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significant repeats (Read 2439227 times)

nik at work

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#1000 Re: significant repeats
March 18, 2010, 09:08:27 pm
Cheers for the link Tanners.

Crikey indeed.

monkey boy

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#1001 Re: significant repeats
March 18, 2010, 11:16:24 pm
Mina did Lou Ferrino today!

220bpm

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#1002 Re: significant repeats
March 19, 2010, 03:14:20 pm
Seconded.

8a+
Gecko
Partage

8a
tigre et dragon         
partenaire particular       
big dragon              
karma             
synapses       
l'aplait du gain    
l'apparemment       
la batard       
le mandarin             
direct du surplomb          
surplomb de la mee               
t-rex assis       
atresie

7c+
supplament d'armes assis       
megalithe       
appartenance assis       
hypothese       
antithese          
control technique

7c
michel-ange                      
control a               
flagrand desir       
appartenance       
vandale             
la gaul          
big boss       
tristesse
[/quote]

Wow, don't hear of many repeats of PP! Cap duly doffed.

What up with La Merveille as well? One of the best lines I've seen yet not climbed by many it seems.

andy_e

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#1003 Re: significant repeats
March 19, 2010, 03:21:08 pm
might that be because it's fugging hard?  ;)

neil h

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#1004 Re: significant repeats
March 19, 2010, 06:02:51 pm
i got up the mervielle yesterday, admittedly by the 7a slab to the right of it  :P

Sloper

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#1005 Re: significant repeats
March 19, 2010, 08:49:34 pm
Is that the highball or the groove thing to the left of the dalle du fer which is 7c but looks 6c?

Paul B

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#1006 Re: significant repeats
March 19, 2010, 11:56:15 pm
might that be because it's fugging hard?  ;)

Great line, since the breakage of a hold don't you need to pull on a minging crimp?

Adam Lincoln

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#1007 Re: significant repeats
March 22, 2010, 11:52:58 am
I did the first ascent since the hold breakage of Manchester Dogs today. Its not changed the grade i don't think,  probably still  V11? :shrug:  but you have to use a heel to do the move to flat hold at top now as you can't get a good enough drop knee in anymore.

Finally got round to uploading a pic from this. You can see the jug at the start is now broke. Was a tad green so looks a bit grim, but it is a great problem!


Doylo

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#1008 Re: significant repeats
March 22, 2010, 11:54:21 am
Oh. thats not a crimp with your left hand is it?

Adam Lincoln

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#1009 Re: significant repeats
March 22, 2010, 11:58:49 am
Oh. thats not a crimp with your left hand is it?

You put your heel on the crimp,so have to go from the hold i have my left on.

slackline

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#1010 Re: significant repeats
March 22, 2010, 11:59:47 am
You look like you need a holiday to top up the tan Adam.

chillax

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#1011 Re: significant repeats
March 22, 2010, 12:30:37 pm
Harry Fogg did (CJD's?) Dutch Gold in Glendo on saturday in about 3 or 4 go's. Not the biggest number, but 8a's don't get done in Ireland too often. Waddage.

c.j.d.

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#1012 Re: significant repeats
March 22, 2010, 01:06:09 pm
Cool.  Does he live over there?  If so, he should get on the full deal.  Its fucking cracker jack.

chillax

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#1013 Re: significant repeats
March 22, 2010, 01:12:37 pm
Yep, he's a home grown mutant  :) Shit, I can't even imagine starting any lower! I'm sure he'll have a look though, he's done almost everything else in the valley.

Ethan

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#1014 Re: significant repeats
March 23, 2010, 03:33:10 pm
8A flash by Natalija Gros  :bow:

Confessions d'un Artiste de Merde

http://philipperibiere.blogspot.com/2010/03/flashed-8a-by-natalija-gros.html

Stubbs

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#1015 Re: significant repeats
March 23, 2010, 04:24:48 pm
Or Confessions of a Crap Artist for the non French amongst us ;)


Nike Air

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#1016 Re: significant repeats
March 24, 2010, 04:36:57 pm
Pete Whittaker repeated Jordans French Duke (E9) the other day.

Petes ascent

Sloper

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#1017 Re: significant repeats
March 24, 2010, 08:46:46 pm
That looked at least well quite hard.

PS Maybe a change of user name might be a good idea?

Adam Lincoln

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#1018 Re: significant repeats
March 24, 2010, 08:54:19 pm
PS Maybe a change of user name might be a good idea?

Because?

GCW

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#1019 Re: significant repeats
March 24, 2010, 08:55:07 pm
"Adam Lincoln" is sooooo last year, dahling.

Sloper

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#1020 Re: significant repeats
March 24, 2010, 09:05:54 pm
PS Maybe a change of user name might be a good idea?

Because?

Nike are notoriously litigous.  Any way what about Robert Kilroy Lincoln? :P

Adam Lincoln

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#1021 Re: significant repeats
March 24, 2010, 09:07:30 pm
PS Maybe a change of user name might be a good idea?

Because?

Nike are notoriously litigous.  Any way what about Robert Kilroy Lincoln? :P

Some how, i don't think Nike would waste their time.  :-\

Paul B

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#1022 Re: significant repeats
March 24, 2010, 09:08:57 pm
Yeah just do it

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#1023 Re: significant repeats
March 24, 2010, 10:33:50 pm
Interesting that he chose to use the tensioned sling instead of all the gear in the slot, why was that??

Impressive stuff, confirms it as a major route.

Adam Lincoln

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#1024 Re: significant repeats
March 24, 2010, 10:41:03 pm
Interesting that he chose to use the tensioned sling instead of all the gear in the slot, why was that??

Quote from Jordan

"He chose to try the sling because he had tested the gear I used on the first ascent (out right, where I originally started FD) and it had exploded spectacularly when he rested on it. Uh-oh! Anyhow, he climbed up and placed his sling and some VERY low cams, down climbed, and then had to sit out a rain shower."

 

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