
Matt Birch did High Fidelity yesterday. A pretty warm afternoon at Caley but the gentle breeze meant conditions were ok. Great effort!

TonyS

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#1208 Re: significant repeats
May 10, 2010, 10:53:38 am
Matt Birch did High Fidelity yesterday.

Good to see Matt still pulling hard.

Fantastic effort, good job!!!

T

TomP

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#1209 Re: significant repeats
May 10, 2010, 11:58:22 am
He always does.

He was also really close to getting the FA of that new super hard Paul Robinson problem (SDS to Rastaman Vibration) at an earth-shattering Font8C+!! He had to leave his trip early due to problems with his flight and Paul came and got the FA. A true world class climber from Blighty

Duma

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#1210 Re: significant repeats
May 13, 2010, 02:22:42 pm
The Swede of all knowledge reports Dai has repeated The Story Of Two Worlds. Fairly significant I'd say.

Ethan

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#1211 Re: significant repeats
May 13, 2010, 08:54:08 pm
Awesome effort that. Be good to hear what Dai has to say about it.

Adam Lincoln

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#1212 Re: significant repeats
May 17, 2010, 02:01:56 pm
13 year old Randy roby climbed raindogs other day. He should have done it while he was still 12. Youngest 8a ascent in uk?

ian dunn

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#1213 Re: significant repeats
May 18, 2010, 10:27:38 am
.
13 year old Randy roby climbed raindogs other day. He should have done it while he was still 12. Youngest 8a ascent in uk?

Yes Adam, Randy is only just 13 did it 31 days after his birthday. Does anyone know the youngest ascent of an 8a by a Brit? Definitely is the youngest ascent of Raindogs, as the previous was Shauna Coxsey who did it when she was 15 i think. Kitty Wallace and Leah Crane climbed 8a abroad when they were 14 too I seem to remember.

Doylo

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#1214 Re: significant repeats
May 18, 2010, 10:48:48 am
Good effort Randy!

cofe

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#1215 Re: significant repeats
May 18, 2010, 03:21:08 pm
UKC are reporting Birkett has done 3rd ascent of Walk of Life. Not much more info yet.

Tommy

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#1216 Re: significant repeats
May 18, 2010, 09:41:27 pm
My guess would be that he didn't find it a total path as he was down there a couple of weeks before that, so might have actually taken him a couple of sessions!  :o

Good work the man with scary biceps.

Coincidentally, Toru the Japanese beast was also down that way recently at the BMC meet. I think he was on pretty fine form, although nothing rediculous as far as I know. Some great photos on Alex Ekins's photo gallery if you want to check out some really inspiring pics of Cornish granite.

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#1217 Re: significant repeats
May 18, 2010, 11:12:02 pm
Quote
Coincidentally, Toru the Japanese beast was also down that way recently at the BMC meet. I think he was on pretty fine form, although nothing ridiculous as far as I know. Some great photos on Alex Ekins's photo gallery if you want to check out some really inspiring pics of Cornish granite.

Was at Sennen on Friday with some pals as it was the only dry place in the South West, shared the place with assorted wads from the International Meet.  Some very impressive ascents going down left right and centre.  At the end of the day when things had calmed down and cooled down, Toru top roped a protectionless arete a couple of times.  He then pulled his rope and climbed the route smoothly and calmly.  I have no idea what the route is and it could've been a first ascent, it is certainly a very serious route.  No photos in Alex's gallery of this route but there was a photographer there snapping the ascent.  Perhaps, a news item and unveiling will follow or maybe it wasn't that significant.  However, the photographer was very keen to point out that we were about to witness something special (which is certainly was).  So can anyone spill the beans or have I just done so? 




Tommy

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#1218 Re: significant repeats
May 19, 2010, 02:31:50 am
Ah ok - I think that was a repeat of an E6 6a. Details are on the BMC website I believe. Looking forward to seeing a mag article or two...

grimer

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#1219 Re: significant repeats
May 19, 2010, 09:08:32 am
Actually, I think Dave Pickford said Toru did a new route (shoukld have listened better).

T_B

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#1220 Re: significant repeats
May 19, 2010, 09:17:59 am
Question Mark? Mark Edward's E9 (downgraded to E8 by Palmer) arete? Maybe not looking at this:
http://www.thebmc.co.uk/Feature.aspx?id=3686

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#1221 Re: significant repeats
May 19, 2010, 09:28:12 am
Isn't Question Mark at Cribba Head?

jstrongman

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#1222 Re: significant repeats
May 19, 2010, 09:33:14 am
The route Toru soloed at Sennen was "Hell hath no fear" E7 6c its the rounded arete below and to the right, of the Gillian and Golva wall.

monkey boy

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granticus

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#1224 Re: significant repeats
May 19, 2010, 12:33:12 pm
Quote
The route Toru soloed at Sennen was "Hell hath no fear" E7 6c its the rounded arete below and to the right, of the Gillian and Golva wall.

Yep! That's sounds like the one  :great:  It was my first visit to Sennen and I don't generally trad climb so much, so not very familiar with route names etc.. but can safely say it is a brilliant venue at any grade.  Wonderful to see someone repeat such a serious route and to reassuring to hear Toru's verdict..... 'F**king scarey!' 


 

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