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significant repeats (Read 2541604 times)

Jim

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#1175 Re: significant repeats
April 23, 2010, 10:38:20 pm
was it a friday?

account_inactive

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#1176 Re: significant repeats
April 25, 2010, 02:53:43 pm
Mina just did Pump up the Power at the Tor.  1st female ascent I think? One session and then first go today!  Beast

Ethan

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#1177 Re: significant repeats
April 25, 2010, 03:39:25 pm
 :bow: beast indeed, props to Mina!

Adam Lincoln

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#1178 Re: significant repeats
April 25, 2010, 06:50:37 pm
Fine effort! Did she bother tying on for the top?

Johnny Brown

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#1179 Re: significant repeats
April 25, 2010, 08:01:10 pm
She was tied in all the way. Doing the match off the intermediate was pretty dismaying.

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#1180 Re: significant repeats
April 25, 2010, 09:29:01 pm
Fantastic effort!  :great:

Ru

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#1181 Re: significant repeats
April 25, 2010, 10:30:09 pm
She was tied in all the way. Doing the match off the intermediate was pretty dismaying.

It was impressive.

Thinking about it, I think Patta used to pinch the intermediate in preference to the other hold.

The Sausage

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#1182 Re: significant repeats
April 26, 2010, 07:38:51 am
Well good effort indeed!

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#1183 Re: significant repeats
April 26, 2010, 09:38:13 am
She was tied in all the way. Doing the match off the intermediate was pretty dismaying.

you being at the tor AND knowing the sequence on PUTP is more dismaying.

Johnny Brown

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#1184 Re: significant repeats
April 26, 2010, 09:58:41 am
I didn't beforehand, but luckily someone was on hand to translate.

Andy Harris

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#1185 Re: significant repeats
April 27, 2010, 11:43:53 am
Fantastic effort Mina, an historic tick and a hard one to boot. You should check out Culloden it's very similar and really quite a good boulder problem route.

Patter did indeed do it off this hold but remember the hold above (the better one) didn't used to be better. You could only do a  2 finger crimp on the spike as a gaston. Something fell off making it a bigger meaning you can now use 4 fingers and a thumb on the spike. So i suspect it's just a case of strengths and weaknesses.

Paul B

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#1186 Re: significant repeats
April 27, 2010, 01:50:34 pm
Big Stevie H has repeated Hugh:

http://www.ukclimbing.com/news/item.php?id=53125

details on the other channel. Maybe Omar should be listening to big Steve and not us.

c3po

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#1187 Re: significant repeats
April 28, 2010, 09:59:58 am
I think Hugh is shown in this compilation

Awesome tick, even if this was one of the young rock stars, I wounder what level he'll be climbing when he's 60 :bow:.

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#1188 Re: significant repeats
April 28, 2010, 11:28:45 am
Rouhling is a beast, need to see more videos of him, the bonus footage at the end of First Ascent(?) looks so sick hard it should come with a health warning.

Stevie is a beast too, strength to strength.

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#1189 Re: significant repeats
April 28, 2010, 12:03:31 pm
Hat's off to Stevie. Fucking amazing.

Completely agree re FR too Fiend. The word monster was designed for him.

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#1190 Re: significant repeats
April 28, 2010, 12:10:58 pm
I thought the thing with Hugh was that it was a series of massive dynos and it was said at the time that you needed to be FR size to do the route. Regardless this is pretty awesome

GCW

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#1191 Re: significant repeats
April 28, 2010, 12:11:29 pm
Video of repeat here.


Quote from: Fred Rouhling in Grimper 43
The first roof:
Five moves lead to a reach-through from two sloping edges, either footless or with a really high Egyptian. I chose to do it footless and for the first 10 days failed because it was too hot. I reckon this is the hardest section, about 8a boulder.

The dyno:
The move that made the route famous, because itís spectacular: a complete cut-loose dyno to a hold about two meters higher. Itís difficult mentally and requires good coordination, but easy compared to the previous move. I reckon 7a+ boulder.

The dyno from the monodoigt:
The other hard move: dyno from a left-foot smear and first joint rounded monodoigt to a rounded hold. 8a boulder.

The final roof:
Eight easy moves compared to the rest of the route, but youíre very tired at this point. I told myself that it was impossible to fall from these last moves. This wasnít the case.
« Last Edit: April 28, 2010, 12:16:42 pm by GCW »

dave

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#1192 Re: significant repeats
April 28, 2010, 12:19:02 pm
I thought the thing with Hugh was that it was a series of massive dynos and it was said at the time that you needed to be FR size to do the route.

FR is about 5'9.

Stubbs

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#1193 Re: significant repeats
April 28, 2010, 12:22:50 pm

FR is about 5'9.

Word. The article that did a lot to dispell the myths about him http://www.climbing.com/exclusive/features/fredrouhling/index.html

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nik at work

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#1195 Re: significant repeats
April 28, 2010, 12:44:31 pm
That looks well Chevy Nova.

Plattsy

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#1196 Re: significant repeats
April 28, 2010, 12:56:27 pm
Pardon my ignorance. Is Hugh artificial?

Ru

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#1197 Re: significant repeats
April 28, 2010, 12:57:45 pm
Patter did indeed do it off this hold but remember the hold above (the better one) didn't used to be better. You could only do a  2 finger crimp on the spike as a gaston. Something fell off making it a bigger meaning you can now use 4 fingers and a thumb on the spike.

When I first did PUTP a long time ago I did it crimping the spike as a gaston as you describe - since doing it again I could never work out why I used that sequence so it makes sense that something has changed a bit.

Pardon my ignorance. Is Hugh artificial?

I think some of it is.

Stubbs

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#1198 Re: significant repeats
April 28, 2010, 01:01:25 pm
Quote
When Rouhling returned from college in 1993 he was sick of the technical endurance style that had made French sport climbing famous. Tired of using his feet, he sought out — or created — routes at Eaux Claires that didn’t require them. The first was Hugh, a sixty-foot double-overhanging bulge (with the graffito “HUG” painted in four-foot-tall letters at its base). After his first ascent he felt that he had made the route too easy, so he filled in some holds, made others worse, and then climbed the route again, resulting in some incredible dynamic moves — and his most heavy-handed manufacturing job. He rated Hugh 9a (5.14d), at a time when there were two or three other 9a’s in the world.

from the above article.

Oh and I forgot to say chapeau to Stevie, would love to see a vid of his ascent, but I guess it's unlikely he had a camera crew in tow.

Plattsy

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#1199 Re: significant repeats
April 28, 2010, 01:08:07 pm
Merci and yup props to Stevie.

 

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