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significant repeats (Read 2473258 times)

north_country_boy

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#825 Re: significant repeats
November 29, 2009, 06:39:44 pm
A fantastic effort and the 1st repeat in about 10 years or so. The last person to do it was Steve Mac and it's had some high calibre flung at it since without success.

Didn't Simpson do it?

Doylo

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#826 Re: significant repeats
November 29, 2009, 06:53:58 pm
Footage of pascal trying it last week:


Simpson did it in 2005 i think.
Smit reckons 8c+ and he should know, he's pretty good at the tor, hard 8c's and Kaabah (8c+),Hooligan,  SB/PUTP etc..
 :bounce:

Adam Lincoln

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#827 Re: significant repeats
November 29, 2009, 07:05:23 pm
Pic of an attempt last week.

TomP

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#828 Re: significant repeats
November 30, 2009, 09:27:14 am
Peckett did cherry falls yesterday at almscliff, probably the only dry place in england!!

Was sweet!

Mina has done le piller (another 8a) to!

Both beasts!

Oh dear Dave, you spelt my name wrong and how long have I known you? I'll forgive you I suppose. Good to see you at the weekend

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#829 Re: significant repeats
November 30, 2009, 12:19:49 pm
Nice to see some Evolution footage. Awesome stuff (and obviously 8c+).

T_B

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#830 Re: significant repeats
November 30, 2009, 12:58:06 pm
Didn't Jerry give it F8c+ originally? And it got downgraded to F8c? Or am I getting mixed up with Progress. Cool vid footage.

Doylo

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#831 Re: significant repeats
November 30, 2009, 01:45:14 pm
Didn't Jerry give it F8c+ originally? And it got downgraded to F8c? Or am I getting mixed up with Progress. Cool vid footage.

I think he gave them both 8c+, then they came down to 8c and now there back up to 8c+ (Progress lost holds though). And Liquid Ambar's probably 8c+ on the quiet (no upgrade here though). Legend !!!!!

cowboyhat

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#832 Re: significant repeats
December 01, 2009, 12:00:10 pm
Unsurprising awesome despatch from Ryan.

Was chatting to Steve (the only man who knows), about grades specifically at the Tor and Evolution being 8c isn't consistent with the rest of the routes, MIF, the Extentions, StaminaPump etc. - 'only Nick thought it was 8c because he did it quickly and for some reason that opinion stuck'.

Doylo

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#833 Re: significant repeats
December 01, 2009, 12:12:29 pm
Well if Smit and Mcclure both reckon 8c+ then 8c+ it is. Hasn't one of the holds crumbled slightly since the early repeats also?

The Sausage

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#834 Re: significant repeats
December 01, 2009, 12:27:27 pm
Unsurprising awesome despatch from Ryan.

Was chatting to Steve (the only man who knows), about grades specifically at the Tor and Evolution being 8c isn't consistent with the rest of the routes, MIF, the Extentions, StaminaPump etc. - 'only Nick thought it was 8c because he did it quickly and for some reason that opinion stuck'.

Only Nic, the world's most prolific undergrader.

Johnny Brown

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#835 Re: significant repeats
December 01, 2009, 06:21:55 pm
Coming to a mountain near you soon, runaway winner of '09 Outside-the-box award, its The Big Fight Alpine style:

Simpson vs Steck

cofe

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#836 Re: significant repeats
December 01, 2009, 06:22:54 pm
that is well outside the fucking box.

dave

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#837 Re: significant repeats
December 01, 2009, 07:05:18 pm
are you guys the crew?

north_country_boy

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#838 Re: significant repeats
December 01, 2009, 07:11:05 pm
Unsurprising awesome despatch from Ryan.

Was chatting to Steve (the only man who knows), about grades specifically at the Tor and Evolution being 8c isn't consistent with the rest of the routes, MIF, the Extentions, StaminaPump etc. - 'only Nick thought it was 8c because he did it quickly and for some reason that opinion stuck'.

Only Nic, the world's most prolific undergrader.

The rumour Mill spun a more elaborate explanation to me. That Nic downgraded Evolution to 8c, as Jerry had 'stolen' progress from him at Kilnsey, knowing full well it was his Project??

However don't take that as gospel.... :-\

Andy Harris

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#839 Re: significant repeats
December 01, 2009, 09:36:35 pm
Nic did it from the block at the bottom on day 2. He thought the French 6c link into this from the bottom would be a formality but it took him another 4 days. Malc did in an extreemly hot summer and the  concensus was 8c. I think Nic was probably at his peak and this suited him to the ground and 8c+ it always was. He probably rated it against LA which he thought was desparate and thought he just simply didn't have the power for.

Kingy

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#840 Re: significant repeats
December 01, 2009, 10:18:22 pm
More info on Progress relevant in the context of the grade of Evolution.

From High Mag Sept 95 Rock Notes which I have just dug out of storage (paraphrased):

Progress was first equipped and subsequently abandoned by Paul Ingham. Nic and Tony Mitchell had been vying for the prize of climbing this 'open project'. Jerry asked Nic if the project was open and having gained the relevant 'consent' set about climbing the line with an efficiency which must have made Nic and Tony, both of whom had made great progress on the line in their 2 years of attempts, want to hang up their boots. 

I guess this is what was reported at the time although the reality may have been different, who knows?

Jaspersharpe

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#841 Re: significant repeats
December 02, 2009, 08:39:14 am
Coming to a mountain near you soon, runaway winner of '09 Outside-the-box award, its The Big Fight Alpine style:

Simpson vs Steck

Blimey. And I see from the Cocktalk thread that it's all Grimer's fault.

SA Chris

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#842 Re: significant repeats
December 02, 2009, 09:20:53 am
runaway winner of '09 Outside-the-box award

Was that deliberate? If so, nice.

Doylo

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#843 Re: significant repeats
December 03, 2009, 12:39:07 pm
Mina ticks Fake Pamplemousse at Brione 8a.  For me this is amazing and by far the most impressive and probably hardest thing she's done. The other stuff she's done are hard but it didn't surprise me that she'd ticked them having very strong fingers.  Stuff like Teamwork and Le Pilier see female ascents evrry winter.  This however is pure burl, every move is pretty hard with the crux first move being burly as hell.  It was enough to stop Smitton in his tracks when i was there with him.     :bow: :bow: :bow: :bow: :bow: :bow: :bow:

What a beast!

Somebody's Fool

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#844 Re: significant repeats
December 03, 2009, 08:12:31 pm
Coming to a mountain near you soon, runaway winner of '09 Outside-the-box award, its The Big Fight Alpine style:

Simpson vs Steck

Do you need 'elmet for the Eiger?

monkey boy

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#845 Re: significant repeats
December 04, 2009, 12:39:09 pm
Mina ticks Fake Pamplemousse at Brione 8a.  For me this is amazing and by far the most impressive and probably hardest thing she's done. The other stuff she's done are hard but it didn't surprise me that she'd ticked them having very strong fingers.  Stuff like Teamwork and Le Pilier see female ascents evrry winter.  This however is pure burl, every move is pretty hard with the crux first move being burly as hell.  It was enough to stop Smitton in his tracks when i was there with him.     :bow: :bow: :bow: :bow: :bow: :bow: :bow:

What a beast!

Aye this is an impressive send! Very burly, not a female style at all.Be interesting to know if it has had any other female ascents.

Mina text me when she did it saying that it was her favourite tick of the trip!

Bonjoy

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#846 Re: significant repeats
December 04, 2009, 01:53:20 pm
Racist!

Sloper

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#847 Re: significant repeats
December 04, 2009, 02:28:59 pm
Tourettes!

(is this a new game?)

Houdini

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#848 Re: significant repeats
December 05, 2009, 06:58:41 am
Y*d!

(*f you w*nt)

Will Hunt

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#849 Re: significant repeats
December 05, 2009, 06:34:17 pm
Watched Justin someone-or-other (from Lincolnshire, ginger hair & beard. Second name might have something to do with Plum?) do Demon Wall Roof Footless today. Hand in the juggy thing in the roof. Left hand to the lip. Right hand to the crimp. Matched and went. Made it look piss. Was supposed to be unrepeated.
 :bow:


BTW DWR with feet is unjustifiable but I can do Pebble Wall again which I haven't done for a while.

 

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